Jamie :!: :!: :!:
How are ya :?: :?: :?: Another Maritime Cubber :!: :!: Far Out!
First,
to the greatest forum on the internet, and to the Cub Family. You will find that all the folks on this forum are kind, helpful and just full of Cub info and knowledge. They also happen to be the finest folks I have ever met :!:
hello:
I'm new here and own a 54 cub with touch control and i have a few questions about removing the rear wheels. First..what size socket/ wrench do i need to remove the rear wheel from the axle?.. My cub is at our camp and i have to take up tools to work on it.
Second question what size wrench do i need to remove the wheel weights on the rear tires.. and lastly..I'm putting new rims on the back..liquid came out of one of the valve stems and rotted out the rim around the valve stem. I have read that the origional nuts holding the wheel dish to the rim will not fit on the aftermarket rims i just bought and i was told to use grade 8 carriage bolts instead.. what is a grade 8 carriage bolt?.. will it be the right length or do i need to i need to find ones the right length ( 2.. 3 or maybe 4 inch ??).and will i need washers?.. should these bolts and washers be galvanized??
lastly.. i'm sure i read somewhere that lime is added to the calcium liquid in the wheels, to prevent it from being corrosive.. is this true??
thanks in advance for any help you may offer
Off hand I cannot remember the bolt size.. but suffice to say.. one of your wrenches/sockets will fit. Bring ALL of your tools , because for sure.. you will forget the one you do need.
Now, there is a post I just read.. will go and have a look at it again in a minute and add it here, that George Willer responded to.. and he describes this fix well. The carriage bolts will not sit in the repro rims properly, hence the fix is a larger washer used in conjunction with the carriage bolt.
johnb175 wrote:
Ok, so I have another question. I just bought a used center hub for one of my rear wheels. The hub is held on by four square head bolts to keep them from turning in the channel they slide into. They were extremely rusted so I went looking for replacements at the local hardware stores with no luck. What are some possible solutions to this problem since I can't seem to find square headed bolts? I tried a standard Hex head bolt which just turns on the channel.
You could use longer hex head bolts with heavy washers under the heads so they don't go inside the "channel". If I remember right it's necessary to do this with some reproduction rims. One of my Cubs is fitted this way.
_________________
George Willer
Now for a neat chart on Bolt Grading.. look here at
ASTM & SAE Grade Markings for Steel Bolts and Screws for info on the difference in Bolt Grades. Grade 5 will break under load and are somewhat useful when shearing is desireable prior to attaining shatter points.. but Grade 8 is better when shearing is NOT desireable such as in Tire Applications. Bolts and washers do not need to be galvanized, and in fact if you wish to paint em.. you don't want them galvanized... unless of course you are going to re-galvanize your rims.
As for adding lime to Calcium Chloride.. nope know nudding about that.. but I do know this, I won't load my tires.. on a Cub, rear wheel weights should be sufficient and if not, then double the weights.. forget the CaCl.. in my opinion.
Do get the manuals.. they are a basic requirement.. Glad to see you here.. there are a few in your area that are quite knowledgeable about Cubs and will pop up shortly. Looks like a need for another mini-fest.. Timmy's, and Cubs.. and Cub-a-holics -- a perfect match :!: :wink:
Ok, so here is the spiel
:
I would suggest that you read this thread:
New Members and Visitors, Please READ Prior to Posting. There are many great links to informative pages such as the
ATIS FAQ's 1 and
ATIS FAQ's 2,
The Best of H.L. Chauvin who has written very interesting articles on troubleshooting common problems with your Cub.
Also, you might want to visit the
Cub Manual Server as there is tons of info on servicing, maintaining and re-building your Cub. In addition to this basic information, there are also a number of other useful tools available on the server. There is the
Specialty Services page which has contact info for neat stuff like getting your seats recovered, buying quality Decals, Serial Number tags and a host of other neat items. Also there are the Parts Pages - both
Used Parts Suppliers and
New Parts Suppliers pages with links to quality dealers. I am always looking for
YOUR favourite dealers for New and Used Parts to include here. These pages are intended to complement our Official
FarmallCub.com Website Sponsors:
I would also recommend that you visit
Binder Books and purchase the three most important manuals you can own for Maintenance, Repair and Rebuilding your Cub. These are the
Owner's Manual, the
GSS-1411 Service Manual and the
TC-37F Parts Manual. Although they are available on the
Cub Manual Server, it is better is you also have your own paper copy.
Binder Books is the only Authorized IH Publication Reprint House and they have the best quality manuals available. Most other's are not of the same quality. Just a personal thought here, the
I&T Shop Manuals, although helpful in some areas, really are not sufficient for the job. If you wish though, they are good additional reference works.
IF you really want to get the skinny on all things Cub, might I suggest you get a copy of
Ken Updike's Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet's :?: . While you are at it
Original Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet is Ken's latest addition to the series. Along with
Guy Fay's Letter Series Originality Guide, these are three must have's in anyone's collection.
In addition to the above information, don't forget to check out the various articles that are available to help with your Repair, Restore, Rebuild or just your Maintenance Projects. There are a number of sub pages such as
Electrolysis or Rust Zapper's,
Maintenance Tips, Jigs and Techniques,
Implement and Part Sketches and of course the
Paint, Decals & Other Finish Questions which has the Paint Chart and the Paint Committee Decisions links.
Oh, and while the program still lasts.. you might want to check the
Announcement: Navistar Free Gas Cap Offer - On-Line Form thread at the top of the Cub Forum and send away for the new style safety cap before that program runs out as well.
I truly hope that you enjoy your Cub and that you will be a frequent contributor to the forum. Again,
to the Cub Family
