I've seen alot of discussion on decals and usually they say vinyl is better. But I've never heard if they are time period correct. Did they ever change from one to the other? I've seen what looked like original paint on both cubs and super A's that had a ghost clear backing in indicating they were mylar decals. But am I correct? These were also 1950-55 cubs and SA. So did they change to vinyl later? Was I mistaken and seeing an old repaint job and using incorrect time period decals? Any info on cubs and letter series including supers would be GREAT. TY....
Mylar vs vinyl decals??? Which were factory?
- Thread starter BullDAWG
- Start date
I'm pretty sure that they were originally all water transfer decals which are no longer available.
I thought the mylar we're water transfered just using Windex instead allows a little more adjust time. I need to do more research on mylar now.
But even if the mylar are different than the original water transfered type. They still would be closer to original look correct? As the vinyl decals are cut right next to letters without having the clear ghost like connecting boarder around the whole decals as the mylar type also have (like the original water transfered type). Or am I incorrect again? LOL
But even if the mylar are different than the original water transfered type. They still would be closer to original look correct? As the vinyl decals are cut right next to letters without having the clear ghost like connecting boarder around the whole decals as the mylar type also have (like the original water transfered type). Or am I incorrect again? LOL
radioguy41
501 Club
As mentioned, the decals were water transfer decals, not Mylar and not vinyl. Since Mylar wasn't invented until 1954 it couldn't have been used prior to that on tractors at any rate.
Don McCombs
501 Club
Check with Tim (tst) Talleur.goxu1":2tynufuk said:
Early days they were water transfer, after water they used a silk screen process which were very good quality but it is a process no one hardly does anymore, then they switch to vinyl, I have never seen a mylar decal from the factory and which are cheap inferior materials only sold by the aftermarket, they are thick, poor quality, the adhesives are poor and they will peel off, colors fade, and do not last long, if you just want to brighten up a worker or sell it and do not care, use mylar, they are less than half the price of a good quality vinyl decal,
If you want it to last after you spent a lot of $$ and time to restore and paint your tractor and or implement use vinyl, like the old saying goes, you get what you pay for
If you want it to last after you spent a lot of $$ and time to restore and paint your tractor and or implement use vinyl, like the old saying goes, you get what you pay for
tst":2ahh24re said:
tst, I'm not arguing nor disagree with you as I know you know more on this topic than me. I'm trying to learn so understand I'm asking to learn.
On my 1950's cubs and SA, the big "Farmall" sticker has a clear film/ghost material like how the mylar has. Vinyl doesn't. So am I wrong saying they look more like original during the 50's? On my racecar all my sponsors decals were vinyl. The only issue I have w/ vinal was with a script type of my name on my car as it had long thin script that didn't want to release from the sticky paper after application to my 71 Plymouth roadrunner. So my question is if mylar is so bad how would someone replicate the more correct look of the clear ghost part? Only way I can think of would be to have a clear sticker the size of the ghost part and then apply the McCormick Farmall stickers on top. But even this at close distance wouldn't look right.
And just in case I didn't say... My tractors are working units. I touch up parts I've replaced or cleaned all the cancer/rust off of. I use Rust-Oleum rattle cans to do this so none of mine would win a beauty contest. As IMHO why do an expensive paint job only to go into the woods/thick brush and scratch it all up the next day... So this question isn't for me unless I find say a demo, or a 47 SA, 64 12v white hood Farmall Cub etc.
those we water transfer decal, back in the day that was the only choice and they did last a long time, decals with glue on the back from the back in 70's, 80's the glue can etch in to the backing paper from old age and being stored in hot places for a long time and will not separate
if you want the decal to look "aged" you can beat them up, scuff pad etc to give them an old look
if you want the decal to look "aged" you can beat them up, scuff pad etc to give them an old look
Not taking about aged look I mean there is a clear film in-between the word Farmall, McCormick the IH tractor symbol on the hood side emblem. Both mylar and water type has it while vinyl is each thing even each letter in some cases are individual stickers. That's why they (vinyl) are mounted on a sticky backing paper that must be applied with the decal so correct spacing of each individual decal is correct in relation to the decal as a whole. That's what I meant by to look correct vinyl decals would need to be placed on top of a clear decal to look like a water decal. But up close it still wouldn't look right as the 2nd layer would be slightly raised vs the water decal had only a single layer.