Sickle mower restoration, some guidance please.

AndrewSpencer

Active member
Howdy all!
I drug the sickle mower out of the brush and now that I found a guy that does powder coating, my plan is to get to the restoration of the sickle.
So many questions.
And parts (other than the cutting surface) I should not powder coat?
What is that broken shaft looking thing? (The metal part)
Can some one please forward the link for the manual?
I was planning on all new cutting teeth and rivets, I understand there are advantages to the straight over the serrated? What are the pros and cons of each?

Any other words of wisdom?
Thanks!!
Andrew
 

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Parts are missing. But the only broken part I see is the wooden pitman. Follow the PDF manual link (in Quick Links above left) to the manuals.
 
Got the manual (apparently i had already downloaded it), thanks.
Found these other parts.

I know I have the pulley somewhere…

What else am I missing?
 

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Hi,
TM Tractor has a new wooden part of the pitman, if you need one.
Below is the listing, you can look at the pictures.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/sm/951fp.htm

I use serrated knives on my mower, they work good for the grass I have here.
Below is TM Tractor's page of mower parts, they have serrated knives, you can look at the pic.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/sm/sm_001newparts.htm

Below is a Cub 22 Mower operator's manual, it has info about cutter bar maintenance.
It is for 3 different mowers, for 3 different models of IH tractors, use the info for the Cub 22 Mower.

https://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cle ... index.html

It says on page 15 of the manual to only use the rectangular bar on the lift in one of the two holes, the other hole from where yours in your pic is. It affects the way the bar lifts.
That is near the inner end of the cutter bar.
Below is a pic from TM Tractor.

If the rear bracket looks like the one in the 2nd pic below, it is made to use the drawbar with the mower. The bracket has a spacer welded on it. :)
 

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I don't see:
- the shield for below the flywheel
- the outer grass board/rod
- the belt
- the upper pulley
- the upper belt guard.
The two front rockshafts are not part of the mower but the tractor needs one or the other to use the mower.
 
AndrewSpencer":2q852cj7 said:
And parts (other than the cutting surface) I should not powder coat?
What is that broken shaft looking thing? (The metal part)
Hi,
Many Cub 22 mowers were blue, before 1964, when the Cubs were made yellow and white.
You might be able to see the color it was on the side of the rear pulley facing ahead. Slide the bracket and shield ahead, and there may be paint on the pulley.
Spray cans of paint are probably easier to use on the mower.
The cutter bar can be painted. The bar on my mower came black.
The bar in the TM Tractor pics, one I posted above, looks black.

I don't know what you mean, or which part is the broken shaft thing.

In 1 of your pics you have the front rockshaft for a Cub with manual lift, it bolts on the clutch housing, it is shown in the mower operator's manual.
The other rockshaft looks like it is for a Touch Control, you don't need it if the Cub has no Touch Control.
 
Silly question: can I run the sickle in the verticle position? I.e. to trim the hedge rows that seem to make for great neighbors, but need to be pushed back a bit.
 
AndrewSpencer":2rvuqp81 said:
Silly question: can I run the sickle in the verticle position? I.e. to trim the hedge rows that seem to make for great neighbors, but need to be pushed back a bit.
Unfortunately, no
 
There can be a little angular variation in the horizontal cutting position if the cutterbar is tipped up or down.

But too much and your wooden pitman arm will break!

If you want to cut more vertical, you'll need a mower like a ih105.

file.php


You can read more about one here if you like!
https://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=33326
 
AndrewSpencer":3jgvypxb said:
Silly question: can I run the sickle in the verticle position? . . .
Specifications in the Owner's Manual say you can run 10 degrees above or below straight horizontal. I have found in practice that you don't want to go as much above as you can below.
 
I just made my best attempt to mount my sickle bar for my first time. 2½ hours and still not quite right. I guess I need to break down and look it up...
 
One of the most common problems with mounting a Cub-22 mower is the drag bar and support (bracket with the square shank and long heavy rod) goes in from the left side of the tractor. I’ve seen a lot of people try to put it in the right side.
 
Hi,
daviddakjr, the Cub 22 Mower operator's manual I posted on page 1 of this post, tells how to put the mower on a Cub, beginning on page 14.
The manual has info for 3 different mowers for 3 different models of IH tractors, some info is for all 3 mowers, and some is for a Cub, the pages say when info is for 1 mower.
If the front bracket at the clutch housing has holes with tapers, the mower should have the IH tapered head bolts. They help keep the mower in place, with the vibration it makes.
Tighten the mounting bolts tight, and check them often at first, they can vibrate loose.
Below is a listing at TM Tractor Parts for the bolts, you can look at the pics.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/gb/324fp.htm

The mower needs a longer bolt at the rear bracket, if it is the bracket like the pic I posted above.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/sp/445fp.htm

The mower is not hard to put on the Cub, it is easier if you have it in pieces, like the manual shows.
 
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