She's starving

kielhorn

kielhorn

Member
Good morning again. you all have been outstanding with responsiveness and accuracy. I really do hope there's some more youngsters (other than myself) around here to keep it going for years to come.

The other day I was running down my driveway and attempted to go into 3rd gear for the first time. Runs great in other gears at any idle.

Sputter and starvation is all she gave me... I installed a new sediment bowl (NAPA auto parts) as well as the zenith carb when I first started working on it. I did add an inline filter to combat fines in the fuel tank I couldn't get cleaned out-it'll work itself clean eventually.

So the question is, why would it stall out only in 3rd gear? Runs great at idle and in other gears. No equipment mounted front or rear.. I saw somewhere there might be a incomplete passage on the top front of the carb, but can't remember which carb that was referencing..
 
Have you done a compression check and adjusted the valves? 3rd gear is more of a 1 to 1 ratio so you get the benefit of the difference in the gear ration of 1st and 2nd to help out if the hp is weak. You might just have a tired engine that needs some love and attention. JMHO Stan
 
Even on flat road I have to ease out the clutch. I can pop the clutch in first and it half throttle and it’s fine but third is another beast. Have you tried messing with the choke while you’re letting the clutch out to see if there is any adjustments that need to be made?
 
kielhorn said:
Good morning again. you all have been outstanding with responsiveness and accuracy. I really do hope there's some more youngsters (other than myself) around here to keep it going for years to come.

The other day I was running down my driveway and attempted to go into 3rd gear for the first time. Runs great in other gears at any idle.

Sputter and starvation is all she gave me... I installed a new sediment bowl (NAPA auto parts) as well as the zenith carb when I first started working on it. I did add an inline filter to combat fines in the fuel tank I couldn't get cleaned out-it'll work itself clean eventually.

So the question is, why would it stall out only in 3rd gear? Runs great at idle and in other gears. No equipment mounted front or rear.. I saw somewhere there might be a incomplete passage on the top front of the carb, but can't remember which carb that was referencing..
Click to expand...

The undrilled port is a problem in some of the Chinese reproductions of the original IH branded Cub carburetor.
 
staninlowerAL said:
Have you done a compression check and adjusted the valves? 3rd gear is more of a 1 to 1 ratio so you get the benefit of the difference in the gear ration of 1st and 2nd to help out if the hp is weak. You might just have a tired engine that needs some love and attention. JMHO Stan
Click to expand...
not yet. i did a visual inspection when i had the head off last year (dropped the spark plug thread into the hole.. 1/10 would not recommend).

Compression test is on my list. i haven't had to adjust valves in 25 years.. Hopefully my book arrives today so i can read up on it. how difficult is it to just lap the valves on these?
jk
 
offrink said:
Even on flat road I have to ease out the clutch. I can pop the clutch in first and it half throttle and it’s fine but third is another beast. Have you tried messing with the choke while you’re letting the clutch out to see if there is any adjustments that need to be made?
Click to expand...
i'll try fiddling with the choke to see if it changes anything. Didn't even think of that-tanks
jk
 
kielhorn said:
not yet. i did a visual inspection when i had the head off last year (dropped the spark plug thread into the hole.. 1/10 would not recommend).

Compression test is on my list. i haven't had to adjust valves in 25 years.. Hopefully my book arrives today so i can read up on it. how difficult is it to just lap the valves on these?
jk
Click to expand...
I was primarily referring to manually adjusting the clearance, part of a recommend engine tuneup since they must be manually set. To lap the valves you will have to pull the head, unkey each one and go from there. Get your self a engine service manual, maybe one at the Resources link (top of this page). JMHO Stan
 
kielhorn said:
So the question is, why would it stall out only in 3rd gear?
Click to expand...
Hi,
The engine works harder to start the LoBoy moving in 3rd gear, than in the lower gears. If the engine is cold, it may need the choke partially on until the engine fully warms up.
The choke is used to enrich the mixture when the engine is cold, so the engine doesn't stall when a load is applied.

Adjusting the engine valves is in the operator's manual.
The valve clearance is manually adjusted, if nobody checks them, they can have the wrong clearance from wear.
Remove the valve cover on the left side of the engine to get to the valve adjustments.
You need a flat feeler gauge, and 2 open end wrenches to adjust the clearance.
I sent you a message, you get to it at the upper right of the page.
Below are pages from the 1965 Cub and LoBoy operator's manual telling how to adjust the valve clearance.
https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmal... Lo-Boy Operator's Manual 7-29-65/Page-41.jpg

https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmal... Lo-Boy Operator's Manual 7-29-65/Page-42.jpg

I would do all service work to the LoBoy shown in the operator's manual, before putting the loader on it, it's easier to replace the ignition points without the loader there.
I would check the ignition timing using a timing light also. It's important the timing is right so the engine has good power, and starts good. :)
 
kielhorn said:
not yet. i did a visual inspection when i had the head off last year (dropped the spark plug thread into the hole.. 1/10 would not recommend).

Compression test is on my list. i haven't had to adjust valves in 25 years.. Hopefully my book arrives today so i can read up on it. how difficult is it to just lap the valves on these?
jk
Click to expand...
When your book arrives, it may tell you to set the valves tighter but set them to .015”. Lots of us have experience with doing this. It works out well.
 
Thanks everyone for the replies and DM's. I have a hard copy of the 65 service manual (and a .pdf version). the manual I was waiting for was the LDR-F, which arrived this weekend, to accompany my .pdf version of the Loader 1000 as the installation is the next major task at hand.

I've done the ignition system (plugs, wires, points condenser), engine/trans/final drive oils, vinegar flushed the coolant system, washed the fuel tank, new carb, new strainer, added in-line fuel filter, replaced front and rear wiring harnesses, both battery cables.

While I was at the aunts house yesterday I snagged the 40 year old bucket of IH HyTran that's still 1/3 full. mainly grabbed it for the bucket lol, doubt I'll use the fluid. Also came across an old can of yellow bolts.. yep all stamped IH-mine.

Cubfriend said:
set them to .015”. Lots of us have experience with doing this
Click to expand...
good to know as the book lists .013

Glen said:
it's easier to replace the ignition points without the loader there
Click to expand...
makes sense. I think I mainly want to mock it up to ensure I have all necessary parts. All of the hoses are dried out so I've got some time before I can swing new ones.
 
Ashhh said:
I need a carburetor TSX156 at a decent price and I‘ve found this one. But the shipping is not covered.
www.fridayparts.com

Carburetor 352376R92 for IH-Farmall Tractor A AV B BN C Super

We have the best Carburetor for the right price. Maximize your Engine's performance. Click to order now!
www.fridayparts.com www.fridayparts.com
Any friends here have recommendatio? Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
That’s not for a Cub. I would personally opt for original replacement and post a want ad in the Vine. If you want to go aftermarket, there are posts here on the forum with the carbs they have used.
 
kielhorn said:
Thanks everyone for the replies and DM's. I have a hard copy of the 65 service manual (and a .pdf version). the manual I was waiting for was the LDR-F, which arrived this weekend, to accompany my .pdf version of the Loader 1000 as the installation is the next major task at hand.

I've done the ignition system (plugs, wires, points condenser), engine/trans/final drive oils, vinegar flushed the coolant system, washed the fuel tank, new carb, new strainer, added in-line fuel filter, replaced front and rear wiring harnesses, both battery cables.

While I was at the aunts house yesterday I snagged the 40 year old bucket of IH HyTran that's still 1/3 full. mainly grabbed it for the bucket lol, doubt I'll use the fluid. Also came across an old can of yellow bolts.. yep all stamped IH-mine.


good to know as the book lists .013


makes sense. I think I mainly want to mock it up to ensure I have all necessary parts. All of the hoses are dried out so I've got some time before I can swing new ones.
Click to expand...
Yes, I’ve seen .012,.013,.014 all listed as the adjustment for valve lash. I have done them at .015 and know other people that have with no issues. Good Luck, sounds like you have a lot of projects in the works.
 
tmays said:
That’s not for a Cub. I would personally opt for original replacement and post a want ad in the Vine. If you want to go aftermarket, there are posts here on the forum with the carbs they have used.
Click to expand...
That's a good idea, I'll try posting a want in the Vine. Thanks for the suggestion!
 
Waif said:
5

Thread 'The proper way to shift your Cub'

Hello,

Could someone please tell me, do you shift from gear to gear while Cub is in motion? Or can you go, for example, from a dead stop into 3rd gear without going through 1rst and 2nd?

Thanks
Click to expand...
on tractors, one would generally select the gear required based on RPM, speed, and working loads. In short, yes, start in the gear you will be working in-NO shifting in motion.
 
kielhorn said:
on tractors, one would generally select the gear required based on RPM, speed, and working loads. In short, yes, start in the gear you will be working in-NO shifting in motion.
Click to expand...

My bad. Post deleted.

Anyone attempting to shift with a tractor coasting needs a stopped transmission shaft. A sticky front bushing won't help.
Reduce throttle position from highest on the quadrant and feather clutch a bit from a standing stop to launch after selecting the appropriate gear for the intended task..
Probably best to leave third gear alone if wearing a fresh neck brace.
Third gear take off sucks with an unhealthy Cub.
 
Alright everyone. Quick update as the weekend flew by.

I adjusted the valves to .013 and she takes off in 3rd almost without struggle. Not to shabby at all. Def needed the adjustment though, a couple of them had no clearance while others were nearly at .050

Still no loader at my house, but soon... really wanting to get it mocked up and hoses replaced. Plus, I'll need it installed to deal with the right side headlight.

I did receive new grommets and connectors for the headlights so I'll be doing that this week sometime. I just wish I had more property to play on.. my little .55ac is simply not enough lol
jk
 
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