Oil pump

H

Hairy Moose Knuckles

Well-known member
I watched the engine overhaul video. As they were putting everything back together he stated he knew his oil pump was good because it had good pressure before they tore it apart.

When you guys rebuild your engines, or you have one that hasn't run in years, what do you do?

Are oil pumps something that doesn't go bad often? How come a replacement is as rare as hen's teeth?
 
You answered your own question, on these old low rpm engines oil pumps fail so seldom there is no call for them so hardly anyone makes or sells rebuilt ones anymore. if you need one you can probably ghet it through a real auto parts store, such as Carquest, Napa, or maybe O'reilly. or through an engine rebuilder.
 
Thanks John. I sort of figured that must be the case as about all I could find was a gasket set. I did see one listed, but it must have been made of gold.
 
The cover plate on the bottom of vertical oil pumps will sometimes have wear where the gears touch the plate. Fix is to polish the plate on some 600 or 800 grit sand paper and a flat surface such as a pane of glass.
 
At most, get some 400 grit sand paper and a piece of plate glass. Take the bottom cover off--you'll probably see where the pump gears have been rubbing on it--and sand it on the plate glass until the wear marks are gone. Put back together with a new gasket--don't use gasket maker or anything, use a new caseIH gasket.

Al
 
During an overhaul, the oil pump should be opened up and inspected on any of the C-113 based engines. The bottom cover will have wear as Al described. Besides that, the cover will often show some warping. When it is bad enough, the gasket can blow out, vastly reducing the oil flow. The fix for wear also takes care of the warping. Lap it in as Al said using a figure eight motion.

I would question an overhaul video that skips this check and wonder what else he left out. Did he mention the hollow stud in the head?
 
Eugene and Al,
Thanks for those descriptions and how to's. I really appreciate you.




Jim,
The audio on my tape wasn't great, but he briefly mentioned something about a stud. I've watched it twice trying to figure out what he said.

Can you elaborate?


Also, what about the screen? How would you clean it?
 
The rocker arm shaft is held in place on top of the head by 3 supports. The middle one is held by a nut (along with a very important flat washer) that threads onto a hollow stud. The stud is drilled on one end and the side. The hollow end goes down. Pressurized oil goes into the bottom end and out the side of the stud. It then flows through a passageway in the support to lubricate the rocker arm and the rest of the top end. You need to be gentle when tightening the nut as the stud is very easy to twist off. People have been known to install the stud bottom side up, or after loosing or twisting it off, replace it with a plain stud or a bolt. Any of these assembly errors will result in cutting off all lubrication of the top end. I would not try to remove the stud, as it is may twist off. After the engine is restarted, make sure there is oil flow to the top and take corrective action as needed.

I would soak the float/screen assembly in cleaning solvent. Then use a brush to clean the screen from the outside and rinse with solvent. I would not try to disassemble the float/screen assembly. I've never seen crud inside the tube, but if there were I would go after it with a fairly stiff wire and a rag. I bottle brush won't work because the tube is curved.
 
Jim,

Thank you for that very useful information. That was NOT mentioned in the video or at least as best as I could follow along it wasn't. I don't believe anything was mentioned about making sure the top end was being lubricated. I'll watch it again to be certain though. The video was NOT very detailed in my opinion. The only part(s) of the video that were detailed was making sure to keep the dots lined up on the gears to make sure timing was easier.

Of course this is only my second time to see the inside of an engine. About 50 years ago, I tore into a 350 Chevy, but that was just for fun as a teenaged boy.

I used to wrench on my ol hotrod, but nothing complicated, just tuneups, oil changes and such.
 
Pay close attention to what Jim said about that hollow stud. I was working on a friends B414 IH (British made), and since I was not familiar with that engine I decided to run it a little before installing the valve cover. You guessed it, no oil coming out around the rocker arms. I called John down at JP Tractor Salvage since I figured he was the only one in this part of the country that would know anything about it, and he told me the cap screw for the center rocker was hollow. I first checked the other 2 hold down bolts, then checked the bolts I had not yet installed, and sure enough, there it was with a copper sealing washer on it. Put it in, and problem solved, plus a head saved.
 
Jim, I thought I had found that washer you mentioned. The head stud by the rocker assembly has a nut that's smaller than the rest and it looked to have a washer, but that's not the hollow studd. I found the hollow studd on the head and the oil hole, but don't see a washer. I'll have to locate one
 
I just looked in the parts catalog. It shows the center nut with no washer and the other 2 with a lock washer. A lock washer under the center nut would give a path out for oil. I thought they substituted a flat washer, but maybe it was assembled with no washer.
 
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