Rear tire leaking ????

StanMI

StanMI

Member
Right rear tire is dripping from the tire's valve stem and seams to be oozing from some of the cracks in the side wall. Rim looks beyond awful. I'm assuming it's Calcium Chloride but not sure. Has no smell and brown color but that could be from rust on rims. If it is CC can I just drain the tire or do I need to take some kind of precautions?

Also.

It looks like I'm going to need to replace everything. Since the tractor is offset, is the right rear wheel and rim different then the left ?
 
You can drain the CC, it is not toxic. However, it will kill any vegetation it touches. I usually try to catch what I drain and dump it along my fence line. If I spill some it won't harm much unless it is concrete.

The left and right rim and wheel are the same.
 
Hi,
Too bad the wheel is rusted.
Below is a new rim at TM Tractor Parts, you can look at the pictures. It is a 7" x 24" rim. I don't know what size your Cub has, there were also narrower rims used on Cubs.
https://www.tmtractor.com/new/wh/724fp.htm

TM Tractor Parts rim is held onto the wheel disc with different bolts than the originals used.
If you want the original style rim, you can look for a used rim.
You can put an ad in The Vine, on here, or J P Tractor Salvage might have a used one.
J P Tractor Salvage is on here, click on Forums at the top of the page, and they are near the bottom of that page.
Cub tires originally use tubes in them. :)
 
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StanMI said:
Right rear tire is dripping from the tire's valve stem and seams to be oozing from some of the cracks in the side wall. Rim looks beyond awful. I'm assuming it's Calcium Chloride but not sure. Has no smell and brown color but that could be from rust on rims. If it is CC can I just drain the tire or do I need to take some kind of precautions?

Also.

It looks like I'm going to need to replace everything. Since the tractor is offset, is the right rear wheel and rim different then the left ?
Click to expand...
First, just to clarify: the assumption is you are talking about a Farmall/IH Cub since this is where your post is. Next, are you talking about tube type or tubeless tire leaking? Just need to know because different situations can be addressed in different ways. I would first remove the tire, etc from the rim and determine what is the damage. Just because your rim might be rusty does not mean it must be replaced. You can clean the rim by removing most or all of the rust with an angle grinder and wire wheel brush or sandblasting, then treat the metal with a rust inhibitor like OSPHO, then repaint the rim with a rust inhibitor paint. Maybe your tire is reusable with a new tube. That approach is not nearly as expensive as replacing the rim. This is my choice and the process that I've used many times. JMHO Stan
 
It is a cub....I'll try and post a photo tomorrow. The Wheel disc (first time I've heard it called that, thanks for clarifying) and rim looked more pocked than I did at 14. If I'm able to get any of the bolts off without them crumbling I'll be surprised.

I'm assuming it's tubed but I have no idea. Is there a way to tell ?

Another question.........how much would you estimate it weighs ? Just so I pay it proper respect.
 
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StanMI said:
how much would you estimate it weighs ?
Click to expand...
The tire and rim with calcium is probably 200 pounds or better, depending how full it is. It could be more or less. I advise jacking it up and draining as much as you can before taking it off the tractor. No sense risking getting hurt.
 
StanMI said:
It is a cub....I'll try and post a photo tomorrow. The Wheel disc (first time I've heard it called that, thanks for clarifying) and rim looked more pocked than I did at 14. If I'm able to get any of the bolts off without them crumbling I'll be surprised.

I'm assuming it's tubed but I have no idea. Is there a way to tell ?

Another question.........how much would you estimate it weighs ? Just so I pay it proper respect.
Click to expand...
The rim is held to the center disc by square head bolts if it is OEM. Age and rust usually make them difficult to remove unless someone used some never sieze when they were last removed. The center wheel disc is fastened to the rear axle with studs much the same as an auto wheel. They should not be too difficult to remove. It's a good idea to wedge the front axle at the pivot to keep it from rolling when you have a wheel removed (safety). Sometimes the rear wheel assembly can be stuck to the axle and even after the studs are removed it doesn't want to come off. If you have a means to hold the wheel assembly vertical while working on removing it would be a safer approach. Example: rope/chain/hoist etc. fastened overhead (even a ceiling joist or tree limb) to keep it from falling when it gets loose.

Very likely a tubed tire. The tube valve is a 2 piece construction that allows the center to be removed to add ballast fluid. I've experienced failure to seal on the inner valve part and it can be replaced separately. Google TR218A tractor tire tube and you can see how its made. A new tube costs about $35 on line. Regardless, it needs to be removed and disassembled to resolve the rust issue and the cause of the problem. Here's a link to a post that I made a few days ago on the subject. https://farmallcub.com/community/threads/rear-tractor-tire-slow-leak-fix.117931/ JMHO Stan
 
Thanks for everyone's help, I really do appreciate it ! Always great to pick the minds of the experts.

I did a temporary fix. I will have to do a permanent fix at some point or thie rim is going to disintegrate from rust. The temporary fix was to leave the tractor parked with the valve stem in the 12 o'clock position. This should get me time to make sure the tractor will do the work I have for it before I decide to invest more money/time into it.
 
OSPHO (corrected with Edit) sounds like some good stuff ! Any experience with it ???

And for when I start this project. Any guidance on how to create something safe to jack up the rear wheel ? I do not have a ceiling lift.
 
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StanMI said:
Sophomore sounds like some good stuff ! Any experience with it ???

And for when I start this project. Any guidance on how to create something safe to jack up the rear wheel ? I do not have a ceiling lift.
Click to expand...
Stan,
Before lifting the rear-end of the Cub, wedge the front axle.
1742478832111.png
This is what I did to get both wheels off way back in 2006. I would jack up each side a couple of inches at a time. I would probably do things differently now.
Do not use concrete blocks for cribbing.
1742479212228.png
 
StanMI said:
Sophomore sounds like some good stuff ! Any experience with it ???

And for when I start this project. Any guidance on how to create something safe to jack up the rear wheel ? I do not have a ceiling lift.
Click to expand...
I have used OSPHO (brand name) for more than 25 years as a rust inhibitor, it stops rust and converts the rusty surface into a paintable surface. GOOD STUFF!! Follow label instructions and safety precautions. JMHO Stan
 
I have had good luck with wedging the front axle, as Stan mentioned, then using an engine hoist (cherry picker) to lift one side at a time, which keeps the floor clear, so you can get cribbing or a jackstand under the "jack pad" on the tractor.

I then use the same engine hoist to remove the tire and/or final. Once that's done, I recheck the front axle wedges! 🙂

If I need to do both sides at one time, you can the repeat on the other side. Take your time and keep an eye on everything!
 
One comment on Peter's picture, I would try to avoid the wooden spacer on top of the jack stand. It is probably okay, depending on the size of the piece of wood and how stable it is on the axle extension. But I would feel better with another adequately sized block under the jack stand.
 
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