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Kyle S88

Member
Hi Everybody!

I bought a project earlier this summer and I am just starting to get around to it. One week before my daughter was born (1st child), I bought a 1948 Super A from a gentleman that lived down the road from me. He had been using it for the last 35 years to cut his grass and plow snow. He bought a z-turn and a JD 1025 to replace it (sad it takes two pieces of equipment). He gave me the original owners manual, wheel weights, tire chains, couple of drawbars, PTO pulleys, Woods L59 mower (with new belt) and plow blade (with lift mechanisms).

Did I need this project, no. Does it make my wife happy, probably not. Does it put a smile on my face every time I look at it, you betcha.

My plan is to restore it. The last time I messed with one of these was 1o years ago, and it was just an A. I got the Woods mower on (cut the back 40 the other day), but am looking for any ideas on how the plow blade is attached.

By the way, I have never used a forum, so I don't know how to post a picture.

Cheers!
 
Welcome to the forum! You found the right place for answers you may have. I'm not an "A" guy, but there are plenty others here who will glady guide you along.
 
Welcome! I also happen to have a '48 Super A, along with 3 cubs. Be careful...these guys are addictive! Here are some manuals for the SA:
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Super A - Super AV/index.html

I had a blade for my SA, but never installed it, since I use the tractor for mowing. If you mid-mount the blade (preferred for grading) and you want to keep the drawbar on the rear, you will need a substitute drawbar.

If you are using it to plow snow, it uses some additional pieces. The blade manual is available via the Quick Links above left, then PDF Manuals.

Again, welcome aboard!
 
Welcome!

Take some time and read through a few threads to acquaint yourself with the Forum:

After your 2nd post on the Forum, you'll have access to the all the free PDF Manuals. They are located via "Quick Links" in the upper left corner of your screen. Hit that and a pull-down appears where you'll find "PDF Manuals". Through that link, you'll be able to download any service or implement manuals that interest you.

Might also enjoy reading through this thread (many service items apply to an A as well): What to do with a Cub you just brought home

Don't forget the How To Forum for showing examples of fixes. Take some pictures of your tractor and post them. We’d like to see it.

Glad you joined us.
 
Hi Everybody!

I uploaded a picture. I hope it comes through!

Other than getting the plow on, I have noticed a few things that needed attention. The previous owner ran by the saying "if a little is good, then a lot is better." This being the case, as there was about 15 quarts of gear lube in the transmission/pto gear box. I somehow managed not to make my garage floor look like a BP oil spill. It now has 5 qts of fresh fluid, as defined in the owners manual.
He also used concentrate antifreeze (without water) in the radiator. My plan is to drain that tomorrow night and put in 50/50. He also ran into something (tree) and broke the right headlight lens and the top of the muffler. It currently sounds like a hot rod.

The rear rims are rusting pretty bad from being loaded their whole lives. I have be struggling to find 9x24 rims. Any suggestions?

Other than that, just some routine maintenance to get it ready for the winter. This spring starts the full rebuild.

Cheers!

tractor 2.jpg
 
Looks nice and straight from here. You will like the power this machine has for pushing snow. I have a 130. Chains are a must when the ground is froze hard. Enjoy the SA!
 
Hi Everybody!

In the ending pursuit of maintenance, I decided to change the engine oil. Not knowing when the previous owner had last done this, I figured it was a good place to do this. One problem, he had rounded off the pipe plug. After some fighting, profanity, and general redneck-ness, I got it out.

What I found can only be described as Aunt Jemima pancake batter.....12 quarts of it. There was some straight coolant that came out with it (it came out first). For as long as I had had this thing, the radiator level has never dropped on me. The PO said he would check the level constantly.

For now, I flushed the block with some kerosene and put some fresh oil and a filter in it. This will obviously need more attention. Are the o-rings at the bottom of the sleeves leaking? Is the head gasket blown out? Is the block cracked?

Stay tuned for more exciting details!

rsz_img_20181103_111236994.jpg
 
If the coolant level does not go down and the engine oil has not been changed for a long time and what you found was water it could be condensation.
 
In fact, unless the water that came out was green (antifreeze), it's almost certainly extraneous water, perhaps down the broken exhaust pipe, perhaps condensation, etc.
 
I think the majority of the issue is just a build up of condensation over many years of neglect.

The small caveat is the pint of green antifreeze that came out before the pancake batter, and a little at the end. I think it warrants a little more testing before I tear into the engine.
 
Just went thru the mounting of a front blade!!!! Like you, had never done an A before! 3 hours w/the help of son-in-law have it 99% mounted!! Had not been on the tractor for years. FYI - the long bolt DOES go thru the Square part of the casting NOT thru the 2 ears w/holes on the back side of the casting. You do need plugs? for the ends of the Square opening in the casting (sometimes difficult to come by) Al in Alabama does have them). I just substituted a 2X2 block of wood w/correct size hole for the. bolt! (poor people have poor ways!) It was a challenge to get the bolt thru the casting and the mounting plate bolted onto the side of the clutch tube - finally just disconnected the blade part completely until we got that part positioned. Lot s of luck. Haven't put the chains on yet - that may be another challenge . Dusty B
 

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Kyle S88":32eke0j9 said:
Hi Everybody!

I uploaded a picture. I hope it comes through!

tractor 2.jpg
Click to expand...

It is hard to tell in the picture, but that tractor looks very nice cosmetically. Do you think that could be original paint? I know it is a long shot for a Super A to still look that good after 70 years, but they are out there. Another reason I ask that is because it looks to have the original rear tires on it (a pattern - commonly called turkey track tires - that isn't available anymore). More pictures closer up would be nice to see.

Something to keep in mind when looking at how much oil mix came out of the engine. Make sure the hydraulic touch control reservoir isn't empty because if it is that means you have hydraulic fluid leaking into the crankcase and the hyd. pump will need rebuilding. Let me know and I'll help you with that if it is needed.
 
AL Farmall Boy":32tdkos2 said:
. . . Do you think that could be original paint? I know it is a long shot for a Super A to still look that good after 70 years, but they are out there. Another reason I ask that is because it looks to have the original rear tires on it (a pattern - commonly called turkey track tires - that isn't available anymore). . . .
Click to expand...
I'm going to say it has probably been repainted. It has a magneto, which agrees with it being a '48 model (actually '48-'50). But the decals are later. In particular to white background "Super A" would be from about 1951 or later.

I agree on the tires. They were common during the early Super A years but were discontinued in the early '50s. If they are not original, they would have had to be replaced while the tractor was quite young.
 
Based on what the PO told me, it was repainted about 35 years ago (when he got it). The only major repairs that he has did was replace the ring gear on the flywheel and replace the magneto.

Good to know about the tires! I have been looking for those, but have not been able to locate them. Anyone know where I can get a set of 9x24 rims? The calcium chloride has destroyed the current ones.

If the decals are incorrect, which one should it have? I have seen ones that have "Culti-Vision" on them. Is that it?

As for the hydro, I need to check it. It currently lifts the woods deck up and down, but I need to make sure there is enough fluid so that I don't burn it up. Is hy-tran still the best option to replace the 'Touch Fluid'?

More pictures soon. It's getting cold up here in MI!
 
When you get to the point of cleaning the tractor up, spray the entire tires with some full strength degreaser like Purple Power and then pressure wash them (hot water if possible). You'll be surprised at how clean and good they'll look!
 
Kyle S88":jlclj7xj said:
Hi Everybody!

I uploaded a picture. I hope it comes through!

Other than getting the plow on, I have noticed a few things that needed attention. The previous owner ran by the saying "if a little is good, then a lot is better." This being the case, as there was about 15 quarts of gear lube in the transmission/pto gear box. I somehow managed not to make my garage floor look like a BP oil spill. It now has 5 qts of fresh fluid, as defined in the owners manual.
He also used concentrate antifreeze (without water) in the radiator. My plan is to drain that tomorrow night and put in 50/50. He also ran into something (tree) and broke the right headlight lens and the top of the muffler. It currently sounds like a hot rod.

The rear rims are rusting pretty bad from being loaded their whole lives. I have be struggling to find 9x24 rims. Any suggestions?

Other than that, just some routine maintenance to get it ready for the winter. This spring starts the full rebuild.

Cheers!

tractor 2.jpg
Click to expand...


M.E. Miller tire probably has rims. I'd look at getting blank ones, removing your old cleats, and having them attached to the new rims. The rims available now with the cleats already on them don't look "correct."

I am practically drooling on my keyboard over those tires.... :D New ones with that tread pattern are only available in one size, I believe for a :censored: :censored: N series Ford......

Al
 
I have a Super A blade on the 130.
This is how it hooks up.
normal_1A-60_Blade.jpg


Not my tractor, but a good look at the blade set-up on an industrial front axle SA.
SnowPlow3.jpg


Also another source of anti-freeze loss is the seal on the hydraulic pump.
 
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