Please Help !!

M

Max_Wedge

Active member
I put the carb back on the 100 and it will not run in gear w/o the choke being on. It also feels like it has less power than before. Here is what I have done and tried.
1) Cleaned all jets
2) Replaced the main needle valve
3) New bowl gasket
4) New manifold gasket
5) Set float height at 1 3/16 inches
6) Removed old fuel filter
7) Cleaned the sediment bowl
8) Cleaned the tank
9) I have raised and lowered the float travel with no effect
10) Adjusted the idle air and main needle at rest

What could it be? The amount of fuel in the bowl is about 1/2 to 5/8 of an inch deep. The strainer is clean also. The carb did not have a strainer on it to begin with, could the strainer be limiting the flow of fuel to the bowl? I am really grasping at straws because I am at my wits end.
Thanks
Max
 
If by strainer you mean an inline filter then yes, get rid of it. Some filters can seriously restrict the flow on gravity feed systems. There are some filters out there for gravity feed setups though.
 
Bigdog":1kex6r2q said:
If by strainer you mean an inline filter then yes, get rid of it. Some filters can seriously restrict the flow on gravity feed systems. There are some filters out there for gravity feed setups though.
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No, I meant the strainer in the elbow from the fuel line.
 
The symptoms you describe are related to either not enough fuel or too much air. If you are reasonably sure the fuel flow is good check for air infiltration around the manifold mating surfaces.
 
Question. When you start the tractor - does it run well for a minute or two then start to struggle?

Did you dip the carburator in carburator cleaner? I'm thinking one or both circuits in the carburator are partially plugged.

Just throwing out ideas.

Check the float drop. - Perhaps the hinge is hanging up or the tab on the back is to tight - not letting the float drop - not opening up the needle valve.

Check to see that the gasket is not covering any of the holes in the carburator body. Sometime gaskets get put on upside down.

Float travel - that's check the float drop. Gas level in the bowl - as a guess the bowl should be half full or perhaps a bit more.

If the carburator checks out. Try an unlit propane torch around the manifold with the tractor running. Air leaks sucking in the unlit propane will cause the engine to rev up.

Eugene
 
Well I did the propane trick and the ether trick. I could not detect any leaks with either, but the ether would make the engine bog down, which I thought was strange. What if I adjust the governor rod, would this help, hurt or be indifferent? I really need some help here folks.
Max
 
You didn't, by chance, leave the venturi out when you reassembled the carburetor did you? (Don't ask) Also, how many turns is the idle screw backed out.
 
What if I adjust the governor rod, would this help, hurt or be indifferent? I really need some help here folks.
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Govenor rod adjustment isn't going to make any difference. You can disconnect the govenor rod at the carburator and operate the carburator by hand.

Choke control rod and govenor rod connected to the wrong arms on the carburator. Suggest disconnecting both rods and operating the carburator by hand.

Two additional suggestions. Walk away from the tractor for a day or two - then give it another try. Have one of your farmer or mechanically inclined friends look at it.

The symptoms described are carburation.

What else have I done stupid with carburators? Put the butterfly valve in on the wrong side of the shaft. Wrong needle valve and seat in the carburator kit - seat to tall.

Eugene
 
Daniel H.":2b6ykui4 said:
You didn't, by chance, leave the venturi out when you reassembled the carburetor did you? (Don't ask) Also, how many turns is the idle screw backed out.
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The venturi is in there. Idle air screw is 1 1/2 turns and the main needle is turned 1 1/2 turns out from where it starts sputtering at high idle.
 
Eugene":p5m90oal said:
Did you dip the carburetor in carburetor cleaner? I'm thinking one or both circuits in the carburetor are partially plugged.
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I couldn't see whether this question was answered.
 
Don McCombs":3s7jdmah said:
Eugene":3s7jdmah said:
Did you dip the carburetor in carburetor cleaner? I'm thinking one or both circuits in the carburetor are partially plugged.
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I couldn't see whether this question was answered.
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I took the carb apart and ultrasonically cleaned it in the lab where I work. I pulled the main needle out, the idle jet out, pulled the bowl off, removed the floats and U/S cleaned them. Then I sprayed all openings, jets and orifices with Berryman's carb cleaner followed by compressed air. All circuits appeared to be fully open.
 
Daniel H.":kc8uj0vz said:
the main needle is turned 1 1/2 turns out from where it starts sputtering at high idle.
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Is this a Zenith carb? If so, is it a dual fuel carburetor? The gas Zenith has only one screw.
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The man at the IH shop in Urbana said this carb has a "Power Valve". Essentially, it has a screw in needle valve in the main jet. I know this Zenith to be a replacement carb. It looks very similar to a carb off of a Gravely, but the IH man showed parts for it in his book. Strangely, we could not find the carb number, but all of the parts in the schematic matched up to what I had.
 
You've got a definite fuel flow problem, so don't go adjusting anything outside the carburetor. Believe me, when you start fiddling with more than one thing, you make solving the problem 10 times harder.

It never hurts to take it all apart and start over just one more time. Check for good flow from the fuel line. Put the strainer on the end of the line just to see if it's restricting flow.

Run a fine wire through all the passages in the carb. Just squirting carb cleaner at it often times isn't enough to dislodge all the dirt and crud packed away in those crevices.
 
Max, or anyone for that matter, what type "carb" should be on the 100? I looked at the eBay link that was posted, and that's a Zenith apparently for a Graveley? Only reason I'm asking is that I live fairly close to you, as I live in Yellow Springs. Just wondering if I might have a "Spare" carb to transplant onto your tractor to see if we can at least get it running?
 
Into Tractors":3j55wck7 said:
Max, or anyone for that matter, what type "carb" should be on the 100? I looked at the eBay link that was posted, and that's a Zenith apparently for a Graveley? Only reason I'm asking is that I live fairly close to you, as I live in Yellow Springs. Just wondering if I might have a "Spare" carb to transplant onto your tractor to see if we can at least get it running?
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Mike, I have no idea as to what should be on it. I finally found the carb number and it is listed as a replacement carb, but also found the number on Gravely sites with rebuild kits. I will be in Amish Country until Tues evening, then we have the Fair next week. Maybe we can get together after that and see what we can come up with.
Max
 
Max, this week is pretty full for me as well. Dealing with some family issues and working way too late. I'm still at the office as I took off early both Thurs & Fri to tend to some family issues. Still hoping to make it to CubTug for Saturday.

Tell you what, if you don't figure something out by the 1st of next week, contact me and we'll see what we can come up with. I'll talk to a few folks up at CubTug on Sat and see what the consensus might be?
 
Max Sounds to me like you might be sucking air. Check the carb mounting gasket Is it new? If you overtightened the mounting studs you may have warped the mounting flange causing an air leak. Just my humble opinion. Frank
 
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