outdoors4evr
501 Club
The factory 3-point unit is cat1. Those arms are just really long, effectively reducing the lifting capacity of the 3-point.Stevos_loboy":11m47gyc said:
to buy or not to buy
- Thread starter Stevos_loboy
- Start date
Stevos_loboy
Active member
Sooooooo, I ended buying a 154 from a younger fellow. It came with a 3 point hitch, 3260 mower deck and 54" snow/plow blade. The kid said he bought some stuff for it like ignition parts and fuel system components, but could not get it running. I brought it home to find out the timing at the distributor was off 90 degrees and the fuel lines needed to be re-installed correctly from the tank to the carb. Runs great and purrs like a kitten, BUT we have an oil leak from the rear main seal. BUMMER - so that task is next on the agenda. Now I'm following another post on this forum to read about the events needed to get that job done. Bottom line on this 1969 Lo-boy 154 = I feel it was worth the coin that I spent for the attachments and tractor together as a whole, since I can take care of most repairs needed to get this thing field ready. If you can't or are unable to make repairs on a project like this, don't bother. It can be worse than a high maintenance wife that says she went to a movie Saturday night when a parking ticket shows up in the mail the next day putting her parked in front of the Hilton! Just wanted to post an update on my progress regarding to "buy or not to buy"!
You just need to play with the hydraulics to see how they function. Install the mower deck before doing so. The hydraulic system is one way. You need implement weight to return, retract, the mid tractor cylinder. The 3-point will probably return by itself.
If you haven't done so, down load the manuals for the numbered Cubs.
Be sure to read the section in the operators manual on the hydraulics.
Nice looking tractor.
If you haven't done so, down load the manuals for the numbered Cubs.
Be sure to read the section in the operators manual on the hydraulics.
Nice looking tractor.
Stevos_loboy
Active member
Eugene, the unit pictured above is not the one I purchased. It was on my list of potential tractors to purchase but concluded it was way too far away from my location to consider! It is a nice looking tractor! Thanks for the suggestions concerning manuals.
I haven't had much time to mess around with it since we brought her home and she's still sitting on the trailer. Yesterday was a gorgeous day in Wisconsin so I decided to find some time to see if it would fire up without the assistance of a battery boost. So, after cracking the sediment bowl valve open, kicking the throttle up just a tad and engaging the choke ……….. hit the starter and botta bing botta bang … fired right up. Unfortunately that oil leak is a real spoiler of fun.
I did want to check the some other stuff out while it was running, such as hydraulics and coolant fluid (water at this point). No indications of leaks anywhere! So that was a pleasant surprise. However, when engaging the hydraulic lever the motor bogged down as if under major load. So with the mower deck NOT installed and the mid rockshaft cylinder fully extended I'm assuming I need down weight at the shaft to retract the cylinder, but how much weight is required to do this?
Also, the 3 point hitch should respond to hydraulic commands, but come to find out there is a stay bar installed just to the right of the rear hydraulic cylinder preventing actuation of the 3ph. This bar seems to wedged in tightly and could not be removed easily and I'm not sticking my fingers in there! I couldn't find a large screw driver or crowbar at the time so maybe today if it doesn't rain I'll try to get that bar out of there and check the system again. How much weight is required to have the 3ph lower under its own gravitational pull? There is a draw bar mounted to the hitch presently.
I noticed in the picture of the mid cylinder that the steering rod has a slight bend in it ….. is this normal?
I realize how long winded I get when posting some of these comments so I apologize!
I haven't had much time to mess around with it since we brought her home and she's still sitting on the trailer. Yesterday was a gorgeous day in Wisconsin so I decided to find some time to see if it would fire up without the assistance of a battery boost. So, after cracking the sediment bowl valve open, kicking the throttle up just a tad and engaging the choke ……….. hit the starter and botta bing botta bang … fired right up. Unfortunately that oil leak is a real spoiler of fun.
I did want to check the some other stuff out while it was running, such as hydraulics and coolant fluid (water at this point). No indications of leaks anywhere! So that was a pleasant surprise. However, when engaging the hydraulic lever the motor bogged down as if under major load. So with the mower deck NOT installed and the mid rockshaft cylinder fully extended I'm assuming I need down weight at the shaft to retract the cylinder, but how much weight is required to do this?
Also, the 3 point hitch should respond to hydraulic commands, but come to find out there is a stay bar installed just to the right of the rear hydraulic cylinder preventing actuation of the 3ph. This bar seems to wedged in tightly and could not be removed easily and I'm not sticking my fingers in there! I couldn't find a large screw driver or crowbar at the time so maybe today if it doesn't rain I'll try to get that bar out of there and check the system again. How much weight is required to have the 3ph lower under its own gravitational pull? There is a draw bar mounted to the hitch presently.
I noticed in the picture of the mid cylinder that the steering rod has a slight bend in it ….. is this normal?
I realize how long winded I get when posting some of these comments so I apologize!
Attachments
One way hydraulic system. Pressure only when the system is in the lift or hold position. It doesn't take a lot of weight or pressure to retract the mid tractor cylinder or the 3-point.
Set and hold the hydraulic control lever in the down position. This will remove the fluid pressure on the cylinders.
Remove the 3-point locking bar and the 3 point should slowly drop on it's own.
To retract the center tractor cylinder. Hydraulic control lever in the down position, large wrench on one of the levers/arms lifting the mower. I use a very large Crescent style wrench when removing or installing the mower deck.
Set and hold the hydraulic control lever in the down position. This will remove the fluid pressure on the cylinders.
Remove the 3-point locking bar and the 3 point should slowly drop on it's own.
To retract the center tractor cylinder. Hydraulic control lever in the down position, large wrench on one of the levers/arms lifting the mower. I use a very large Crescent style wrench when removing or installing the mower deck.
outdoors4evr
501 Club
The steering rod is supposed to be straight. Once straightened, slide a piece of 1/2" black pipe over it.
Stevos_loboy
Active member
OK, thanks outdoors, I'll add that to the list!
Stevos_loboy
Active member
Eugene, is this procedure to be done while the motor is NOT running or does it matter?
"Set and hold the hydraulic control lever in the down position. This will remove the fluid pressure on the cylinders."
"Set and hold the hydraulic control lever in the down position. This will remove the fluid pressure on the cylinders."
outdoors4evr
501 Club
The engine must be running for the hydraulics to move. (up or down) If they do move without the engine running, then there is an issue with the system.
Stevos_loboy
Active member
There is a problem with the hydraulics! The hydraulic control with move back when pulled, but all it does is bogs the motor and doesn't create any action - mid and rear cylinders will not budge. I haven't had time to check the fluid level yet but did buy transmission/hydraulic fluid on my way home. The 1/2" pipe plug located on the rear plate of the transaxle is source to fill the level of the fluid, correct?
Correct.Stevos_loboy":144rm1ab said:
The hydraulic system on the numbered Cubs is one way. Meaning hydraulic pressure to extend the cylinder(s), implement weight to retract the piston.
If the cylinder(s) are already extended to the max, engine will bog down, and no movement of the cylinder. You will need some type of weight/force to retract the cylinder.
The hydraulic control lever will return to the center/off position when released - if that was your question.
Edit. Check the hydraulic fluid level. If you had/have a hydraulic fluid leak, it will drip all over the shop floor.
2nd edit. Check the hydraulic fluid level with the cylinder(s) retracted.
Stevos_loboy
Active member
Finally had time to get that stay bar out. Eugene, I'm not sure if my 154 being a 1969 model makes a difference, but the hydraulic control level can be moved out then pushes forward for what seems to be a "floating" effect for the cylinders, at least the rear cylinder - ? Found out the 3 point hitch works great but the mid lift cylinder seems to be locked up, won't budge!
Stevos_loboy
Active member
The hydraulic lift lever does not seem to operate as per the illustration on page 11 of the operator's manual. The first noticeable difference is the lever on the machine I'm working on does not have "the hydraulic control lever is spring loaded" other than what feels like the resistance of the spool valve itself. Lever positions feel like neutral, lift and float. To get the lever in the float position I have to pull the lever out away from the tractor then push forward to clear the bolt that is directly north of the lever pivot bushing. IS THERE SUPPOSED TO BE A PHYSICAL SPRING SOMEWHERE ON THE LEVER?
"There is a lock out on the left, mid tractor, for the hydraulics." I have pilfered through the manual and have not seen this feature. Please direct me to the page of the manual referring to this. The only thing I see at the rockshaft / cylinder area would be a mechanical lift limit bracket that has an adjusting bolt .
"There is a lock out on the left, mid tractor, for the hydraulics." I have pilfered through the manual and have not seen this feature. Please direct me to the page of the manual referring to this. The only thing I see at the rockshaft / cylinder area would be a mechanical lift limit bracket that has an adjusting bolt .
The lock out on the left mid tractor is called "adjusting screw". Page 11, illustration 11, Operator's Manual.
Look under the center of the tractor. If the hydraulic cylinder is extended you will need to retract it and then add weight to get it to work properly.
No spring on the control lever. You shouldn't have to pull the lever side ways to get the system in the raise position.
Check to see if someone hasn't replaced the bolt that is obstructing the lever action.
Look under the center of the tractor. If the hydraulic cylinder is extended you will need to retract it and then add weight to get it to work properly.
No spring on the control lever. You shouldn't have to pull the lever side ways to get the system in the raise position.
Check to see if someone hasn't replaced the bolt that is obstructing the lever action.
Stevos_loboy
Active member
Observations in my previous post were base on the movement of the rear cylinder for the 3PH, which seems to function fine! The mid lift cylinder must be locked in the extended position from surface rust on the cylinder piston rod, which I can't see and is on the back side of the rod facing away from my view. But I can feel the roughness with my fingers. Yesterday I sprayed the rod with Blaster and was able to buff most of the roughness off the rod with fine steel wool. I also tapped on the end of the rode with a hammer and a piece wood between but couldn't see any noticeable movement at the cylinder. If there is corrosion inside the cylinder, I wonder if the resistance between the seal and piston could be great enough to cause this. If I keep tapping the end of the rod I worry that the seal will be forced into the cylinder and destroy it.
The bolt head obscuring a smooth transaction to the float position is something I can live with, or replaced the hex head bolt with a button head, maybe?
The bolt head obscuring a smooth transaction to the float position is something I can live with, or replaced the hex head bolt with a button head, maybe?
Stevos_loboy
Active member
Tried to drive it off the trailer for the first since bringing it home and gears are grinding. Clutch is really buggered up. Time for a new clutch when we replace the rear main seal. We did get it off the trailer - 
Many times the rockshaft is stuck in place and the mid cylinder will not retract. Try removing the pin from the end of the cylinder that connects it to the rockshaft and see if you can move the rockshaft easily. If it's stuck, remove the two caps holding the rockshaft to the frame (where you see a grease fitting) and clean out all the old dried up grease.
The rockshaft must be free to pivot in order for the cylinder to retract.
Charlie
The rockshaft must be free to pivot in order for the cylinder to retract.
Charlie
Stevos_loboy
Active member
Thanks for the advise regarding the rockshaft Charlie, I'm glad I thought of it 
. I do believe this tractor had been sitting outside in the weather for an extended period of time without any intervention whatsoever. I will remove one of the pins securing the cylinder to the rockshaft and check it for movement, thanks again -
. I do believe this tractor had been sitting outside in the weather for an extended period of time without any intervention whatsoever. I will remove one of the pins securing the cylinder to the rockshaft and check it for movement, thanks again -