New to me Farmall Cub - First oil change

cdahl383

Well-known member
I just bought a 1949 Farmall Cub yesterday and I'm going to pick it up later this evening. I wanted to get it home, clean it up, and then change the oil and filter. I found a Napa/Wix filter for it. But I'm having a hard time deciding what oil to use. I've read a lot of stuff on this forum and the opinions/advice are all over the map.

Here are my questions:

1.) Non-detergent vs detergent oil?
2.) SAE30, 15W40, 10W30, etc?

I've read where you shouldn't run detergent oils in these old engines as it will break up the sludge that's caked up in the engine from over the years. Then I've read where it's perfectly fine and that's not really true anymore. More than likely, at some point since 1949 someone along the way has switched to a regular detergent oil. So should I try to find a good non-detergent oil (which most seem to say lubricating oils for air compressors) or just go with a regular detergent oil?

I've seen oil weight recommendations all over the place too. SAE 30, 15W40, 10W30, etc. I live in Michigan, so it's a little colder right now, but it will be warming up here soon now that spring is here. I thought SAE 30 might be good during the spring/summer/fall and then maybe change to 10W30 for the winter. Thoughts?

Maybe I'm just overthinking this as I've never owned a tractor before, let alone a piece of machinery from the 1940's! Just don't want to mess it up.
 
This is an age-old question on this forum. If you did a search on this subject on the forum, you could spend days reading all the responses.

Simply put, you can use whatever you use in your car or truck.Todays technology allows almost any oil to be used in a Cub. I use 10w30.
 
Which oil? How to start an argument?

Michigan. You can use the same multi-weight oil year around.

My recommendation, detergent oil and a couple of engine oil and filter changes. Use whatever brand oil you wish, but something for combustion engines. Not synthetic oil.

I use 20w-50 generic brand engine oil in all my ag type machines. Why? I buy oil by the case and it's easier to have one oil on hand, rather than several brands-weights.
 
Don't worry about detergent vs. non-detergent. You can't hardly get non-detergent engine oil anymore. You have to LOOK long and hard to find it.

Most likely whoever you bought it from didn't pay any attention and just used whatever oil was handy in it. That is if they changed the oil at all lol.
 
I run shell rotella t 15-40 year round.

Easy to find, and I use it in other stuff.

Usually buy it by the 5gal pail.
 
In my opinion if you are buying the tractor from someone who has had it and used it for a while ask them what they used. Most people I know use detergent oil and have for a long time. My brother-in-law is a retired auto mechanic he would tell you the motors that have problems with starting to use detergent oil are most often ones that had the old STP additive used in them for a long time. I saw him take the tappet cover off one years ago. There was so much STP residue on the inside of the cover that it had a perfect imprint of the valve springs and rocker shaft in the cover. Again that is my opinion based on what he and other mechanics I know have told me.
 
Rule of thumb, you should use non-detergent oils in engines without oil filtration and detergent oils in engines with an oil filter. Detergents in oil suspends the dirt in the oil so it can be stripped away by the filter. Non-detergent oil allows the dirt to drop from the oil into the oil pan so it doesn't stay in circulation.
 
I changed oil in two new to me cubs recently. On one the filter drainpipe was completely clogged up. I had to use a long screwdriver to open the drainpipe. (The hood was installed.) The second one the oil in the filter drainpipe was like extremely thick sludge. I had the hood off, so I separated the filter screw from the cap and just installed the screw to keep the sludge from going into the engine. I was then able to clean out the filter base and let the sludge run down the filter drainpipe.
 
I am in west Michigan. I have used 10w40 in my Ferguson TO-30 and Farmall 560 for several years, year around, but I admit I am always pondering these issues as well. I had to remove the oil pan on the 560 for another issue and was impressed with how clean it was and how little evidence there was of wear on the bearings (as evaluated by an experience old tractor rebuilder) or sludge. So even though the 10w40 has served me well I switched both tractors to 10w30 from Napa this last fall. For the '48 Cub when I first brought it home there was solid gum in the filter drain tube, and a fair amount of sludge in the valve tappet gallery. I used a garden sprayer to wash down the valve gallery with diesel fuel as much as possible flushing out the oil pan and then I switched to 10w40. I was planning to do several quick oil changes. But as I was working on the tune-up and fluid changes I found many other problems, which evolved to understanding that the engine was shot with very little compression, pieces of metal (chopped up roll pin) in the oil pan, clutch problems, etc. So I am now on the long road rebuilding the tractor. I just assembled the engine, with the help of the good folks here, far enough to start painting it, but I still need to get it back on the tractor and address a bunch of other issues with the clutch, steering, front axel, etc, before I can get it running. When it comes to adding oil back in, it will probably be a 10w30. Phill
 
I prefer to use use napa 1153 filters, as they come with a rubber gasket , Pennzoil 30 weight detergent conventional oil. All year , in central Minn.
 
New to the Cub world. I just bought a Super A last week at a farm auction. This is going to be a great site to learn more about these tractors. Thanks.
 
Thanks for all the replies!

I ended up using Valvoline SAE30 non-detergent oil along with a Wix oil filter. I found out the hard way there is a copper washer that goes between the oil filter lid and bolt haha! Leaked a lot of oil out. I replaced the copper washer so hopefully that fixes that.
 
timtires":873njllp said:
New to the Cub world. I just bought a Super A last week at a farm auction. This is going to be a great site to learn more about these tractors. Thanks.
Keep in mind, there are many differences between a Cub and a Super A.
 
Good Evening. I had the same question. plus one more.. AS TO OIL. yes, the manual says [for a 1966 cub LOW Boy} -"DO NOT USE SAE 10W-30 OR 40 above 32 degrees". I have found on this forum many times the advice i got was always: 'WELL WHAT DOES THE MANUAL TELL YOU TO DO ?" but it seems the consensus above is all - sae 10w is fine? [frankly i dont even know where to get what Manual says to use - IH Low Ash Oil. comments anyone ? :0) A RELATED LUBE QUESTION: not oiling but greasing question . when i grease the rear PTO, I Never have any grease come out after pumping a LOT in.the zerk . someone replied "WELL IT IS GOING NTO THE GEAR BOX THEN".. is that true? is that ok? shouldnt something come out along the shaft? nohting ever has since . is that ok? :0/ ... oh one more thing :0) oh.. as long as I got folks here who know about this stuff...and who have changed this filter on a Cub Lo Boy... can i get the correct size gasket anywhere? the manual does not give a part specification or size.. [i wondered if i should be sending away here to a historic tractor supply or just the local Tractor Supply type dealer THANKS ! FOLKS here have helped me a lot in the past on other repairs on this thing when i pulled it all apart .. :0) good night.. oh happy easter too.
 

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Scott 1234":3n528zlq said:
Good Evening. I had the same question. plus one more.. AS TO OIL. yes, the manual says [for a 1966 cub LOW Boy} -"DO NOT USE SAE 10W-30 OR 40 above 32 degrees". I have found on this forum many times the advice i got was always: 'WELL WHAT DOES THE MANUAL TELL YOU TO DO ?" but it seems the consensus above is all - sae 10w is fine? [frankly i dont even know where to get what Manual says to use - IH Low Ash Oil. comments anyone?
Cub and Lo-boy manual 3-20-68-2a
Page 65

Straight 10w is like sewing machine oil, right? :lol:

Shell Rotella T 15w-40 is low ash. John Deere sells low ash.
I am betting all oils made for diesels is a low ash oil!

Scott 1234":3n528zlq said:
A RELATED LUBE QUESTION: not oiling but greasing question . when i grease the rear PTO, I Never have any grease come out after pumping a LOT in.the zerk . someone replied "WELL IT IS GOING NTO THE GEAR BOX THEN".. is that true?
Yep!

Scott 1234":3n528zlq said:
is that ok? shouldnt something come out along the shaft? nohting ever has since . is that ok?
Cub and Lo-boy manual 3-20-68-2a
Page 70
Number 20
"After every 100 hours of operation"
"Apply one or two strokes with the lubricator."

Scott 1234":3n528zlq said:
:0/ ... oh one more thing :0) oh.. as long as I got folks here who know about this stuff...and who have changed this filter on a Cub Lo Boy... can i get the correct size gasket anywhere? the manual does not give a part specification or size..
Cub and Lo-boy manual 3-20-68-2a
Page 63
Says to reuse cover gasket

I have a question. What is :0 for?
 
Hi,
Below is the lubrication table page from the 1965 Cub and LoBoy operator's manual that they have on here, it doesn't mention not using the oils you said above. Nor does the 1966 operator's manual on here. I have seen that in other operator's manuals, but I don't see it in those manuals. It is below the other info on the page, when it is there.
I don't know the reason they say to not use the oils, IH may have thought they were too thin, but that is just a guess.
I can't post the 1966 manual page here. It is in the group of manuals that won't post here.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-64.jpg

The IH Low Ash motor oils were what IH sold at their dealers, Case IH dealers might still have it, I don't know.

Below is a listing for the oil filter, gasket, and washer at TM Tractor.
They have the gasket alone also.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/en/114fp.htm

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/en/136fp.htm

TM Tractor is at the bottom of most pages on here.

The PTO grease fitting is for the ball bearing at the rear of the PTO.
When you grease it, no grease should come out the rear of the shaft, there is an oil seal there.
The excess grease goes ahead, and could go into the housing. If there was lots, it could fall down into the gear oil, and be gone.
Below is a pic from TM tractor of the parts of a Cub PTO. I don't have a pic with the part in the upper part of the pic turned with the front towards the camera, the grease can come out ahead of the bearing.
 

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Evening friends. Thanks for advice.
Yes. :0). Is old way of doing a meme. The :0/. Is old way
Of doing one expressing a question or such
I guess I’m old school I’m typing
Thanks on PTO info also and grease. Yeh I do give it some
( as someone suggested per manual) so hopefully I am fine.

I must have missed the automatic emails when some of you
Posted your replies and comments above (normally I thought
I got some sort of email saying new post. Whatever I must have forgotten to reclick the notification )

As I am typing this. I am just coming in from thr fields
(Xmas trees) so I guess I’ll be posting tonight my next
Inquiry- any “easy” explanation for - it just dying in the field - Then With a turn of the key. It starts up ( figure first water in gas ⛽️) but that’s not it. Next guess is carb blockage.
Well I’ll post a separate post to start the expert advice
Flowing. Good evening. Scott. Oh and .. :0)
 
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