Hairy Moose Knuckles
Well-known member
How difficult a job is it to replace one? Any special tools? Any tips you can give me?
Rear axle seal
- Thread starter Hairy Moose Knuckles
- Start date
John *.?-!.* cub owner
501 Club
We need to know which model tractor.
Hairy Moose Knuckles
Well-known member
Ooops sorry, guess that would help wouldn't it. It's a 51 SC.
He means the Super C.
The outer oil seal and felt seal is in the cap which isn't too much trouble other than you have to remove the wheel/rim/tire assy which can be a bear especially if you have wheel weights and/or CaCl in the tire. Have a good jack stand and a level place to work. The bad news is that the outer seal is supposed to be dry (that's why there's a grease zerk there) and the problem is that the inner oil seal is leaking which is the one you need to get to. For that do everything we mentioned already, then remove the seat assy, steering assy, if you have fast hitch the hyd lines and the rear rockshaft at least will need to go, then the tranny cover, (poss the PTO if you can't work around the shafts) then remove the 2 bolts and cap that hold the bull gear to the axle. If you're lucky the axle will slide out without too much trouble, the other 99% of the time you will need a hyd ram like a porta-power to pop the axle out (the outer bearing will slide off with the axle), then unbolt the axle housing, remove the 4 bolts that hold the bearing in the end of the axle housing, use something to press that bearing out (I often just use the axle to tap it out from the inside), then you get to knock out the inner oil seal! Remember you still have the outer cap to clean up and replace it's seal and felt. Poof-- that's all there is to it
You get three guesses what I've been doing lately (and the first two don't count!) 
The outer oil seal and felt seal is in the cap which isn't too much trouble other than you have to remove the wheel/rim/tire assy which can be a bear especially if you have wheel weights and/or CaCl in the tire. Have a good jack stand and a level place to work. The bad news is that the outer seal is supposed to be dry (that's why there's a grease zerk there) and the problem is that the inner oil seal is leaking which is the one you need to get to. For that do everything we mentioned already, then remove the seat assy, steering assy, if you have fast hitch the hyd lines and the rear rockshaft at least will need to go, then the tranny cover, (poss the PTO if you can't work around the shafts) then remove the 2 bolts and cap that hold the bull gear to the axle. If you're lucky the axle will slide out without too much trouble, the other 99% of the time you will need a hyd ram like a porta-power to pop the axle out (the outer bearing will slide off with the axle), then unbolt the axle housing, remove the 4 bolts that hold the bearing in the end of the axle housing, use something to press that bearing out (I often just use the axle to tap it out from the inside), then you get to knock out the inner oil seal! Remember you still have the outer cap to clean up and replace it's seal and felt. Poof-- that's all there is to it
You get three guesses what I've been doing lately (and the first two don't count!) Hairy Moose Knuckles
Well-known member
On second thought, it's not leaking too bad. LOL!!!
John *.?-!.* cub owner
501 Club
I have a Farmall H that a front transmission seal is leaking on, that I made the same decision about after trying for 2 hours to unscrew the drive coupling. :lol:Hairy Moose Knuckles":fb3t2ceh said:
A
Anonymous
Guest
You take an old lift all coupling, cut it down and weld a 1/2" drive on it to use in an impact gun. Also for some reason (I'm having trouble remembering) it might be L/H thread too.
Bill E Bob
501 Club
WKPoor":21n4tpzn said:
Ok WK, you lost me at "lift all coupling"!!??
John *.?-!.* cub owner
501 Club
The belly pump on an H is driven by a shaft (coupling) that has large screwdriver shaped piece on each end. the tranny and pump have a large coupling that looks like an oversize screw head that the coupling fits into to drive it from the transmission. I didn't try the drive coupling trick, but did weld a piece of keystock to a 24 inch long piece of 1/4 inch angle iron and could not loosen it with that. I did try making a tool from a 1/2 inch grade 5 bolt and some keystock to remove the one on the pump, and broke the bolt with my impact. That's when I decided to get another pump. the spring that returns the lever to the center position had broken on mine many years ago and gone through the pump, which I assume is the reason the 2 couplings are so tight. That spring is fairly thick and the pump cut it into 3 or 4 pieces. Pump was never quite the same afterward.Bill E Bob":17itr57i said:
WK, thanks for the idea on making the tool. The next time I feel like hurting for a few days I will get a neighbor to help me drop the pump and try it again. If I remember correctly, the coupling is a right hand thread. The only work the old H does is haul a trailer load of kids to the creek occasionally or drive in a parade, so i just put a drip pan under it when it's parked in the shed.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Next time you drop the pump throw into into the bone pile. Thats the weakest part of that tractor. For 300 and some change you can make it live and never look back unless you are into original.
John *.?-!.* cub owner
501 Club
The closest thing to serious work my H will do for the rest of it's life is probably hauling a wagon load of kids to the creek now and then. I did replace the pump with another of the same type though.