Price
- Thread starter DanR
- Start date
voltage regulator
Active member
Hi Dan! Well, Cadets refer to a IH Cadet Lawn tractors. Big difference between the Cadets and Cub Cadets. You are most likely looking at a IH Cub Cadet 1450. That too has the 14 hp. Kohler motor. This model is a hydro-drive, known as a wide frame Quite Line Garden Tractor. Very good machines!
gitractorman
501 Club
Yes, if it's a 1976 tractor, and 14-hp, then it must be a 1450, 14-hp hydrostatic drive. Very nice machine! However, there is no drive clutch because it is a hydrostatic drive. There is an electric PTO clutch, so that may be the part that was replaced, and it is an expensive one too.
If it's in good running condition, all the parts are there, and the mower is in good shape, $850 is a good price. It's even a good price if it's running good but needs some cosmetic work. If it's a rust bucket and/or smoking or knocking, it's more in the line of $450 to $500.
If it's in good running condition, all the parts are there, and the mower is in good shape, $850 is a good price. It's even a good price if it's running good but needs some cosmetic work. If it's a rust bucket and/or smoking or knocking, it's more in the line of $450 to $500.
gitractorman
501 Club
Ok, well then you have two options. If it's a hydro, then it's a model 1250, and everything that was said above for the 1450 is the same, except for it being 12hp instead of 14hp.
However, they did make a 12hp gear drive model, model 1200, pictured above. Looks exactly like a 1250 except that it is not a hydro, and has a 3-speed gear drive with the shifter between the seat. This one will have manual lift for the mower deck/implements. It could possibly have a creeper drive too (big Bonus if it does). The creeper drive will be a small lever down on the transmission tunnel, that just goes forward or back. This is like a transfer case on a 4x4 truck, giving you High and Low range for the transmission, and gives you 3 lower gears than the standard 1st gear, along with a lower gear for reverse. This is and absolute MUST HAVE for using a snow blower or roto tiller with a gear drive tractor.
One of the biggest problems with the gear drive "quietline tractors - as this series is know by" is that the ISO motor mounts wear out, typically tearing the clutch out. If the clutch was recently replaced (as you indicated) then they should have replaced the motor mounts. If they didn't, then it will just tear out another clutch. The motor mounts are not a big deal, you just disconnect the drive shaft (lock the clutch pedal down first) unbolt the motor, and lift it up slightly. If you have an engine hoist or chain fall of some kind, you can do this without disconnecting everything else on the tractor, and just lift and hold it in place. Then you unbolt the motor mounts and install new mounts, then re-install everything.
The last two 1200 tractors that I've had I sold for $650, including the one above. Both were in similar condition. Good runners, good mower decks, very original but good condition paint.
Bill
However, they did make a 12hp gear drive model, model 1200, pictured above. Looks exactly like a 1250 except that it is not a hydro, and has a 3-speed gear drive with the shifter between the seat. This one will have manual lift for the mower deck/implements. It could possibly have a creeper drive too (big Bonus if it does). The creeper drive will be a small lever down on the transmission tunnel, that just goes forward or back. This is like a transfer case on a 4x4 truck, giving you High and Low range for the transmission, and gives you 3 lower gears than the standard 1st gear, along with a lower gear for reverse. This is and absolute MUST HAVE for using a snow blower or roto tiller with a gear drive tractor.
One of the biggest problems with the gear drive "quietline tractors - as this series is know by" is that the ISO motor mounts wear out, typically tearing the clutch out. If the clutch was recently replaced (as you indicated) then they should have replaced the motor mounts. If they didn't, then it will just tear out another clutch. The motor mounts are not a big deal, you just disconnect the drive shaft (lock the clutch pedal down first) unbolt the motor, and lift it up slightly. If you have an engine hoist or chain fall of some kind, you can do this without disconnecting everything else on the tractor, and just lift and hold it in place. Then you unbolt the motor mounts and install new mounts, then re-install everything.
The last two 1200 tractors that I've had I sold for $650, including the one above. Both were in similar condition. Good runners, good mower decks, very original but good condition paint.
Bill
Denny Clayton
501 Club
Good thinkin' :!: :lol:DanR":1u6di2ef said:
gitractorman
501 Club
Actually, both 1200 and 1250 are "even" numbers, divisible by 2 mathematically. The identifier is either xx00 or xx50, xx00 for gear drive, and xx50 for hydro drive.
The gear drives are 800, 1000 and 1200, for 8hp, 10hp, and 12hp. The hydro drive numbers are 1250, 1450, and 1650, for 12hp, 14hp, and 16hp. There was also a model 1100, which did not have side panels on the engine, had a Briggs & Stratton 11hp engine, and were belt drive with a Pierless, gear drive transmission. All of these tractors used the exact same frame, wheels, tires, mower decks, etc., so they were all nearly identical cosmetically other than the identifying model number.
The gear drives are 800, 1000 and 1200, for 8hp, 10hp, and 12hp. The hydro drive numbers are 1250, 1450, and 1650, for 12hp, 14hp, and 16hp. There was also a model 1100, which did not have side panels on the engine, had a Briggs & Stratton 11hp engine, and were belt drive with a Pierless, gear drive transmission. All of these tractors used the exact same frame, wheels, tires, mower decks, etc., so they were all nearly identical cosmetically other than the identifying model number.