I've been wanting a 122 for a while now. I located one earlier this year that I couldn't make the right deal on, but now I found this one, and my offer was accepted. PO says it hasn't ran for two years, but it did when he parked it. She's uglier than a mud fence, but that's only skin deep.
Somebody Stop Me!
- Thread starter Zorro
- Start date
I've been wanting a 122 for a while now. I located one earlier this year that I couldn't make the right deal on, but now I found this one, and my offer was accepted. PO says it hasn't ran for two years, but it did when he parked it. She's uglier than a mud fence, but that's only skin deep.OK. I'll take it off your hands and use it for a parts tractor.
Parts are readily available. The most expensive item to repair will probably the mower deck.
I have 3 working ready narrow framed Cub Cadet and a 122 parts tractor sitting in the corner. My 122 has a rear PTO shaft and shift lever. I'm hanging onto it for spare transmission, differential parts for my standard Cub.
Parts are readily available. The most expensive item to repair will probably the mower deck.
I have 3 working ready narrow framed Cub Cadet and a 122 parts tractor sitting in the corner. My 122 has a rear PTO shaft and shift lever. I'm hanging onto it for spare transmission, differential parts for my standard Cub.
ricky racer
501 Club
Where I come from, if you make an offer and it's accepted, it's yours....
Well, of course it's mine, and I'm looking forward to working on it. I think for now that getting it running will be the first priority. At least then I'll know if it needs engine work. It's not going to be a parts machine, it's too complete for that. The unfortunate thing is that with ten other machines, I've run out of indoor storage. It'll be home sometime today, so more pics to follow.
Happy 2017!!!!
Happy 2017!!!!
I would pull the motor first and set it on the bench.
First thing, my opinion, is to work on is the steering and clutch/brake linage. Lot easier with out the engine in the way.
If you have questions on taking out the slop in the steering arm to spindle, Bran Mueller has a neat, inexpensive fix.
Edit: The name might be Brain Miller, he has a lot of links on the internet.
First thing, my opinion, is to work on is the steering and clutch/brake linage. Lot easier with out the engine in the way.
If you have questions on taking out the slop in the steering arm to spindle, Bran Mueller has a neat, inexpensive fix.
Edit: The name might be Brain Miller, he has a lot of links on the internet.
You're absolutely right about the steering. This one has enough slop for ten tractors< :mrgreen: I have a 125 that was sloppy like this, and I decided to try placing a little weld inside the spindle bolt hole, then drilling it out with the correct size bit. It worked, but it was trickier to drill than I thought it would be even with a drill press. I think boring out the hole, then putting a sleeve would work, but I will definitely check Miller's method.Eugene":1w4yupmw said:
Anyway; it's home now and it looks a lot better than I imagined it would.
I sprayed some carb cleaner into it, and the engine fired and ran for a few seconds. I'll go through the fuel system, change the oil, and check the other lubricants then I should be able to run this 122. I already have a K321 on my workbench awaiting a piston and rings, so I won't be taking this engine out right away. Sorry, no pics just yet.
Heck, nobody needs to stop me, this is the only Cub I've bought all year, so I think I've shown remarkable restraint. :mrgreen:
I ordered some metric dowel pins and reamer for the spindle hole.
Btw, every used cub cadet I had has a blown head gasket. It's the first thing I do is to pull the head, make sure both valves work, clean the carbon in the ex port, lube both valve guides and put the new headgasket in it.
Btw, every used cub cadet I had has a blown head gasket. It's the first thing I do is to pull the head, make sure both valves work, clean the carbon in the ex port, lube both valve guides and put the new headgasket in it.