Reverse idler bushings

R

raymonddurban

501 Club
Any one out here got a lead on these? TM doesn't carry them, and a search of C&G came up with nothing. I didn't get anything in a Google search either.
 
Not sure what it means but the manual says to ream it.... seems like it should be right from the factory??

C&G will have it too.
 
Buzzard Wing":1e8g6pjo said:
Not sure what it means but the manual says to ream it.... seems like it should be right from the factory??
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The original ID would be correct from the manufacturer. But, after pressing in the new bushing it will need to be reamed (or honed) to the correct size, to clean-up any distortion of the bushing that would have occured during the installation.
 
Bob McCarty":1mr4pvgn said:
Raymond, Messick's shows part # 350871 R1 available for $13.96.

Bob
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I've found that if they say it's available, and it's a "odd" part, it was probably NLA years ago... :?

Al
 
No Al, if the site says it's available, it is. Now another matter is if they send you all the items on the invoice/packing list. Last time I ordered from them 3 of the 5 parts showed up.... and the TOB (main reason for the order) was pulled and sitting waiting for the stuff from the CNH warehouse and whoever shipped it never bothered to add the parts that were in their stock. That's twice for them, the other 'complete' order was one rattle can of yeller paint. I had to empty the 1/4 painted stuff out of the garage to fit the new Cub in.... still never finished the painting. C&G would never make that mistake once, much less twice.

BTW Ken Updike told me that if it's in the midwest warehouse it will be at C&G first thing in the morning.
 
Just a quick question, from a transmission neophyte. My limited understanding is that this repair can be made by simply taking the cover off and removing the shaft and idler, replace the bushing, ream it out, then replace the shaft and idler, is this correct?

Thanks.

Bill
 
You'll have to pull the input shaft first. So this a transmission removed, off tractor repair. I don't believe there is enough room to maneuver the reverse idler gear out of the case without the sliding gears, shifting forks and input shaft in the way.

This will be done, if necessary, on a tractor with a incessant click in the transmission. I just wanted to have this in case the bushing needs replaced. Won't know till we pull it all apart.
 
RaymondDurban":29egxdcr said:
You'll have to pull the input shaft first. So this a transmission removed, off tractor repair. I don't believe there is enough room to maneuver the reverse idler gear out of the case without the sliding gears, shifting forks and input shaft in the way.

This will be done, if necessary, on a tractor with a incessant click in the transmission. I just wanted to have this in case the bushing needs replaced. Won't know till we pull it all apart.
Click to expand...

My incessant click turned out to be a cracked reverse idler gear, I've been into 5 transmissions and never
found a bad reverse idler bushing (if that's any comfort :wink: )
 
I just measured the bushing in the transmission I have apart - bore was 0.613 and the shaft was 0.610 - both at the limits in the book. That particular part was worked pretty hard in that tractor, so unless you have really worked it hard, yours is probably OK....
 
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