Rear tire thoughts and feelings

Clemsonfor":o8gzvyq2 said:
Most people who have working tractors run the tires till they will no longer hold the tube in. Or so cracked or missing so many pieces of rubber the tube keeps getting poked and going flat, OR they are totally smooth. These are not like car tires where you can be going 80mph in traffic down the interstate and a blowout can kill you or others. Most people here I don't think make a living with their cub so down time is not like a current big ag farmer where it kills him to be down. So most of us the worse problem to have on a blow out is you stop work where you are. If the tire it totally destroyed from a real blow out you can just drive back to the yard or barn. If the tube just got a hole and the tire is still good drive your truck and trailer down there, take it off and then go get it fixed.

Its really sounding like what I already have is the best way to go haha. Hopefully when I wrestle it off of the rusty rim, the most worrisome tire is doing alright and then I will just see about putting 'em back on. Would prefer to have "original" tires anyway and I like I said above - I dont see myself using it for much hard labor, so if you all say old rubber is fine until it falls off, then I'm game to do it.

Thank you everyone for your input!
 
Hi,
When you change the rear tire to another rim, remember to put it on facing the right way, so the wheel width can be adjusted like the Cub operator's manual shows.
The right and left rear tires face opposite ways on the rims, so one is used on the left, and one is used on the right, and the treads both face ahead, with the R1, ag tread. Usually there are directional arrows on the side of the tires.
I'm not sure if there are directional arrows on the turf tires.

When changing a tire, be careful and don't pinch the tube against the rim with the tire tools, it can cut the tube.
When the tire is on the rim, and you inflate it, inflate it once, then let all the air out, all that will come out, then inflate it again. This help straighten out any folds in the tube, the tube can be in the wrong position in places, and have folds in it. Deflating it once helps the tube to move so the folds are straightened out. The tube can fail in time where the folds are.

Rear Cub tires use low pressure, unless you are lifting heavy loads on the rear.
12 psi works well for normal use. You can use more if you want.
Below is a page from the 1965 Cub operator's manual showing rear tire pressures, in the table.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-50.jpg

Below are pressures for the front tires. I use about 30 psi, it steers easier than lower pressures.
Your tires probably need to be good to use the higher pressures.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-49.jpg

It's good to widen the rear of a Cub out to the 44" wheel spacing shown in the operator's manual, it makes it a little more stable. That is as wide as it goes with the rear wheel discs turned in.

When removing rear wheels or rims from a Cub, you should use wood wedges in the front axle pivot. Cubs are heavier on the left side, and they can tip over when removing weight from the right rear area.
If you widen the rear rims to the 44" setting, you have to remove both rims at the same time.
You leave the center disc where it is now.
Below is the page from the 1965 Cub operator's manual, showing the spacing. It is the right rear wheel in the pic.
44" is above the tire outline. There are other spacings too.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-46.jpg

If the Cub has an adjustable width front axle, it can be changed to match the rear spacing.
Sometimes the axle tubes are rusted inside, and hard to move.

Below is a pic of the front axle wedges. You will need to make them. Drive them in tight with a hammer. Be sure the small end is not hitting in the pivot, the wedge has to be tight on the top and bottom sides. :)
 

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Dusty B":2x99sw8t said:
Just FYI I think many of the irrigation systems use the 8.3 X 24 tires ? Possible source for used tires??

Those center pivot irrigation systems are HARD on tires. There's usually less than nothing left of them by the time the farmer takes them off.

8.3x24 are about the least expensive ag tire you can buy new. Might be fun to treat the tractor to new shoes for once, but keep in mind sun is hard on modern rubber, so if the tractor is kept indoors, all the better.
 
Old tires get very hard and are really difficult to mount and dismount.
If changing a rim I would be VERY inclined to put on new rubber. (Especially if I am the person mounting the tire)

If paying a company to mount the tire, then using the old tire would probably be fine.
 
outdoors4evr":2nazdhon said:
Old tires get very hard and are really difficult to mount and dismount.
If changing a rim I would be VERY inclined to put on new rubber. (Especially if I am the person mounting the tire)

If paying a company to mount the tire, then using the old tire would probably be fine.

I was debating whether to chime in, this post made me do it. My experience was that the old tire bead stuck to the rim so badly that I tore pieces of rubber out when removing it. Since it had a tube I might could have re-used it, but I had a good used set to replace it with. On your rusted out rim, don't be surprised if you don't see something similar.
 
Rick Spivey":3nnahvx3 said:
outdoors4evr":3nnahvx3 said:
Old tires get very hard and are really difficult to mount and dismount.
If changing a rim I would be VERY inclined to put on new rubber. (Especially if I am the person mounting the tire)

If paying a company to mount the tire, then using the old tire would probably be fine.

I was debating whether to chime in, this post made me do it. My experience was that the old tire bead stuck to the rim so badly that I tore pieces of rubber out when removing it. Since it had a tube I might could have re-used it, but I had a good used set to replace it with. On your rusted out rim, don't be surprised if you don't see something similar.
This is a real possibility, this happens even on like automotive tires that ha e been mounted a long time, the bead of the tire will tear on dismount.

But a tube will still allow a tire that has some portions missing to be used as he says.

I agree I think a center pivot would run them till bald or blown out. And 8.3x24 are relatively cheap. With tubes I think you can have them shipped to your house for under $400, for some of the generic brands.
 
More thoughts here than feelings :lol: Sounds like most of us aren't in touch with the feelings side. :surrender: :shock:

You aren't planning to keep the rim, so what about breaking the bead and then cutting the rim into thirds with a sawzall to remove it?
 
v w":m0gp8bqt said:
Walmart handles a few. They will ship to store at no cost. This is the lowest priced one for $133. I've never heard of BKT tires. I can get a tire from a local dealer for $200, can't remember brand. Vern

https://www.walmart.com/ip/BKT-TR-135-8 ... /716642183

I've had BKT tires on 2 of my Cubs for probably over 8 years without any problems or reason for concern. That's a heck of a good price, I paid more back when I got mine. For that price, if I was considering a change, I wouldn't think twice about replacing them and not worrying about it for some time.

Best of luck,
 
I’ve got a set of BKT’s on a cub and have been working them fairly hard and regularly on my farm with no complaints. 266 seems like a great price for a set. I don’t think you would be disappointed in them
 
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