Time to Work on the Farmall Super C

cjet69

cjet69

501 Club
Our Farmall Super C started running bad last spring. It had a bad miss in it. We decided to park it until we had time to get to it. That time is here. I got it towed to the shop this evening and pushed it inside. Tomorrow I will start looking for the problem.

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Got out to the shop and pulled the hood, plugs, and valve cover. It didn't take long to find the problem. It has a stuck valve and a bent pushrod. Tried tapping on the valve and it won't move so its time to pull the head.

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Pulled the head to get a look inside. The #3 intake is stuck and #4 intake is sticky. All of the other valves are good. Still not sure what the problem is.

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Engine newby here following your progress...stupid question but when you say the intake is stuck....what are you looking at on the pictures to determine that? I am assuming it is every other valve hole on the lower part of the head in the picture? One hole is intake and one hole is exhaust? I have an SC with a smoking problem and I will have to do this at some point. John
 
Looks like 3 & 4 there is excessive pitting between the valves, head gasket blown or cracked head letting coolant in is my guess as to why the 3 & 4 valves were sticking/stuck.
 
ajhbike":rgdjhhx2 said:
When you say the intake is stuck....what are you looking at on the pictures to determine that?
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Bent push rod.

Just from looking at the photos, I would do some more investigation. But, at a minimum, in tractor overhaul.
 
I get that the push rod is bent...it is obvious. This was about the second set of pictures where he made the statement "The #3 intake is stuck and #4 intake is sticky" so I was asking HIM (2cubs) how he knew that.
 
ajhbike":2fu1hj1b said:
Engine newby here following your progress...stupid question but when you say the intake is stuck....what are you looking at on the pictures to determine that? I am assuming it is every other valve hole on the lower part of the head in the picture? One hole is intake and one hole is exhaust? I have an SC with a smoking problem and I will have to do this at some point. John
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On the valve with the bent pushrod I just tried pushing down on the rocker arm. When it didn't move I removed the rocker shaft assembly and tapped on the valve with a brass hammer. The valve springs are weak enough on these tractors that you should be able to push the valves open with just moderate pressure.

The valve's from front to rear (E=Exhaust, I=Intake) E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E . The front 2 cylinders share an intake port as do the rear 2 cylinders so the Intakes valve's are next to each other.
 
Shane N.":3a0q2aoh said:
Looks like 3 & 4 there is excessive pitting between the valves, head gasket blown or cracked head letting coolant in is my guess as to why the 3 & 4 valves were sticking/stuck.
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If I recall correctly, there was some pitting in #3-4 when this engine was rebuilt decades ago. Dad traded engines with his brother. Ours was a light smoker and his needed a full rebuild. When we opened this engine up we found the rust in the back 2 cylinders.

I'm going to pull the manifold today and get a good look in the ports. I was thinking along the same lines about an antifreeze leak. I'll get the head torn down and then get the big propane burner out to boil some soapy water and get it cleaned up good.
 
I soaked the stuck valve with some carb cleaner followed by some ATF/Acetone mix and let it soak overnight. After removing the valve springs I was able to tap the stuck valve out using a brass drift and ball peen. Once the valve started moving it came out without much effort. I found some black buildup on the stem that was slightly sticky feeling. It came right off with some carb cleaner and slides easily in the guide now. I don't find much wear or any galling on the stem or guide. So far no definitive answer on what cause it. On to the cleaning process.

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I thought I remembered seeing a valve grind gasket set for this engine. A little searching and I found it. Dad stopped at the local tractor salvage yard and they just gave him a pushrod. It larger diameter than the original, but looks like all of the replacements that you can buy new.

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I had to look up glyptal cause I wasn't sure what it was.


I have a question. You painted it first with 2150, then you went over it with glyptal, correct?

the glyptal I saw was a rusty red color. How did you keep yours so nice and red?

Also, one more question. When you painted the head, why not cover it with your valve cover to keep paint off the top. Wouldn't that have saved some clean up?

I only ask to learn, I'm not questioning your methods.
 
Hairy Moose Knuckles":ft2sl6ju said:
I had to look up glyptal cause I wasn't sure what it was.


I have a question. You painted it first with 2150, then you went over it with glyptal, correct?

the glyptal I saw was a rusty red color. How did you keep yours so nice and red?

Also, one more question. When you painted the head, why not cover it with your valve cover to keep paint off the top. Wouldn't that have saved some clean up?

I only ask to learn, I'm not questioning your methods.
Click to expand...

I only painted the glyptal under the valve cover directly on the cast iron. I didn't paint over any of the 2150 red on the outside. These tractors had a similar coating inside all of the engines, transmissions, and rear ends from the factory. Its suppose to improve oil flow across the cast iron and also will seal any porous spots.
 
Oh ok, makes total sense now. I'm not a painter except for a few pieces of furniture in chalk paint. Ive rattled canned a little, but don't know much about metal.

Btw, I'm sure enjoying your thread!
 
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