SEVERAL 140 QUESTIONS

D

DBIZZELL

Active member
I replaced touch control values o rings last year while touch control was in place, stopped leaks. noticed today the front leaver wasn't going all the way forwaed. can any one explain the correct way to adjust the stops under the touch control.

I bought a second 140, my old hood had a small ding so swapped them, The new one had 12.4x24 new tires so I swapped them, google said the 16" front tires would swapped with the 15" on my old 140 hubs barring and all. The bearings would not interchange? any ideas ?

I also changed all fluids, tune and went through the carb, but the air mixture doesn't change anything runs and cranks good no gas dripping'
the engine is a little stronger than my old one with really good oil preassure.
came with a real clean Covington TP46 planter. It all will be for sale when gardening season gets here.
Thanks
 
There is a full page in the Touch-Control Serviceman's Guide that explains how to adjust the stops. It is in the resources at:

According to the parts catalog, it looks like the hub for the steel wheels and the cast wheels use different bearings. Sizes within each of the wheel styles use the same bearings. Spindles are the same across all of them. So to change between the two styles of wheels, you must swap the ENTIRE bearing including the cones for each bearing. (I have not done this, just checked the catalog.)

Again, I haven't done anything on a 140. But I assume it is a gas carburetor with a single mixture adjustment. It is an idle adjustment that will only do something at low idle. If it has no effect, it usually indicates a plugged passage in the idle circuit.
 
Jim Becker said:
There is a full page in the Touch-Control Serviceman's Guide that explains how to adjust the stops. It is in the resources at:

According to the parts catalog, it looks like the hub for the steel wheels and the cast wheels use different bearings. Sizes within each of the wheel styles use the same bearings. Spindles are the same across all of them. So to change between the two styles of wheels, you must swap the ENTIRE bearing including the cones for each bearing. (I have not done this, just checked the catalog.)

Again, I haven't done anything on a 140. But I assume it is a gas carburetor with a single mixture adjustment. It is an idle adjustment that will only do something at low idle. If it has no effect, it usually indicates a plugged passage in the idle circuit.
Click to expand...
Thanks for info, I was pretty thorough on carb but i will go back thought it, If I am under standing you on the hubs, I can swap barring's and races and they should inter change, the 140 with 16" hubs has the diamond shaped front end. again thanks
 
That is another potentially important detail. But in this case, I don't think it changes anything. I think they should interchange if the whole bearing assembly is moved. Is the tractor with the heavy axle a Hi-Clear or just with the optional axle?
 
Jim Becker said:
That is another potentially important detail. But in this case, I don't think it changes anything. I think they should interchange if the whole bearing assembly is moved. Is the tractor with the heavy axle a Hi-Clear or just with the optional axle?
Click to expand...
It just heavy axle, I am crowding 80 don't mind the work of changing but would like to know they will swap before trying it Thanks
 
I learned the hard way there are a number of differences in the 140s. The C123 engine had a number of applications and configurations. There are different water pumps and other things that have to be purchased carefully when replacing. The early 140 front wheels look like the 130 wheels but were changed at some point.

It is not like the Cubs, where most parts will fit most years.
 
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