Does anyone have experience with painting enamel on top of a powder coat primer? I took my rims to be sandblasted and was directed to a place that works almost exclusively refinishing truck rims. They said they'd bead blast the rear weight, rim, and spoke, plus powder coat on gray primer for $60. Not bad. I like the idea of getting the rims back already primed but am concerned about getting a top coat of enamel to stick to the powder coating. Some think I'll need to rough up the powder coated primer to get a top coat of enamel to stick. I may end up being better off just to have them bead blasted and spray on primer myself. Anyone have any experience/suggestion? Thanks.
Painting on top of powder coat primer
- Thread starter drumred
- Start date
Drumred, A lot of Cub owners on the Forum have had their rims powdercoated the final color, both for the appearance and durability. Have you inquired as to the extra cost of having that done?
Bob
Bob
Yeah, the place that I took the rim specializes in re-finishing truck rims. Only two colors, white and gray. I think I'll just pick them up in the morning and take to be sandblasted. It's a further drive but I'll end up not having to re-sand and worry about paint peeling off. Thanks gusy.
Gary Boutwell
501 Club
DRed,
Good Call!
I have heard some horror stories about powdercoating.
Stuff seems to peal off after a time.
Can't beat sandblasting, prep oxide, primer, and a good quality paint.
Good Call!
I have heard some horror stories about powdercoating.
Stuff seems to peal off after a time.
Can't beat sandblasting, prep oxide, primer, and a good quality paint.
Gary Boutwell":tbd863f8 said:
Gary, what is 'prep oxide' ? Also, what paint do you use? A local PPG store had International red but it requires adding a hardener. I'm not that use to pressure spraying but can tell you that that paint is a bear. If you want to paint small amounts it's hard to measure out the small amount of hardener needed. If you forget to stir, which I did once, you've messed up a paint job. And finally, it dries so darn fast that is gums up the sprayer, which means you need to spray small amounts and back to the hardener problem. I think the paint is more for big automotive type sprays and I'm looking for something a bit easier to use.
Bob in CT":meli3fup said:
Bob, I am. I've got a charcoal breather mask and gloves (rubber ones, I'll check on the nitrile). Do you use the hardener? I'm heading back to the paint store today to talk about paint as my mixes are drying too fast. I can gum up 16oz in the sprayer before getting 2/3 through, and I'm not dilly dallying.
drumred":2ntj0cp5 said:
This is what I was afraid of. A charcoal canister will not protect you from isocyanates. They stop absorbing the hardener after a couple of minutes and they continue to absorb the solvents (isocyanates have no odor) giving you a dangerously false sense of security. Please read this thread like your well being depends upon it. Once you get sensitized to the chemicals, your life will change.
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=31132&p=246001&hilit=isocyanates#p246001
me painting with hardener:
There is an air pump behind the garage supplying fresh air to the hood I am wearing. I use charcoal canisters for mixing paint and toss them every day.
As far as the paint goes, it is kicking over because the paint is too warm or there is too much hardener. Sounds like you may need a reducer to thin the paint too to get it through the gun. That 2150 is pretty thick stuff but I never sprayed it. I am sure you can get better advice on that from someone else.
Bob, I've decided to change course and head to the local implement store where they carry International red, pre-mixed paint. If I was working on a show tractor it might be different but I just want to protect metal and a working tractor. The ready made enamel will do that with less hassle and danger. Besides, my wife probably doesn't have the patience for this learning curve. smile
drumred":1823uepk said:
You can use 2150 without a hardener. Many of us have. Just thin it down a bit so it will spray well and you will have the original factory finish. My neighbor sprayed one of my tractors and I ended up brush painting the final drive castings when I replaced them due to broken implement hole. It look great and holds up well. I use 2150 rattle cans for implement work now. It is a lot easier.
Bob, my Lowes paint didn't pan out either, unless you like your Farmall Cub to have a bit of a pinkish color. One step forward, two back. I did figure out a spray gun problem, I didn't know about the screen below the paint cub and, of course, they were getting clogged. A Jim on the board suggested International paint from Tractor Supply. But they recommend hardener too. I need to learn more about hardener. I'm guessing you have to add as you go. This makes it difficult for smaller runs but, Tractor Supply also sells the rattle cans that I could use for smaller part runs.
drumred":3lvxb65l said:
I would order original IH 2150 red in quarts, gallon or rattle cans. You will not be disappointed. Their rattle cans have an excellent spray nozzle that makes a nice wide flat fan spray. Excellent for a rattle can. Order it by mail order from Carter and Gruenewald http://www.cngco.com/
To answer the original question..... I have done this. Had front rims media blasted and light-gray powder coated. The rims were pretty rough, so the powder coat has a lot to hang on to. :mrgreen: Roughed up the powder coat with a green 3M pad, wiped 'em down with Acryliclean and used 2150 in a rattle can. Two years now and they still look good.
matt
matt
Bob in CT":fujkrwuu said:
Bob, I was using a 3M organic vapor mask, not carbon filter. I only used a few time and so don't think I over worked the filters. Still, I wasn't using a full face mask, only safety glasses for eyes, rubber gloves and long shirts, and painting just outside the house. I was casually sold these items from a PPG store and told it would be what was needed. My fault for not reading up better but the guys at the store were casual about it and so was I. Thanks a bunch for alerting me. This is really not the route I want to go as I'm not wanting a show tractor, just a decent paint job.
John(videodoc)
501 Club
i dont know about painting on powder coat, but i know about having to repowder coat. one of my rims, my powder coat guy did a rim the wrong color and fought it for three days sandbalsting trying to get the wrong color (red) off. so he could put the silver on. It still shows through on the inside of the rim.
Thanks Matt. I guess in hindsight I should have gone that route but was leary of the paint sticking. I can always go back later and rework. I had a heck of a time finding the International 2150 paint. I guess it's a no-brainer for many to go to a Case/Cub tractor dealership but I didn't think of it until Bob in CT said he'd gotten his paint from a dealer in Wisconnsin I believe. I then started looking and found a dealer south of here that carries International paint and even restores Cubs. So they had the 2150 in Gallons, Quarts, and rattle cans and the seals I'll need. I'm still looking and asking people with Cubs in this area for someone that might have an appropriate front pulley puller. Oh, and Bob in CT, I was using nitrile gloves, just didn't realize that. I ended up getting the correct paint and taking the tank and fenders to a you kid getting started in the body work business around the corner. He's been helpful with guestions and I'm going to let him build up the dings and coat these big parts with the 2150. 'A man's got to know his limitations.' dirty Harry
drumred":1k5wq5x2 said:
An appropriate front pulley puller that will not damage the front pulley is NOT an off the shelf item.
This is Earl's design which is one of the best front pulley puller's available. It is a custom made unit.
I am trying to get uptodate ordering info for the Specialty Services pages... should have it shortly. In the meantime there are a few folks in the area that may pop in and help.
You can search for Front Pulley Puller in the Advanced Search.. there are a number of different versions/options available. One of the big problems is busting the flanges.