Sediment bowl....

[RedFox]

Noticed I have a fairly good leaking sediment bowl. No cracks that I can see in the bowl. I was thinking a rubber gasket, but then, I noticed if I shut the fuel valve, it still leaks until the bowl is empty (though it leaks more slowly as the bowl empties). Doesn't seem like a hard fix or an expensive part. Should I mess with trying to solve it with parts or just get a replacement.

While on the subject of replacement parts. It didn't take long for me to find a ton of parts for these, but I have noticed differences in what's out there. I really would NOT like to buy some made in China stuff if I can help it. I see some places that have the bowl with and "L" shaped valve and others with some modern looking valve. I'm assuming the "L" shaped valve is the original design for my model year and would like to keep the tractor as close to original as possible.

Anyone know of a reputable place for parts that carry mostly Made in USA that are authentic parts or authentic reproduction? I'm sure the Chinese stuff is ok, but call me crazy, I just like buying American whenever I can. If I can't then I could understand, but I'd really like some Made in USA authentic or authentic reproduction. Cost is also a factor, but I am also a firm believer in getting what you pay for, so price is not the only concern.

Thanks!

 

[Arthur Luke]

Click on TM Tractor Parts link at bottom of page for new parts. They sell good stuff.
welcome to forum.

 

[Clem]

It is an easy fix. It sounds like the packing needs to be replaced or the packing nut needs to be tightened down. If you want good stuff go with original parts from Ralph or new parts from TM. Ralph's stuff is as good as new, but better because it is the orginal materials.

http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=39030&p=322423&hilit=packing#p322423

 

[RedFox]

Thanks for the link Dan. I seem to recall the valve lever being pretty soaked with fuel, but not the top of the bowl assembly. I will take a closer look, but I'm starting to lean toward the valve packing material or loose nut....cheap efficient fix...and a great starting point.

 

[Bob McCarty]

Redfox, When you take the glass bowl off to replace the gasket (if needed), there is also a round filter screen that is often missing. TM Tractor also carries those. They will be moving to Fl after Thanksgiving, so if you want to order from them, keep that in mind as they will be closed for several months.

Bob

 

[awander]

I am not seeing how the glass bowl, which is closed at the bottom, could leak until it is empty-unless the fuel somhow wicks up the side of teh bowl?

 

[Bigdog]

If the bowl is draining down until it is empty or nearly empty it has to have a crack in it.

 

[Rudi]

Redfox:

I gotta agree with Andy and BD.

Noticed I have a fairly good leaking sediment bowl. No cracks that I can see in the bowl. I was thinking a rubber gasket, but then, I noticed if I shut the fuel valve, it still leaks until the bowl is empty (though it leaks more slowly as the bowl empties).

That is a cracked bowl. I happen to have one of them critters.. well more than one On the first bowl I could not see the crack until I cleaned it real well and then sprayed a little carb cleaner in it. It was sitting on a paper shop towel and within a very short time the bowl was empty and the shop towel was wet. Ergo there had to be a crack.. looked much closer and right at the bottom of the bowl just where the screw cap meets the bowl is where it was cracked. Very tiny, but it was enough to leak fuel. The second one, after I cleaned it, the crack ran around the circumference of the bowl from just above the bottom in an inclined line to 3/4 of the way up the bowl. Again you could not see it when the bowl was dirty, but when cleaned.. it became visible.

This is what you need. Tom has great parts and good prices coupled with supreme service. You can't get much better. They are also available at your local CaseIH Dealer, but make sure they give you the one for Cubs/A's and not the one for a Ford :!: :shock: :lol: Don't ask counterperson. (Kevin disregard this :lol: )

Stock# FL314 Price: $ 37.38 Fuel Strainer Assembly

These are the other two items that come with the Assembly..

and the

Stock# FL392 Price: $ 2.00 Fuel Strainer Gasket Stock# FL235 Price: $ 2.48 Fuel Strainer Screen.

Stock# FL186 Price: $ 12.68 Fuel Strainer Bowl

Now add that to the cost of a new shuto-off which I think is around $6.00 to $8.00 US, you are just as far ahead to get a new assembly. Keep what is good after a good cleaning for spare parts.

What I do is substitute the L-shaped shut-off valve with a 1/8" Ball Valve. I find it is easier on my fingers and it eliminates leaking entirely.

I think the best thing to do is to get a new Fuel Sediment Bowl Assembly from TM or CaseIH, your preference. Judging on what I just saw the other day on a fuel sediment bowl off of a Super A I am working on, convinces me that any tractor that has set a number of years with old fuel in the tank absolutely needs a new Fuel Sediment Bowl Asssembly just to be on the safe side.

 

[RedFox]

Thanks all.

I took a look more closely at the bowl after I changed the oil. It would appear that I have a few places where it's leaking. For sure at the valve (even after I tightened it down) and it looks like there may be a small crack somewhere in the bowl because there are no visible leaks above the top....appears to be coming from the lower part of the bowl.

So, I will contact Tom as suggested as I see he has a few odds and ends that I need and get it ordered before he moves. If I get that whole assembly as suggested Rudi, it has everything I'll need to replace it (gaskets, screen. bowl, etc) correct?

 

[Rudi]

Yup, sure does :!:

 

[Clem]

Take the bowl over to your sink and fill it up with water and see if it leaks :?

 

[RedFox]

Bowl was not cracked, but I had several leaking gaskets, no strainer so a replacement was really the right way to go....and although I seem to have reduced the leaks by say 90%, I have noticed that the tank is leaking from the base where the bowl screws into the tank. Now the edges seem a bit rough on the bottom, but the threads appear fine (I was very careful not to cross thread). I wrapped teflon tape around the threads before I screwed it into the tank, but not sure it did much good. Should I have used plumber's putty instead of teflon tape? Seems to be worse now that I just nearly filled the tank. Less gas, nearly non-existent leak, more gas in the tank= more pronounced.

 

[Don McCombs]

Should I have used plumber's putty instead of teflon tape?

I have used this product with good success. Make sure you let it cure according to the label instructions, if not longer.

 

[Rudi]

RedFox:

I would try the Permatex sealant that Don has highlighted. While I was playing with my other sediment bowls, I realized that CaseIH or their supplier more likely uses a sealant that appears similar to the permatex on the fuel shut-off and other threads. I would assume that it would work nicely. That probably would be a good next step.

What I am wondering is how far in are you threading the fuel sediment bowl. By rights it should seat almost at the shoulder. Each tank will be different of course depending on the quality of the threads. The sediment bowl should be threaded in until it seats tightly. Then the permatex or other sealants will be able to do their job. If the connection is not ticht, no amount of sealant will seal the threads.