Ordering decals

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dhermesc

Well-known member
Anyone have a suggestion?


Right now I'm looking at Maple-Hunter (haven't contacted them yet). They show a decal kit for a 125 for $42 but I don't know what it all includes. The only other one I've checked out is Binder Books - they do show a picture of what they are selling (hood, dash, steering wheel, tunnel cover and headlight block out decals) for $56.95. Any specific reason to go with one or the other - or any other suggestions?
 
I got two sets off of Maple-Hunter. One for my 169 and one for a 149. I'm about ready to order a set for a 1650 from them actually. Mine came with every decal needed for a ground up restoration.

I like using the stock tin dash even if it's not perfect, it feels more original than the decal. When I order my set I am going to see if they will exclude that from the set and try to save some cash.

Hope this helps!
 
I was just going to ask a similar question... Where is the best place to buy decals. It looks like Maple-Hunter has the best prices. I'm in the process of restoring a CC 124, so I'm almost at the point of ordering decals as well.

Thanks,
Bill
 
I like the decals sold by Scott Urschel, http://www.urschelsccc.com/ , and have used them for several years. They may cost a bit more for some models, but are a very good quality and the colors are the correct shades. The Maple Hunter decals are also of a good quality, and I have bought decals from them, but at one time the shade of blue used on the QL decals was much darker than what IH originally used. It is my understanding that was to be corrected, don't know if it has been or not. It is all in what you like, and there are several people that offer decals, but decals from these two are the only ones I have used, and can comment on.
 
I think I've seen a few QLs with the darker blue on the decals. The color doesn't even come close to matching if this is what we are talking about. They look very cheap and almost "home made".
 
On my 70 cub cadet I repainted the rusted hood and put on a new set of decals. I did clear coat the hood over the decals to seal them in good. I'm hoping they don't fade or peal, if not they should last a longtime. I'm just hoping for a way to make the new decals last. Plus the clear coat puts a nice shine and glow on the hood too. And you don't need to be that fussy with spraying the hood when a few coats of clear coat will be used after painting. Sometimes when spray painting you miss keeping it wet and get dull lines from over spray the clear coat makes it all look the same gloss. When spraying outside the sunlite it can make it hard to keep the paint lines even. I'm not bad at spray painting but it nice know the clear coat can fix the dullness areas. You hood will look like a pro did it.

I just received a set of decals for my 1200 and the blue is darker than my orginal decals were.
 
I got the clear plastic coat enamel at TSC next to the valspar paints. My 1200 decals came from http://www.ccspecialties.org/ they were a little pricy though. I did receive all the decals that are on the tractor for the dash, hood, side covers (quiet line) and the drive shaft tunnel.

I just finished clear coating my hood and side panels and they came out perfect. I used the valspar international white and the plastic kote clear enamel. The clear went over the decals with no problem.

I been trying to skip over that i need new decals for all my tractors on my want list but i can't anymore. I need to buy one set a month rather than all of them at the sametime. I guess i'll buy them as i paint them up.
 
Maple Hunter decals on my 100:
h300.jpg

h302.jpg

h301.jpg

Part of the grill area needs touch up. 100 was in a wreck involving a deer.
The tractor broke loose during the accident and ran into the rear of another Cub.
Repair cost to my Suburban and enclose trailer were around $8500.
Most important thing is no one was hurt.
 
Your 100 looks awesome!!!! On my 100 the PO crashed it on the grill frame and bent the lower frame back. Instead of taking it apart to bend the frame back he knotched out the rear of the hood to miss the steering wheel. He also knotched out were the pto lever is on the pto clutch. Luckily i found another hood and grill frame on ebay to replace the butchered parts. To me the narrow frames seem more like a tractor, i'm not sure what it is. I can't wait to get all my cub cadets restored. Then i can sit back and run and wash them.

Ok i found out something else today about using a clear coat over the valspar international white. I had a bug land on my hood and my side panel yesterday, they were out to get me during the clear coat and ruin my spray job. Luckily i had a few coats of clear on it by then. Today after its hard I took some fine sand paper and removed the spot. I then taped off my decal area so no over spray could hit it and repainted the spot with international white. It went right over the clear coat. Now i just need to do the clear coat again. This means if we get our hoods scratched or nicked they can be repaired by just touching it up. The clear coat looks so awesome on the cub cadet parts. I may try it on the rear fender too. I'm sure it will protect the colors from fading too.
 
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