priming oil pump on c-60

J

JGtools

501 Club
just double checking, when I prime the oil pump on the c-60 , I can remove oil cap and add oil in the hole in the bottom of oil housing, how do most do this, I have a long skinny funnel I could try use, or is there a better method, thanks Jim
 
You can also remove the set screw that is behind the hydraulic lines on the left rear side of the engine. Just add oil until its full. I use an oil can to reach into mine. You may have to do this a couple times until you get pressure.
 
Jim - it is not the hole in the bottom of the housing. It is located inboard of the filter near the top of the housing.
 
Bigdog, what is the allen head plug for that is near the filter housing on the top for? can you prime from that hole also? thanks Jim
 
Take a look at Bill V's post, about 2 posts above. Put as much oil in the hole as you can. 15 or 20 squirts - may not take that much.

Crank the engine over with the top removed from the oil filter housing. When oil starts to be pumped into the housing - the engine is primed. Install the filter and oil filter cap. Start engine. The oil filter housing has to be almost full of oil before pressure will show on the guage. So keep an eye on the guage. Pressure should come up in 10 or 15 seconds (give or take). If no pressure shows up remove the top and check the oil filter to see if it's oil soaked. If oil soaked - probably faulty guage. If no oil on filter, prime the pump again.
 
thanks Eugene. I wish the 154 had a oil gauge, has a red dash light instead. I still might run a fitting and split the oil sensor so I can add a oil gauge.
 
Barnyard, I don't know what the machine shop used as a thread sealer, all the threaded plugs on the block had some kind of blue stuff on the threads I should have tried removing the allen head plug back by the oil pump, before installing engine in frame, lesson learned, it is stuck tight, and not moving

I will prime from inside filter housing, thanks Jim
 
JGtools":sq10bm3j said:
Barnyard, I don't know what the machine shop used as a thread sealer, all the threaded plugs on the block had some kind of blue stuff on the threads I should have tried removing the allen head plug back by the oil pump, before installing engine in frame, lesson learned, it is stuck tight, and not moving
Click to expand...
Jim, I had the same problem with my '48 engine rebuild. The two plugs that had to be removed were the one the shop installed in the crankcase vent and the one they added where the oil pressure gauge is installed. I tried everything to remove them, but eventually ended up drilling and using an "easy-out". I left the one on the rear of the engine, that is normally used for priming oil pump, alone, because I felt my luck with the "easy-outs" was running out.
 
Correct me if I am wrong but oil pump is located in the left side of the engine (when looking at it from the driver's seat). Isn't the correct method to prime is to remove the allen screw on the upper LEFT side of the rear engine (above the hydraulic lines) to prime the pump?....You really shouldn't need more than a tablespoon of oil to fill the oil pump cavity. I'm sure there is more than one way to prime the pump but I believe that what is stated above is the correct way to "prime the pump".

NJ Farmer
 
NJ , You are right, but you can also prime from inside oil filter housing, may take a bit longer this way. Jim
 
NJ Farmer":2d3ior3x said:
Correct me if I am wrong but oil pump is located in the left side of the engine (when looking at it from the driver's seat). Isn't the correct method to prime is to remove the allen screw on the upper LEFT side of the rear engine (above the hydraulic lines) to prime the pump?....You really shouldn't need more than a tablespoon of oil to fill the oil pump cavity. I'm sure there is more than one way to prime the pump but I believe that what is stated above is the correct way to "prime the pump".

NJ Farmer
Click to expand...
Exactly. But as mentioned - that plug is often very hard to remove. The hole accessable through the oil filter housing also runs to the oil pump and will prime the pump. It also gives you a visual on whether the pump is primed or not. If you crank the engine over and oil comes out of the hole you know the pump is primed.
 
Thanks what I thought. I found in my years of maintenance with allen screws is the best way to remove them is not with an allen wrench but a 1/4" or 3/8" drive set with small breaker bar or extension tube applied. (this is ofcourse after some Kroil or PB Plaster) After removal I use some Permetex non-hardening gasket sealant which will allow for removal latter in life.

NJ Farmer
 
I will need to reprime when I get my wife's cub back together and thought I would just use the allen screw near the hydraulic lines. Technically, they are BEHIND the hydraulic lines and would have to be removed from the tractor. I'll use the filter housing method.

Why would the engineers put the access directly behind where the lines are ran anyway? Would and inch either abouve or below not work?
 
I am far to young to have any knowledge but perhasps these C-60 engines might have been tested before allowed to enter the production line. If that is the case then there would be no obstructions in the way. As Bigdog stated I believe that the touchcontrol was a later option and not standard. If we were to nit-pick about the design why did they make it so difficuit to remove the cowling/fuel tank just to get to the engine compartment. What's up with the generator lube holes in the hood.....and the list goes on.

NJ Farmer

With all it faults its still the longest lasting tractor I've ever owned.
 
cubbrian":3gbl2567 said:
Why would the engineers put the access directly behind where the lines are ran anyway? Would and inch either abouve or below not work?
Click to expand...
The plug was not intended to be an access for priming the oil pump. It closes up one end of an oil gallery.
 
MY WAY TO PRIME OIL PUMP----

GET A TIRE VALVE FROM A TIRE SHOP-----REMOVE
VALVE CORE---- PUT IT AGAINST HOLE AND PUMP
IN 3 OR 4 CANS OF OIL-------


GOOD LUCK
LOMBARD--S.C.---


PS ON NEW REBUILT I PLUMB UP A GARDEN SPRAYER
WITH 2 OR 3 QT. OF OIL AND PUMP UP 20 PSI
WITHOUT OIL PAN ON ENG. AND SEE WHERE
IT IS GOING------ BEFORE STARTING-----
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top