PVC pipe on snow plow blade?

I think wide rollers mounted behind the blade would be the way to go. Would keep the blade at a uniform distance from the surface. Rollers like used on the deck of mowers.
 
Hi Chad

As Moe just said. Do you know that has skids that mount to the blade and hold it up like on a truck snowplow blade. Many of theise have been worn and rusted off. Rick has been building replacemet ones for it.

Billy
 
junkman1946":2pnqzza0 said:
Remove your cutting edge, sandwich the rubber between the blade and the cutting edge.
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Wow, hasn't THIS thread taken on a life. I understand that some commercial plows have rubber or fiber cutting edges--a friend who drives one says it really fetches up when you hit dry pavement. How do you suppose a Cub would fare with that? :o Wouldn't be QUITE as bad as hitting a stump, I suppose.... :shock: :!:
 
I basicly don't put the blade all the way down on gravel anyway don't want it in the yard but on my new black top apporach I don't want it all chared up from the blade.

Cow boy I have the shoes but don't really like them. I would rather try the pvc so I can get that snow right down to the black top. Now on the gravel the shoes would be great!

PVC is cheap so if I wore out a set a week I would not care but that wont happen we don't get that much snow.
 
If the snow isnt real deep you can back drag that shouldnt marr the pavement, also you wont have all your crushed rock on the lawn in the spring, dont ask. :oops:
 
I tried te rubber bottom method and had poor results. I used a piece of very dense rubber flooring. Leaving it hang down a inch allowed it to curl under and make the plow ramp up deeper snow. With it up higher it became useless since the skid holds the plow up.
 
Chad:

It is some amazing how threads can diverge.. anyways.. maybe I should have included this in my first response. And as always, this is just my opinion and opinions are something that we all have one of -- for what it is worth.

1. Yes PVC is cheap, and if that is the route you would like to go, then I would suggest that since you will in all likelyhood require more than a 1 time shot.. you really should invest the time and make a jig that is safe and you are comfortable with, to use with the equipment YOU have :!:
PVC although inexpensive will not last long, I would think, so maybe another material is the way to go.

2. I think someone mentioned heavy rubber stripping, or rubber cutting edge, but yup, it can fetch up on dry pavement. However, if the trip spring is set right, you shouldn't have too many problems with it. But with a rubber cutting edge you are back to the same problem with the gravel sections. You solve one problem and still end up with the original.

3. One thing I discovered last night whilst finally getting some seat time..
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Yup, we finally got enough snow to do something with
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, was that the blade rides well on the skids. And if you actually use it in combination with say the rubber cutting edge or the PVC pipe, then you may get some pretty fair results.

What ever you do please do it safely and
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PVC Pipe will disintegrate in the cold temps we get up North. Yup, hit it with a hammer and POW it will break to pieces. Not sure how robust it would be on a snow blade?
 
How about that black water pipe stuff? I think its PVC with and extra letter or two in it. That might be more flexible and not break as easy?
 
Oh well, No matter what kind of pipe you use it AINT gonna clean it down to the blacktop. Round edges will climb not cut. Ever see a grader or dozer with a round cutting edge?? OK I feel better now. I didn't mean to be a smart a**. dave.
 
I do not know how much adjustment there is for the blade guides. Mabe you can put a oak rubbing block under the guides and either counter set bolts or lag screw it from the top. Then adjust guides for the right blade hight. Also about 20 years ago I built a tow sleigh for my snowmobile. I made woden runners and was able to get 1/4 inch thick plastick counter set the screws and ran that on the bottom of of the runners like the plastick covers on snowmobile ski's.

Billy
 
wow I sure caught the crap for asking about this. It was a subject of discussion here last winter and it sounded like lots of guys were doing it. But apperently not. all I wanted to do was not mess up my black top.
sorry I will scrap the idea I was just going by what guys on here said before that they had done.
Chad
 
I'll get some pictures. I made a set for a friend with a blacktop drive. The regular shoes were removed and I made a larger angle brkt that bolted to the back of the blade which accepted heavy duty rubberized swivel 4" casters. No more scratches :D .

I decided not to make anymore, cause the casters alone costs about $45.00-$50.00. Plus the bigger brkts with longated slots for fine tuning costs more. We're tight wads :shock: :D :D on this site,myself included :wink: , so $100.00 was out of the question.

Rick
 
cj,

I'm sure there must be some solution to your problem. How large of an area are we talking in terms of blacktop? Not that it matters much except for when choosing a material that won't wear out quickly. Teflon may do it for awhile, get black so you don't leave lines of white teflon everywhere.

Good luck.
 
I have like 3000 square feet of black top then 550' of crushed ashphalt so I may just have to deal with the way I have it.
 
EZ":2ywju03j said:
cj,

I'm sure there must be some solution to your problem. How large of an area are we talking in terms of blacktop? Not that it matters much except for when choosing a material that won't wear out quickly. Teflon may do it for awhile, get black so you don't leave lines of white teflon everywhere.

Good luck.
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Black teflon seems like a good idea. That way next summer when it gets so hot you could fry an egg on the driveway, it won't stick.
 
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