Oh No! My wife drove the Cub LoBoy for the first time in 10 years! And had clutch problems!

Below is a post from the How To forum by Bill Hudson showing splitting stands.
The one in the 5th picture down, with the wheel, looks handy. The stand will need to be shorter for a LoBoy, he says that below the last picture in the post.
B

Thread 'Cub Splitting Stands – Three Types'

Some have asked how I made the stands, so here you have it.

The pair of splitting stands that I have are ones that many people have purchased. After just a very few uses, I was less than satisfied with their functionality. Using the excellent How To http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=37936 prepared by Gary Boutwell, I added a few things to meet my needs.

I will give just a few dimensions because the stands themselves will depend on the size of casters you use. The uprights will depend on the size of both the casters and the scaffold jacks you use.

The materials used...
 
If it were me, rather then risk damage with the unknown and unseen I would split it. I had to split the SC twice because I was uncertain about how I put together the TOB/clutch... The splitting is easy it is just removing the gas tank and disconnecting things that is tedious.
 
Jim Becker said:
Your sig "Stan" got tacked on the end of the link address. You usually put a space between the end of your post and your signature. The space is missing.
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OK, thanks Jim. Now I understand what happened and will try to be careful to not do anything that changes the link that is copied. One more lesson to remember about computer stuff. Stan
 
I finally got back to the Cub Throw-Out-Bearing ordeal. I pushed it into the shop and loosened the clutch pedal bolt so I could swing the throw-out-bearing all the way out away from the clutch fingers as far as it would go. In this position I could see most of the surface of the carbon bearing, and put my hand in there to actually feel around the bearing all the way to the top. And about 2/3 of the bearing on the bottom is smooth and covered with grease but as I slide my fingers up toward the top there is about a third of it that is chipped out or indented maybe 1/8 of an inch. And that is why when depressing the clutch pedal with the engine running it makes that buzzing sound and I can feel vibration in the clutch pedal, and I can't put it in gear. So, where is a good place to purchase a throw-out-bearing. I saw the suggestion to go to the Case/IH dealer, but most of the parts they sell are grossly overpriced and all made in China? And I also need to order the hydraulic line gaskets and or seals. Anything else?
 
You can compare prices with forum sponsors like TM Tractor and Hamilton Bob's.. Stan
I checked those two, TM Tractor lists graphite TOB for $47, HB only shows the ball bearing style for about $75.
 
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Dave Downs said:
I thought the ball bearing style throw out bearing was to be avoided?
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Yes, the metal one I installed, lasted about a year. The Cub TOB goes through a slight arc as the clutch pedal is depressed. So, in addition to the sliding contact of the fingers against the TOB, there is a vertical sliding motion of the TOB. A steel TOB bearing doesn't like that type of motion.
 
Dave Downs said:
I thought the ball bearing style throw out bearing was to be avoided?
Click to expand...
I listed these for info only since the earlier post named both as a possible source for price comparison. There's a note on TM Tractor's listing that says the CASEIH part is NLA as a USA made part, only import made is available. Stan
 
I ordered the bearing and o-rings/gasket for the hydraulic pipes from TM Tractor this morning. So now it's out to the shop to start tearing the Cub down and disassembling it for the bearing replacement. Of course I had just filled the gas tank before this event. And of course in all conversations with family and friends I mentioned my need for a hand to take the top off the Cub. So far, no offers for help as they are all City people and wouldn't dare touch anything that might have grease on it?
 
DonMountain said:
.......... no offers for help as they are all City people and wouldn't dare touch anything that might have grease on it?
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Yup, BTDT!! Good (any) help is hard to come by. Once you remove the fuel and get it all disconnected to the point where some help is needed maybe you might talk the spouse into directing (and demonstrating) getting the tank/hood set off on a support bench. Good Luck. :giggle: Stan
 
I have most of all the stuff disconnected on the Cub LoBoy from front engine section to rear wheel section, and was getting ready to pull the hydraulic lines. Where will all the hydraulic oil go when disconnecting them? Should I put a container under the pump end and pull that end first? Or a pan under each end and unbolt both ends to get clearance to drain? And I assume that I need to just refill with new HyTran when I put it all back together and waste this oil?
 
I would first remove the fill plug to make sure there is no pressure on the system, then drain it from the pump end (lowest point). You're going to have to disconnect the lines from both ends anyway so there's going to be some fluid drain from each point. I recommend that you use new CaseIH Hytran or a compatible replacement oil. It does not take a lot (3 1/2 pt) so not a big expense. After reassembly, just remember to cycle the lift 10-12 times with the engine running and fill point open to get the air out of the system. JMHO Stan
EDIT: While you have the hood off it's an excellent time to lubricate the fan shaft (easy access to the fill screw).
 

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