Repair of the hydraulic pump, the saga is now complete

ShawnAgne

ShawnAgne

501 Club
Just as a refresher here is what my drive shaft looked like, notice the ring. It was leaking hydraulic fluid rather quickly.
4wE9bRF.jpg

The first repair job was to sleeve it with a speedi sleeve and replace the standard o ring with a X oring. Well after properly installing the speedi-sleeve in the correct location I quickly noticed an issue. You can't fit the brass bushing over it. (Note when I tried to place bushing I had removed the lip used to put it in place)
vegtmx4.jpg

So I had to remove it (not easy to do) so I heated it up and in the process trashed the speedi sleeve. So repair #1 ended up just being the X oring. shaft was a little tight it seemed to fit down in the groovs so gave it a try. Leak had slowed had hydraulics for about 2 hours of operation while plowing snow before lost fluid.

So on to repair #2. This time I installed the speed sleeve with the brass bushing in place
SlPBAZI.jpg


I then proceeded to put the cover on with the x-oring. it was very tight going on, so much so that the shaft wouldn't turn, NOT GOOD. So I popped the cover off and the speedi-sleeve was stuck in the cover and had pulled off the shaft. I was NOT A HAPPY camper. So I decided enough of this lets get it done right. I took it to the local machine shop.

The shaft measures .498. The ID of the x oring is .487 and the speedi sleeve adds .026" to the diameter of the shaft. So quickly doing the math you can see why repair #2 was doomed to failure So what they ended up doing is grinding the shaft down to .465". They made a sleeve and then press fit it on to bring the diameter back to .498" In the picture below you can see the sleeve below the white grease and above the brass bushing
lhOktn0.jpg


Now this is where they had to do some adjusting at .498" diameter with the x oring at .487" there was to much crush and the shaft turned hard. So they ground the sleeve down till it turned free enough but still had good crush on the washer. I forget diamter but want to say it was .496" maybe? Machinist was pretty confident this would seal properly.

SO here is what I learned during this whole saga.
1. If you are going to use a speedi sleeve you are are going to have to open up the shaft opening in the plate. Otherwise everything is just to darn tight.
2. If you use the x oring you need to have your shaft turned down otherwise it will be a little to tight.
3. Most importantly don't do this during the winter in between snow storms when you NEED your hydraulics to work to plow snow. Fix the pump issue in the summer when you just have to mow and you have a second tractor to do this.
 
For the record the shaft can be welded and turned on a lathe and no bushings involved. The housing can be opened as well and a regular oil seal installed. I forgot the number of the seal but it can be bought at a parts store. It’s actually listed as a transmission shaft seal.
 
I was afraid of it bending as well, I guess as close as it is to the end and as small as it is, the 3 or 4 I’ve done didn’t bend.
 
I left the shaft alone on mine last winter and just used the X o-ring as it was riding outside of the groove the original o-ring had worn into the shaft. Still holding up good so far.

But I like the idea of having a machine shop turn the shaft down and make a new sleeve for it. I'll probably go that route next time around.
 
In the previous post I had put an X o ring in and left the shaft along with the wear rings. The leak was slowed but still was leaking.
 
Here’s one of several I’ve welded and turned down to original size with no warping of the shaft.
 

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Hey Shane, when I return from DSCF, my next job will probably be a hydraulic pump rebuild. (I was going to run one of my cubs and the oil was quite overfilled when checked...so the suspect is the pump.)
Maybe I could sneak it into your repair pile and get you to do that same beautiful job?!! :lol:
 
Dale, you can send it to me and I'll be glad to fix it when time permits (shouldn't take more than a week), depends on what the boss man has me working on.
 
Hi,
If you don't see any fluid running out of the Touch Control block, or the tubes, or the pump externally, then the fluid can only be leaking from the pump shaft seal into the engine.
You could look up under the front, and the rear, of the Touch Control block with a good light, and see if there is a leak.
 
18961F46-D8DA-46B1-8717-BD3542D037F7.jpegGood evening It has been awhile since I’ve been on Recently bought a 51 cub with touch control Was told it had a small leak Appears definition of small varies Hope to rebuild as work permits There is a leather pouch around each of the pump valve ends Do not see them in parts manual Are they stock or leak containment
 
They are there to keep dirt, etc, out. If yours are in good shape, you can wash them down, and oil them with neatsfoot oil:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neatsfoot_oil
If they are rotten, which most are, TM Tractors (a forum sponsor) has them for sale...not cheap!
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/1375fp.htm
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/4629fp.htm
They do make rubber replacement boots, but personally, I like the leather better.

When you get to the rebuilding, there are a couple excellent HOW TO's for that, depending on your TC Block part number.
 
if the oil is leaking at the selector shaft it does not need a rebuild, you can pull the shaft from the outside and replace the oring that is leaking and a new boot if needed
 
Thank you for the info I had looked at parts manual and did not read the description of the part Will have to pay more when I attempt the rebuild
 
Hi,
If the Touch Control was working normally except for the leak at the front of it, you may not need to rebuild the Touch Control block.
If the only leak is at the control valve on the front of the block, the valve slides out the front. It has an o ring that seals it. If there are no leaks from the head end, or rear end, of the block, you don't need to disturb that end.

Below is a listing at TM Tractor for the Control Valve o ring. It has a pic of where it goes. :)

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/674fp.htm

You could rebuild the unit if you want to, sometimes they are dirty inside, sometimes the strainer screen is broken.
 
From a cost stanpoint, if you have to have a machine shop do work on pump components, it's going to be cheaper to open the housing to accept a lip seal than repairing the shaft. The lip seal can be positioned so it rides on an unworn section of the shaft.
The other advantage of using a lip seal is, it's a much better shaft seal than an oring.
 
I just had Tst rebuild my pump and machine the housing for the lip seal. Did a great job and now I don't have to worry it. Cost was very reasonable as well. Might want to send him a PM
 
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