Super a engine

They will fit, basically the same block, just 10 more cu. in. on the Super C C-123 engine. Only problem you may have is the top radiator hose may be larger. Been so long, forget if the bottom one will fit with the water pump.
 
You can use the original Super A outlet elbow to solve the hose problem. If the Super A didn't have a water pump, you may loose the thermostat and need to deal with that.
 
Jim
Being the newbe that I am to the SA, could you explain the relationship with or without a water pump and a thermostat. From my thread on what block I have I also discussed having a condensation issue. My SA with the power unit block I do not have a waterpump or a thermostat and suspect that it is set up with the original water outlet elbow.

EDIT: Is it a case that without a water pump no thermostat (thermosyphon like a Model T), a thermostat with a waterpump?
 
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49willard said:
Jim
Being the newbe that I am to the SA, could you explain the relationship with or without a water pump and a thermostat. From my thread on what block I have I also discussed having a condensation issue. My SA with the power unit block I do not have a waterpump or a thermostat and suspect that it is set up with the original water outlet elbow.

EDIT: Is it a case that without a water pump no thermostat (thermosyphon like a Model T), a thermostat with a waterpump?
Click to expand...
As far as I know any thermosiphon cooling system will not have a water pump or thermostat unless it is something that was homebuilt. JMHO Stan
 
The thermosiphon system does not have a thermostat. It relies on the temperature difference between the engine and the radiator to create/regulate flow of coolant. When a water pump was added, a thermostat was added to control flow so the engine will get up to and stay at proper operating temperature. At the same time, the size of cooling passages in the head gasket were reduced. I presume to ensure that coolant would flow past the cylinders farthest away from the water pump.
 
Stan and Jim,
Thanks for your responses. It appears that I have a problem with condensation. Next time that I plow snow I will try to get inlet and outlet temps to the radiator with an infared gun and see if it is running too cool.
 
49willard said:
Stan and Jim,
Thanks for your responses. It appears that I have a problem with condensation. Next time that I plow snow I will try to get inlet and outlet temps to the radiator with an infared gun and see if it is running too cool.
Click to expand...
You may have to partly cover the radiator to get the engine operating temp up. There was a recent thread about this topic. Stan
 
Stan I did see that thread. When I finish plowing and put it in the barn after shutdown it gurgles a bit much like my Model T in similar situation. With the T I have a temp gage and it is at temp just prior to shutdown. So my assumption was the SA was at temp at shutdown, need to measure.
 
FWIW my 100 motor never gets out of the green in the summer time when mowing it may get into the upper green. What your describing is what the Cub does.
 
Well I had a minor snowplowing with the SA this AM. At the end of plowing with the engine running I removed the radiator cap and shot the water temp at the top of the radiator with my infared gun. The temp of the water was just under 150 degrees. Outside temp was just about 32 degrees F. So it looks like I need to partially block the front of the grill as the engine is running a bit too cool and may be the reason that I see some "chocolate milk in the rather long dipstick tube.
Has anyone added a temp gage to a 113 or 123 engine without a water pump? On my model T I added a temp sensor in the bottom of the water inlet neck to the radiator which is also thermosiphon.
 
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