Replacing rockshaft gasket
- Thread starter Detz#2
- Start date
I got the shaft out I had thought it would come out of the governor housing.
So the oil leaks out the housing along the shaft in the picture. The gasket I acquired from HamiltonBobs is in a metal housing that looks like it would fit on the spring attachment. Does I come off or should the governor housing be removed?
So the oil leaks out the housing along the shaft in the picture. The gasket I acquired from HamiltonBobs is in a metal housing that looks like it would fit on the spring attachment. Does I come off or should the governor housing be removed?
Dale Finch
501 Club
That piece that you removed from the governor is the governor spring lever, not the rockshaft. There is no gasket that belongs there. While you have it off, make sure the spring hole is not wallowed out. Just make sure the shaft is clean, oiled, and free moving when you reinstall it.
Bill V in Md
501 Club
You must have removed the spring lever that the spring is attached to. The governor rockshaft will not come out without removing the governor tension fork from the shaft. To do that you have to disassemble the governor. There is an oil seal for the governor shaft. When I replaced mine, I took the governor housing apart. Below is a photo of the interior.
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Below is a listing at TM Tractor Parts for a new governor oil seal for the shaft. The seal is small. You can look at the picture.
I don't know how you would remove the shaft without disassembling the governor.
I don't know what gasket they sold you.
I don't know how you would remove the shaft without disassembling the governor.
I don't know what gasket they sold you.
Don McCombs
501 Club
This How To may be helpful in working on the governor…
Click on each attachment slide to enlarge.
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Bill Hudson
501 Club
I even went to the How To forum and got the same message.
Don McCombs
501 Club
This issue has been reported.
Is it possible to remove the governor housing without taking the governor out? I just want to replace the oil seal on the shaft.
Bill V in Md
501 Club
I am going to say yes. It will be tight working in there pulling the housing off, but you already have removed the spring lever, so you are well on your way.
If you decide to try this, set the engine with cylinder 1 at TDC before you start. It will make things easier if the governor accidentally comes off with the housing.
If you removed the shaft the throttle arm is on, be sure it is tight in the housing when you put it in again.
Below is a picture from TM Tractor Parts, that's the upper shaft in the picture.
Oil the shaft where the arm goes on it, the arm can get tight working from no oil.
Below is a picture from TM Tractor Parts, that's the upper shaft in the picture.
Oil the shaft where the arm goes on it, the arm can get tight working from no oil.
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It looks like you need another governor housing, or a complete governor.
If the holes in the weights, and the pins holding the weights on are worn, the weights can hit inside the housing, and wear the housing.
Look and see if the weights have been rubbing in the housing.
I don't know what you are calling the rock shaft gasket, there isn't a part with that name in the governor picture from the Cub parts manual that Dale posted in post 3 above.
Can you write what part it is, using the numbers in the picture Dale posted.
The description only goes to part 23, there is another page with more numbers. The numbers above 23 aren't gaskets.
J P Tractor Salvage probably has a good used governor housing, or complete governor.
They are near the bottom of the Forums page.
The housing needs replacing so the engine oil doesn't run out the hole in it.
The weights should never rub in the housing.
The weights and pins probably need repair, like it tells about in the How To above.
Buying a good used governor is easier, if you don't do metal work.
Below is oil seal info, if you need it.
Oil seals have metal around the outside. You have to hammer the old seal out, using a long punch, and a hammer. Then hammer the new seal into the hole, they fit tight in the hole.
Don't hammer directly on a new seal, it can dent the seal. Put flat metal over it to hammer on, or use a seal driver. There might not be seal drivers for that small a seal.
Don't hammer in the middle of the new seal, only apply force at the OD, the OD holds it in the hole.
Be sure the seal lip is facing in, towards the governor.
Seals can leak if installed backwards.
Oil the seal rubber, and shaft where the seal runs, so the seal rubber has oil.
The weights should never rub in the housing.
The weights and pins probably need repair, like it tells about in the How To above.
Buying a good used governor is easier, if you don't do metal work.
Below is oil seal info, if you need it.
Oil seals have metal around the outside. You have to hammer the old seal out, using a long punch, and a hammer. Then hammer the new seal into the hole, they fit tight in the hole.
Don't hammer directly on a new seal, it can dent the seal. Put flat metal over it to hammer on, or use a seal driver. There might not be seal drivers for that small a seal.
Don't hammer in the middle of the new seal, only apply force at the OD, the OD holds it in the hole.
Be sure the seal lip is facing in, towards the governor.
Seals can leak if installed backwards.
Oil the seal rubber, and shaft where the seal runs, so the seal rubber has oil.
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