Snow plow

R

RogerDoger

New member
I have a ‘49 and found someone with the snowplow attachment. I’m looking for advice on approximate value if it has everything as apposed to missing bolts. Also any advice on winterizing the Cub. Thanks all!
 
Depending on the availability of Cub implements where you are, I've seen them go from $150-$400. You might want to print off a parts diagram from the manual, or from TM Tractor that has the parts laid out on a pallet. Take it with you to make sure you get everything. Sometimes pieces get left on the tractor it was taken off of. The 54-A is the most desirable, you probably don't want the leveling/grader blade (earliest version) if you plan on using it.
 
Bob
What is wrong with the early leveling/grading blade? I've been using one for over 45 yrs and never had a problem either in front or underneath. Works great, and l only have a hand lift, no TC.
 
k hutchins":1zmd5fky said:
Bob
What is wrong with the early leveling/grading blade? I've been using one for over 45 yrs and never had a problem either in front or underneath. Works great, and l only have a hand lift, no TC.
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Edit: Somehow my reply didn't post. I just think the 54 and 54-A are beefier in the blade "wishbone" and lift arms. Not to say the early version doesn't work, but IH must have had some concerns or complaints that motivated the design changes.
 
k hutchins":1zlue1j9 said:
Bob
What is wrong with the early leveling/grading blade? I've been using one for over 45 yrs and never had a problem either in front or underneath. Works great, and l only have a hand lift, no TC.
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I agree. I used the early version for years with no problems. I've upgraded to a 54A only because one fell in my lap.
 
k hutchins":12c3j0ng said:
Bob
What is wrong with the early leveling/grading blade? I've been using one for over 45 yrs and never had a problem either in front or underneath. Works great, and l only have a hand lift, no TC.
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They work just fine, but having to remove a nut and bolt to change angle raqther than just dropping in a pin, along with only having 3 holes for blade pitch, make the later ones more desirable.
 
Thanks for that input John. Having never used a 54 or 54a, l never knew what difference there was. Yes pulling a nut and bolt to change the angle is a pain, especially if you're knee deep in snow. It can also be a pain lining the holes back up to re-incert. My solution, l never change the angle, it's always tipped farthest to the right. It works for me, and after 45 yrs l've learned to work with my set up.
Just goes to show, what's good for one doesn't always work for everyone.
 
I use a 54A. As already stated, you can change the angle by just pulling a pin. However, it does require getting off and on the tractor. So I almost never change the angle, it's always tipped farthest to the right. Occasionally it would work better in another position, but not enough better to get off the tractor.

When I belly mount it to do grading, I do use different angles. For that, I find the early blade really inconvenient.
 
Winterizing-6 volt? 5W-20 in the crankcase, 90 octane ethanol-free fuel, always fill your fuel tank after your job, once it cools down, to minimize condensation in fuel tank. Some Heet (red bottle) in the tank before the daybreak temp consistently drops to 32 F or less is a good plan. Good battery, with a trickle charger hooked up between uses is never a bad idea. Wheel weights and chains are a must. A 5-10 minute warm up helps maximize power before you plow. Work within your machine's limitations, raise the blade before you hit the snow bank. If necessary, use less than a full blade to push snow. Set your blade to 'curl' snow to minimize overflow over the top of the blade. Adjust your skid shoe height according to the surface you're plowing. There it is.
 
I always had the plow to the right also but in doing so wasted half a trip since my drive is too steep to plow up hill. I was one of the early adopters of the hydraulic blade conversion. Really made a difference,it was actually fun to plow. Somewhere here Rudi posted my write up. I'll bet the photobucket pictures are all messed up now. All these years later though I found an even better way to deal with the snow and that is go to Florida from November til May. After being outside my whole working career can't honestly say I miss it.
 
TallCoolOne58

I agree with everything you stated. Good info for some of the novice 1st time snowplowers.
Warm up is criticle, as well as not biting off more than you can chew. I've seen posts on here where members have their Cub confused with a bulldozer. The only full width push l make is the first one, and even then, if the snow is too deep l leave the blade "up" so l don't bite off too much.
I hope this info helps others.
 
Here are a few more suggestions on plowing technique.

1) Try to not let the task get out of hand. I usually wait for it to stop snowing before I plow. But if it has accumulated a large amount (8 or 10 inches) with no end to the storm in sight, I'll go do it during the storm. I think I did that once last winter.

2) Push the snow far enough from the area you are clearing so there is room for the NEXT snowfall. Remember that you will probably be storing that snow pile for the rest of winter and you will have another pile from the next storm.

3) Know which way your prevailing wind comes from. Pile your snow DOWNWIND of your drive. Next time you have wind blown snow, your drive will only fill up to the depth of the snow on the upwind side. If the snow pile is upwind, your drive will fill up to the top of the snow pile.
 
Another helpful tip, as you are walking down your driveway, your mailbox should be on the left side at the end of your driveway. Otherwise, the road plow will fill the end of your driveway. This is more for after the storms when the crews are out pushing back the snowbanks with the big snow wings.
 
k hutchins":1k9v4thh said:
TallCoolOne58

I agree with everything you stated. Good info for some of the novice 1st time snowplowers.
Warm up is criticle, as well as not biting off more than you can chew. I've seen posts on here where members have their Cub confused with a bulldozer. The only full width push l make is the first one, and even then, if the snow is too deep l leave the blade "up" so l don't bite off too much.
I hope this info helps others.
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Thank you. Just practical advice. He asked, I answered.

We have bitter cold and snowy winters here. January temps to -20F, and snow. I NEED my machine to start, and run. I prepare for the worst, and hope for the best. Lots and lots of snow. Google Oswego County, NY average snowfall sometime when you're bored. For me, snow removal is not optional, it's essential.

I neglected to mention the importance of a properly maintained cooling system, with good fan belt, no cooling system leaks, and fresh antifreeze.
 
k hutchins":n9rvkpu8 said:
TallCoolOne58

I agree with everything you stated. Good info for some of the novice 1st time snowplowers.
Warm up is criticle, as well as not biting off more than you can chew. I've seen posts on here where members have their Cub confused with a bulldozer. The only full width push l make is the first one, and even then, if the snow is too deep l leave the blade "up" so l don't bite off too much.
I hope this info helps others.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Just some practical advice. I live in an area where snow removal is not optional, unless you like to walk, with bitter cold winter temps. I need to give my Cub every opportunity to 'succeed'.
 
One other suggestion is to add a plow extension to the top. This keeps the snow from piling up and spilling over the top of the blade. IH made a steel one and some of those may be out there if you can find one. Other folks use thick rubber like a cut up stall mat. I used 1/2" treated plywood and it lasted several years before I finally broke it off last winter. In the coming weeks, I'll cut and paint a new one.
 

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Urbish":japvryts said:
One other suggestion is to add a plow extension to the top. This keeps the snow from piling up and spilling over the top of the blade. IH made a steel one and some of those may be out there if you can find one. Other folks use thick rubber like a cut up stall mat. I used 1/2" treated plywood and it lasted several years before I finally broke it off last winter. In the coming weeks, I'll cut and paint a new one.
Click to expand...

Guess I'm fortunate. Mine has the steel one. Always assumed it was a standard feature. Learn something new every day.
 
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