pilot bushing removal

T

tomten farm

Well-known member
So I've got the old motor off and am readying the new motor for installation.

One of the bolts holding the flywheel on is missing, hopefully i can scare one up locally.

How does one exactly remove that pilot bushing? The new motor going on still has the old one in there. Special tool? (no got)... Ideas for a workaround?

Also, the clutch kit i got doesn't have an alignment tool and I don't have a spare shaft hanging around. Any ideas?

thanks,
joe
 
Find rod or wooden dowel that will fit in the pilot bushing tightly. Fill the bushing with grease. Stick the rod or dowel in the bushing and hit the end of the rod or dowel with a hammer and the pilot bushing will pop out.
 
I used a tap that just started to screw into the bushing. Once the tape was about half way in the bushing broke loose and pulled right out.
 
Another method. Broken hacksaw blade. Cut almost all the way through the bushing. Take a thin screwdriver and bend one side of the cut in. Or punch the screwdriver down on the outside of the bushing adjacent to one side of the cut.
 
By the way an old trans shaft cut off will align the clutch and works great as a ram to get the pilot bushing out too :wink:

Boss
 
Boss Hog":1i0g1ojw said:
By the way an old trans shaft cut off will align the clutch and works great as a ram to get the pilot bushing out too :wink:

Boss
Click to expand...
Boss, I tried to e-mail mine to him, but it wouldn't go through :{_}: Ed
 
As far as "pilot bushing removal" go to "How To Forum" and type in same. Pictures displayed here will help. Good luck.

P.S. Bigdog told me how this technique worked ... just like a charm.

Kit
 
A small wooden dowel, wrapped with two different rows of tape, will make an excellent alignment tool. The innermost row of tape is sized to fit snug inside the pilot bushing, then a second row laid behind that to fit the inside of the clutch disc splines. I've got one that was used, and is still good for a second use! By the way, you can substitute freely for any of the ingredients listed above, so long as you understand the concept. :o
 
That's what I did, the old duct tape bushing round the dowel trick.

The block is now mated back to the front bolster and the torque tube, and it's time to put all the bits back on. Adjusting the clutch travel looks like it will be interesting as machine is a '47 and the adjustment is there inside the torque tube rather than outside by the clutch pedal as the newer models have.

For the the splitting stand i used a cheapo transmission jack strapped to the torque tube just behind the engine. - (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=39178) - It was a bit cheesy, but workable.

A new (used) starter and generator are on their way from Ralph, and as soon as the hydraulic TC rebuild kit arrives I'll open that up and hopefully renew that guy.
 
Tom, Those ideas already advanced sound great. I've also used a pair of vise grips made into a slide hammer by removing the adjustment bolt and replacing it with a long one with a slide weight on it.
Also, I've used a combination of 3/8 and 1/2 drive extensions and sockets to act as a clutch alignment tool.
 
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