Rust preventative question

Board shortener Tom

Board shortener Tom

Well-known member
Hi all! I've got some wood working machines going into a shipping container to be stored until I get a building or 2 fixed up here to put them in. Most of them have large machined surfaces that I'm trying to prevent from rusting although the previous storage had a roof leak and there is some damage on some machines. I will deal with that when it's time to get them out for the shop but right now I want to know what you guys are using to protect steel surfaces? I don't care if it's motor oil at this point I just don't want further damage. Most of these machines will be refurbished before putting them back into service like some of the machines I have posted on here before.

Thank you!
 
I used this stuff for years as rust preventative as a machine builder. Good stuff. Fluid Film as previously mentioned is great too! Grease is cheaper but it doesn't penetrate into cracks, crevasses and hard to reach places.

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I''ve used OSPHO for many years and had very satisfactory results. The phosphorus solution will react with the rusty metal areas and form a barrier that stops the existing rust. JMHO Stan
 
ajhbike said:
I have a lot of antique hand planes, saws, etc. and I use a torch to heat the metal up a bit and use boiled linseed oil. Works well on the metal and wood parts.
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That's an interesting method. I don't think I want to use the heat on the machined surfaces of my equipment though. I have a 14" table saw and 16" jointer in the shipping container now that I need to treat. I wouldn't want to risk warping the tops of them. I struggle enough with my own limitations so I don't need any machine issues to further my agony. 🤣
 
There are several good ideas here! Cosmolene works great but can be challenging to clean up afterward. Blaster makes an aerosol product, similar to Fluid Film, that works very well and cleans up easily. Linseed oil should work pretty well, even without the heat. Maybe even a combination of the above ideas.
 
Don McCombs said:
To take this thread slightly off track, what method(s) can be used to remove light flash rust from those machined surfaces described?
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Don, I have used finer grit wet/dry sandpaper with wd40 in the past. I usually don't go finer than 220 because that's good enough for what I'm doing. Sometimes I will start with a wire brush or wire wheel and then switch to sandpaper. I've never found an easy way to remove rust and polish things up. Often there is a "stain" where the rust was. I have seen the surface being "remachined" and that is a while different ballgame and the results are nice.

On fine rust a bit of 000 steel wool will clean things up nicely.
 
Don McCombs said:
Do you use a power sander for the 220 grit or do it by hand?
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I've done it both ways. If you keep it wet it doesn't clog up. I did get some fluid film today. One of my machines had a light coat of rust on the table. I hit it with #1 steel wool because that's all I could find in my "shop" since our move. It worked nicely. I wiped things off with a dry rag and sprayed the fluid film on.
 
Board shortener Tom said:
That's an interesting method. I don't think I want to use the heat on the machined surfaces of my equipment though. I have a 14" table saw and 16" jointer in the shipping container now that I need to treat. I wouldn't want to risk warping the tops of them. I struggle enough with my own limitations so I don't need any machine issues to further my agony. 🤣
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I should have said warm the surfaces up...so you can still touch it...just a bit to let it bake in
 
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