Need Wiring diagram

R

rstoots

Well-known member
While I have the one touch out I am restoring console to original configuration.
Need wiring diagram for a 1949 Cub with 3 position light switch. Also have 12v conversion with 1 wire alternator.
Post picture or give me a link.
Thanks
 
Found diagram and the 1947 model had a 4 position switch so I will change it out and start hookup. Can someone identify the correct ammeter for this year? I saw 3 on TM.
 
Hi,
If your Cub has been converted to 12 volts, and an alternator, you probably need an ammeter made for more than 20 amps, like the original IH ammeters were made for. But it is your choice. It gives the dates there at TM Tractor when the 3 styles were used.
I think Chipmaker on this site knows about what ammeter to use. You could ask him about it. He has a long post about restoring his 1947 Cub. :)
 
Thanks for the shout out Glen. Here's the gauge I put in the '47 that also has a 1 wire 12V alternator. I don't see it listed on TM's website, I actually bought it at the Thresher's Reunion in Denton last year. It can be found on other tractor websites. Is it period correct for the tractor, no, it's been converted to 12V! Does it work, yes!
This gauge is on Arnold, I also converted Walt and it has an IH gauge that only goes to 20 and it will peg it. I need to change it as well.
 

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Thanks again Glen, you always come through. I sent a PM to Chipmaker about a wiring diagram, I will find the correct ammeter and am going with a 3 position light switch since it's not an OEM Cub.
 
Chipmaker,
I thought I had sent you a PM but apparently I didn't. I just purchased a 60 amp meter from Steiner.
I have a 3position light switch and a 2 connector switch with a 1 wire alternator.
Can you help me with a wiring diagram. my email is rstoots@verizon.net
I'm on page 10 of your 49 restore project, I will start a restore one section at a time later but not near as complete as you have.
 
I found the info. I needed at the link below from May of last year posted by Glen. Thanks to Glen and Chip[maker.
 
OK, every thing is hooked up, hood on with gas, won't start and it was running before I rewired dash. Touch control appears to be working as when I tried to start the lift lever went forward. Ammeter goes all the way to the left when I pull the switch to on, turn lights and it goes a little neg. Checked voltage to magneto about 10v I hooked up wire directly from starter post and magneto post sparks as if direct short to ground, is that OK? Tried starting fluid but it still won't start. Just tested spark plug wire and getting no spark. Converted to 12v by PO. Other ideas to check?
 
rstoots":3pvyc2a1 said:
Checked voltage to magneto about 10v I hooked up wire directly from starter post and magneto post sparks as if direct short to ground, is that OK?
Click to expand...
NO, Don't understand this statement. No need to apply voltage to the magneto unless you are wired for an external coil.
EDIT: Reread the first part of this thread and see you are converted to 12v w/alternator. Am I missing something?
EDIT 2: Reread your other post about this subject, Is it about the same tractor? Are you using an external coil with the magneto?
 
Wire goes from ign. sw to magneto, I do not have external coil, there is a post on the magneto so something goes to it. I replaced the 2 wire alt. with a 1 wire alt. Replaced ign toggle sw with OEM pull sw, replaced ammeter with a 60 amp meter, replaced light sw with OEM 3 position sw.. Light sw works correctly. All was done using wire diagram on this post. Same tractor and I said it has been converted to 12v system with neg. ground.
 
Hi,
If you have a magneto with the original type coil inside it, it is completely separate from the battery and electrical system, it makes it's own power. Do not connect voltage to the little post on the side of the magneto, if that is what it is now. The post is for grounding the magneto to stop the engine.
The original ignition switch had 1 post for 1 wire, that simply grounds the magneto when in the off position.
The ammeter pointer should not move all the way to discharge when you turn on the ignition switch.
Here is a page from the Cub owner's manual showing the original 6 volt wiring, with magneto, and the ignition switch.
I see that you have 12 volts now, but the magneto still needs to ground to stop the engine, like it did before. :)

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2034.jpg
 
rstoots":255ns7w2 said:
Wire goes from ign. sw to magneto, I do not have external coil, there is a post on the magneto so something goes to it.
Click to expand...
Glen explained it.

Now tractor won't start, probably burned up the magneto's internal coil.

Two solutions; external coil for the magneto or purchase the magneto's internal coil.
 
Yep, I have destroyed the magneto coil. Disconnected wire and still wouldn't start.
Can I assume by mounting http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/808fp.htm external coil and run a coil wire to distributor with a hot wire from console sw would be one solution. Replacing magneto coil and change out the switch would be the other solution.
What's involved with changing magneto coil and is that the only part I need to replace? Can you provide a link to the correct switch on the TM site?
 
Eugene":dhhi60ks said:
rstoots":dhhi60ks said:
Wire goes from ign. sw to magneto, I do not have external coil, there is a post on the magneto so something goes to it.
Click to expand...
Glen explained it.

Now tractor won't start, probably burned up the magneto's internal coil.

Two solutions; external coil for the magneto or purchase the magneto's internal coil.
Click to expand...
:Dito: Glen and Eugene has you covered. Note especially Glen's statement about 2 completely separate systems. If you decide to repair the magneto and use it for providing electrical power for the ignition then your 12v conversion with the alternator etc. will only recharge the battery, provide electricity for the lights and any other electrical accessories. The magneto with its internal coil works on induction current and is therefore separate from the tractor's other electrical system. That's why you can start with a hand crank and run with the magneto only. On the other hand, if you convert to an external coil you will need a true ignition switch instead of the kill switch for interrupting battery power to the external coil. The kill switch post connection on the magneto then becomes the voltage input point from the external coil. This all is assuming you are switching to external coil and neg ground with your new 12v alternator/battery.
 
rstoots":24usrtbn said:
Yep, I have destroyed the magneto coil. Disconnected wire and still wouldn't start.
Can I assume by mounting http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/808fp.htm external coil and run a coil wire to distributor with a hot wire from console sw would be one solution. Replacing magneto coil and change out the switch would be the other solution.
What's involved with changing magneto coil and is that the only part I need to replace? Can you provide a link to the correct switch on the TM site?
Click to expand...
Depends on your objective. Do you want to run a magneto system like it came OEM or does it matter. If it were my tractor I would (1) get a quality 12v internal resistor coil from an auto parts store and a 2 pole ignition switch (not a kill switch to ground) and follow the wiring diagram that you have which shows the current flow from battery +, to switch, to + side of coil then -side of coil to the post on the magneto. The wire from the internal coil to the points needs to be discarded. You then have a battery ignition system using a magneto in place of the normal distributor. To reduce the cost of future maintenance I would look for a good used distributor (complete with mounting) to replace the magneto housing. Replacing the rotor and pinion gears alone will cost almost as much as a magneto coil. (2)BUT if you want to stay stock OEM like the 1949 came with then buy a magneto coil and go for it.
 
Would prefer to stay with the magneto but want to make sure I'm buying the correct parts. Would like some idea on how to replace magneto coil, can you answer those questions?
 
My suggestion is to go to "QUICK LINKS" at the top left corner of this page, locate the Service Manual GSS 1012 Electrical Equipment and print it out. Pages 1-6 will give you complete instructions on service and maintenance of a J4 magneto. You can replace the coil by removing the mag from the tractor. Follow the instructions. If you want to do a complete service and repair then you will need the special puller to be able to access the impulse coupling to check/replace the springs and make sure it's all correct. If you've never done this before I suggest you seek out a magneto rebuilder or one of the FORUM members who are expert on this or BRING THE MAGNETO TO A CUBFEST along with the needed rebuild parts. There you will find members who are expert and proficient in rebuilding the magneto. Rick Spivey did one for me at DSCF last year. Check with McDonald Carb for prices, I expect you will spend $200-$300 for parts (coil, rotor/penion, springs, ignition points, condenser, etc) to do a complete rebuild but afterwards it will be as good as new.
EDIT: Sanford NC, mid June. Probably about 4 hours away from Fredricksburg VA
 
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