Questions about the Farmall Cub

[Brutalfly]

Hi this is my first post here.
I am headed over the the introduction part of the boards after I post this.

I am interested in buying a Farmall Cub and had some questions about them (I don't plan on doing it with this post)

I was wondering a few things:
1. What are the common problems with the cubs that seem to happen all the time?
2. I have an area about the size of a basketball court that I want to plow and cultivate, is this the right tractor or should I get one bigger?
3. Is there a problem with these tractors tipping?
4. Are repair parts expensive or is there places that you can go to get them cheaper?
5. What are some things that I need to educate myself on before buying one?

I am a newbie to the owning a tractor and a newbie at trying to fix things that are wrong with engines etc but with what we want to do (pumpkin patch the size of a basketball court, a descent size vegetable garden) I thought this could be a descent tractor to start with.

Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for your time

 

[Smokeycub]

Hi - and welcome to what is the best site on the net for Farmall and IH Cub, for advise, opinions, and plain old nuts and bolts info. If all you want is a tractor for your garden a Cub is a great choice, you'll need implements specific to your Cub, they're not all exactly the same. An F-Cub was designed for the small farm, initially to replace mules. The Cubs are not prone to rollover, but that's not to say it can't happen. If you think you may want PTO driven equipment, like a rototiller, then the Cub is not an option. The Cubs were designed for pull behind and belly mounted implements like bottom plows and cultivators to mention a few. You can see what was available in the links listed above like Rudi's Manual Server. Parts are pretty much readily available depending on what is needed, there is good availability on used parts too such as castings, sheet metal, etc., and used implements. Prices vary widely so prudent shopping is advised. We've had several discussions about different machines, initial investment, and so forth, and I'd suggest looking at those for some input on your questions. Here's a good link to a previous discussion on this site; viewtopic.php?f=1&t=81754&hilit=+super+a
Good luck!

 

[Eugene]

viewtopic.php?f=223&t=82204&p=657734#p657734

Another discussion of the Cub.

 

[RustyKnuckles]

A major reason for buying a Cub is that they are neat, historically significant chunks of agricultural engineering history. HOWEVER, they were designed right after WWII to be a small-farm "mule replacement," for tasks such as planting and cultivating. They do look cool, just like a small "real tractor."

If the ONLY question is one of acquiring a tool to work a garden, then I don't know it is necessarily the best choice. There are garden tractors designed in the 70s and thereafter, with more horsepower and more versatile implements, that are probably handier for gardening. You could consider Cub Cadets or tractors of other colors. Features like hydrostatic transmissions, power steering, electrically switched PTOs, power to run tiller attachments are mighty nice to have.

I have a couple of late-model garden tractors (of the green variety), and now have a Cubbie as well. But I view the garden tractors more for work, and the Cubbie more for fun. Among other things, I can imagine overhauling a Cub transmission, whereas overhauling a hydro is daunting to say the least.

Just my $0.02 !!

 

[Eoghan]

I haven't owned my cub for very long, but I'll throw some answers out there to add to what the more experienced guys have to say:

1. What are the common problems with the cubs that seem to happen all the time?

The most common issues I see are carburetor or ignition related.. Of course, that's gonna be the same with any older engine, not to mention they're easy fixes. I guess you just have to keep in mind that these are old tractors, and you ought to expect that there will be fairly constant maintenance to keep them healthy.

2. I have an area about the size of a basketball court that I want to plow and cultivate, is this the right tractor or should I get one bigger?

The Cub can handle that no problem! As others have said, they were designed to replace draft animals on farms of less than 100 acres. That's a lot of basketball courts! our "garden" is about an acre, and the cub has handled it wonderfully so far. You do have to understand however that with a plow and disc you won't end up with the fluffy seed beds of a roto-tiller.

3. Is there a problem with these tractors tipping?

They do look top heavy, don't they? I've heard of them tipping, but if you're using it in a flat field for what it was intended, you shouldn't have a problem. When I first started plowing and i didn't have it set up quite right, it kept digging deeper in each pass.. as you can imagine, it got scary real quick. i had to read the manual like 20 times before i got it dialed in, but i didn't eat any dirt.

4. Are repair parts expensive or is there places that you can go to get them cheaper?

Parts aint cheap, but they're readily available, and they're not really more expensive than any other tractor. The stuff that's hard to find is the implements, and the parts to repair them. Especially when you have the fast hitch like i do. There are a few good websites that cater specifically to cub parts, and you can find most of them in the links section of this website.

5. What are some things that I need to educate myself on before buying one?

I found that i had a lot to learn about actually farming with a tractor. My experience was in greenhouses with raised beds, so there was quite a learning curve. The information is out there, though, and I'm really enjoying it so far.

hope that helps!

 

[Glen]

Hi,
Just thought I'd write that the 1961 Farmall Cub brochure shows that IH did have a rototiller available for the Fast Hitch Cubs then, and I suppose for some years later anyway, don't know how long. Maybe one of you knows if they had them until 1979 or not. Finding one might not be easy nowadays though.

 

[Jim Becker]

The tiller in the IH brochure is the Howard Rotovator. The Rotovator has been discussed in numerous threads.

 

[RustyKnuckles]

Howard Rotovators are VERY scarce.

 

[Eoghan]

did the rotavator work with the pto as is, or did it require the little gear box to reverse and slow it down?

 

[tmays]

It will operate as is but if you don't have sandy or loose soil you probably won't be satisfied. You need the creeper gear to slow it down in heavy soil. That's why I don't own one. Can't justify the expense of both pieces.

 

[Hengy]

Hi Brutalfly... Welcome to the best forum on the internet. I'm gonna post answers in the midst of your post to give my opinions on some of these things:

1. What are the common problems with the cubs that seem to happen all the time?

Remember that these tractors are now antiques...The newest International cub is a 1979, so 35 years old. Many times they need some "refreshing" to get them in shape. Each system on the tractor has its own issues. The older the tractor the more problems. Expect them to leak oil from the seals and gaskets (I think they leaked from the factory!). Expect them to need a complete tune-up. Expect the transmission to be noisy. One place to inspect, especially on an early tractor, is the ear where the lower right corner of the engine connects to the radiator bolster. Check all implement mounting bolt holes to make sure that they are not wallowed out. Check the radiator bolster to make sure that it hasn't been cracked from freezing.

2. I have an area about the size of a basketball court that I want to plow and cultivate, is this the right tractor or should I get one bigger?

This is a nice size area to work with the little cub. Keep in mind that these tractors are not as maneuverable as you might think. If you don't have turning area or "run around" area outside of your garden plot, you'll be doing a lot of backing up and three point turning. Not a bad thing, but just something to be aware of.

3. Is there a problem with these tractors tipping?

Farmall Cubs can be tippy. The center of gravity is pretty high on them. If you have a lot of side hills, you will want to be careful how you drive them around the property. Remember that there is no ROPS on a Cub, and one cannot be fitted properly to protect the driver. The best piece of safety equipment on this tractor is the one that resides between your ears. Look your property over where you plan to use the tractor and make sure that you know any chuck holes and major slopes well. Learn how to maneuver the Cub around that area safely. If it feels unsafe to cross an area, just don't do it!

4. Are repair parts expensive or is there places that you can go to get them cheaper?

Depending on what repair parts you need, they can be relatively cheap. If you need a whole transmission, decent working units can be found for $100 - 150. Complete running engines can be had for $200 - 400. Tune-up kits are not expensive. Gaskets are not expensive, or you can make your own for cheaper. That being said, if you have a tractor which needs MAJOR repairs, they can quickly add up to more than you would spend for a decent running tractor that is ready to go to work. Check out all parts of the tractor before you buy.

5. What are some things that I need to educate myself on before buying one?

Look into the implements you need to work the garden plot you want to work. Try to find a package deal with the implements you need as the package will be cheaper than buying them separately. Is gardening all you want to do with the tractor, or are you hoping to mow, plow snow or move gravel, cultivate, plow the ground, etc? Implements can add up quickly in expense, so it is best to know what you want before you go into a deal.

I am a newbie to the owning a tractor and a newbie at trying to fix things that are wrong with engines etc but with what we want to do (pumpkin patch the size of a basketball court, a descent size vegetable garden) I thought this could be a descent tractor to start with.

Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for your time

Well, you have come to the right place. This group of folks will give you TONS of advice as you are moving through the refreshing process of a tractor such as this. That is one benefit to the Cub...this site is dedicated to just this tractor. I love my Cubs, and am happy to work with them. That being said, we all realize here that a new $20,000 tractor will do the job much more efficiently than a Cub will. Changing implements on a Cub is a chore. These puppies are HEAVY and they take some wrangling to get the mounted. That is a trade off between a $2000 - 3000 cub with implements and a $20,000 tractor with easy on/off mounting of implements.

I hope that this helps!!!

Mike in Allison Park, PA

 

[Connecticut Calvin]

I am interested in buying a Farmall Cub and had some questions about them

Hi BrutalFly - Welcome! I'm a new Cub owner myself and since my Cub "Betty" came to me with a plethora of problems I was able to really learn a great deal just by tinkering with it...and with the help of the fine folks you'll find on this site.

My question primarily is, are you looking at a specific Cub? I'm presuming by the above that you may have one in mind. I think the guys would agree that if this is the case we'd like to know what the year is, its history, its current condition and what implements it might come with. Then we can definitely lead you a little better.

Take a gander here: http://www.atis.net/CubFAQ/cub_faq.html#q10

 

[SONNY]

I ended up making a 3-point hitch for my "main" cub---THEN, I made the attachments that I needed for my 5.5 acres!I could use cat. 1 standard factory equipments, found everywhere, if I had the money, but didnt so made my own stuff.
Stay off roadsides/sidehills and you wont fall over.
they are severly underpowered, so figure on spending LOTS of time either driving or working on one.
IF used with respect and care yes you can do lots of productive work with them(I have 5 of them + 2 185 lo-boys and 1 154 lo-boy)
Super A is good choice to consider too, (140 would be better, more power and more flexible) happy hunting! thanks; sonny

 

[fl37]

If you're looking a early model Cubs (before 1955), carefully check the lower right part of the engine block where the steering bolster bolts to the block. There is a part of the block commonly called the ear with a large hole in it for the lower coolant hose to pass through and connect to the bolster/radiator. This part of the block is a well known weak spot that cracks or fails completely if some type of excessive force is applied to the front axle (e.g. right front wheel hits a pot hole or an obstacle like a tree at high speed, pulling on the front axle to free a tractor stuck in the mud, etc). Here's what I found on the block of my 1948 Cub while disassembling the engine for a complete rebuild.







The ear was completely cracked through its entire thickness and the crack was very hard to detect until engine disassembly started. That block is toast. So be careful when eyeballing potential Cubs for purchase.

Good luck.

 

[DickB]

Here on slightly sloped land, we run a 1955 Farmall Cub with a fast hitch and a reasonable collection of implements. We also garden, probably have a garden the size you mention. The tractor is banned from the garden because it is a bit too cumbersome, simply not flexible enough do all that's needed...things like hilling up short rows, or curving a row, or limited weeding with tines. Our land is clay soils and the garden will go from perfect to a slippery swamp after a few too many rainy days. Getting in and out of this mess is not for the Cub. Packing of soils from tire weight a bit of an issue too. We add lots of garden manure, straw, old hay to the soil and like to keep it light.

The Cub snowplows, hauls a garden cart, cuts field grass, hauls a manure spreader, grades driveway, pulls out rocks. It is indispensable, but for our garden we use a walk behind rototiller. It is perfect for the garden. Back and forth stuff easily done. However, we hill up our rows by hoe and hand after rototilling. A fancy BCS rototiller with attachments would be nice and over the top (meaning I'd like one), but they are too expensive. I've seen a BCS rototiller working something like a 3 acre commercial garden and marvel at its capabilities. But hand work is not going to disappear from our garden, no machine can do all that's needed...at least that's my dirty-hands opinion.

Enjoy a Cub and a garden. I find I enjoy the garden best working it by hand and rototiller, and viewing it from the Cub's seat.

 

[outdoors4evr]

You weren't real specific regarding the tasks you would like to perform while gardening. As mentioned, changing implements is time consuming. If you prefer a rototilled garden bed, you might also consider a tow-behind self powered tiller like a DR Tiller.
Here are some of the tasks that can be performed with a cub and the proper implement.
Soil Prep:
Plow
Disk
Hiller

Plant:
1 row seed planter

Cultivate:
Cultivator
Fertilizer side dress

Cleanup for End of Season:
Mowing
Light brush hogging
Sickle Bar Mowing

I only mow grass, push snow and rototill with my tractor, so I selected a 184 with a mower, 3-point hitch, and a PTO driven tiller. Since I mow some ditchbanks and hills, so I chose the 184 because it is a loboy and is not offset. This helps with the tipping situation.

 

[Brutalfly]

Thanks for all of the information everybody!
It is all greatly appreciated.
I know I have read and re-read and re-read all of it and I am trying to digest it and make sure I can take it all in before I purchase anything I don't want to get into a money pit with a family to care about.
I appreciate all the answers and all the help!!

 

[DickB]

A final thought from me: If you intend to have straight rows, the same crop for the entire row, then the Cub might be for your gardening. After all, the idea initially was for small farmers to make a go at it--look at all the tines and hillers and other implements that work with the Cub! Also, I've been told that out west there's a number of CSA-type gardens that use the Cub -- they would have a full row or more of a crop. As others mentioned, you'll want turning or backing up room at each end of the garden.