Splitting Tractor/Clutch Again

  • Thread starter Thread starter BA
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BA

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OK - back after a few days off here and I am coming to the realization that to do the job of painting and moreso figuring out what's wrong with my clucth I may be faced with splitting the tractor. I can get my hand in the hole, but there it ends - just don't have the dexterity with my larger hands to do anything once I get in there.

I have two local tractor shops that will do the job - split, fix the clutch etc. but they are outrageous on price which includes them trailering the tractor to their shops - just labor, not parts if any are needed. One of the shops I don't like on general principal and the other is just too expensive.

I have the clutch with 1" of freeplay as specified unless it moved the first time i hit the pedal. When I first bought the cub quite a few years ago, it was taken apart by a qualified mechanic, set to specification and was fine for quite a while.

Symptoms - when I used it for the first time this year, it went into gear smoothly, but when I pushed the clutch in to stop, it just kept on going. I popped it out of gear to stop, checked the freeplay which was off some and adjusted. Got better, but it grinds when I put it in gear and when I try to stop, it will do so and smoothly if I keep the pedal about an inch or so off the stop (really hard to gauge whenyour sitting in the seat). If I go any further than that, it chatters and I can feel something grabbing. I've seen the pictures and looked in the hole and everything looks fine visually. Could this just be a free play issue and is there something else beyond pedal location I should be looking at? You just loosen the bolt holding the pedal in place and move the pedal, right? How would I do a "reset" and start over from the beginning assuming I may have adjusted the freeplay in the pedal incorrectly?

Soooo - the question becomes...

Without a garage or barn to hoist things up with, how does one go about safely splitting the tractor? Obviously I would like to avoid having to even attempt this because it's sounding kinda inherently unsafe given my situation.

Thanks, folks. I await the outpouring of wisdom :) :)
 
BA:

Hopefully this might help you with your clutch. From my limited experience with Ellie, your problem sounds similar. I am not familiar with the freeplay issue on the pedal travel, but I think the adjustment procedure you stated is correct.

As for the grinding, well here is the link to the thread on that thar subject! That Special Feeling.

I also have huge mitts, but they do fit and the job can be done without splitting the tractor. It took less than 1/2 an hour if I remember correctly.

As for splitting the tractor

Without a garage or barn to hoist things up with, how does one go about safely splitting the tractor?
Click to expand...

I also do not have anywhere to install a block and tackle or a chain hoist etc., so I built a pair of jack stands. Even with my VERY limited welding ability, it wasn't too hard. If you visit this link - Jethro, you can get a feel for the jack stands. If I remember correctly it was less than $30.00 worth of steel and such to build the stands. Measurements are not there nor is detailed drawings, but by measuring the distance from the ground to your mounting pads, it will work out quite well.

Hope this helps a bit.
 
DOH! Jack stands and I don't even hafta know how to weld - I work in the food business and I know plenty of fabricators, can probably lay my hands on some roller conveyors and make things really slick and easy. That would work great if I hafta go that route, but looks like I might not have to with a little more patience and less of the "OK, got my hand stuck in there now what the heck do I do" mentality. The link certainly helps - I stumbled across that diagram before I'd joined up here.

Thanks SO much!!!
 
BA,
I have spit my 48 several times, working on several times, but not the clutch. I do not have a fancy shop or a lift. I bolt two 2x8s on the impliment mounting holes, right below the clutch. Then I use a hydraulic jack and lift the
tactor up just to the frount of where it bolts to the transmission. After it is up
a little then on bolt the 2x8s on and let it back down on to the boards. Then you can unbolt it and seperate the rear by rolling it back. Tranmission should
be in neutral. I usually get some help when I roll it back. Be carefull not to bend the drive shaft. When it is about five feet apart you can block it in place,
supporting the rear end. Also block the wheels on the front, before you seperate. I have left my tractor like this for several weeks while I want on parts. Putting it back together can be tough. It is difficult to line up the drive
shaft into the clutch, just be patient and work it around and it will line up and
go into the clutch. Good luck.
 
5- 4x4s 2- 2x6s come along dr power wagon


1212858MVC-139L(Small).JPG
 
Bruce

That were i put my money
then my wife is right when she tell me I am p!** it away on cubs
This is were I get in trouble for leaving the seat up
1213226MVC-730X(Small).JPG
 
Can ya'll get that jumbo-sized WD-40 in a six pack???

Might could come in handy, don't ya think?? :wink:
 
BA:

Before you go the trouble of splitting the tractor, be sure you really need to. When you push in the clutch and the tractor doesn't stop or the clutch doesn't release.... is it because the pressure plate isn't moving away from the flywheel enough, or is the clutch disk sticking to the flywheel?

Lay under the inspection hole and with your arm, or have some else push the clutch in and out and watch the action of the pressure plate movement. See if when the pedal is pushed all the way down if the TO bearing is hitting the release fingers? With the pedal pushed all the way down, you should be able to make the disk move with some force from a screwdriver.

If the clutch disk is merely stuck to the flywheel, probably from sitting a long time with some oil on the surface (acts like glue), then you can burn that off with some carefully applied clutch abuse.

If the pressure plate isn't moving enough, then adjustments on your release fingers or your pedal is necessary. All of this assumes that nothing is bent or worn out.

Look it over and get back to us and we'll give you something else to do, hehe. Good luck,
 
Well, ya might be giving me a bunch of stuff to do, but at least there's some options. I'll enslave my boy this weekend assuming we don't get the hurricane and see what's to be seen in there. Honestly based on car experience, it doesn't feel like it is sticking - believe me, I know how to apply calculated clutch abuse - could be, just doesn't ring that particular bell. The feeling is more like something is out of adjustment (I'd assume the fingers in my ample ignorance), but my initial thought was that the throwout bearing is toast. Ya'll must know that feeling - awww %^@&, it's a hard part to get at and fix, but that's a total gut reaction. I am trusting that the very experience mechanic who did split the thing and replaced all of the bucket o' parts he dropped off used the correct TB and adjusted things properly to start with about 12 years ago and it was fine for a very long time, maybe a tiny bit of a grind once in a while after sitting.

Honestly, I don't spend a whole lot of time working on the tractor (I know that is a major magnitude sin and will earn me the wrath of the group :roll: ) with everything going on these days. But I am getting to the point now where I can use a recreational project and this fits the bill perfectly since the machine does get used for a variety of things and it won't be just for enjoyment at the end of the road.

So I'd best find some batteries for the flashlight, find a dry spot in the yard and have at 'er...

Thanks all :D
 
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