My new Cub does not move, rear end issue.

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paulbender

New member
Well today was a long day and I finally came in when the sun went down to do some research and found this wonderful site. I bought an old Cub lo boy, I was told it was an early 50's model for $700. cosmetically the tractor looks very nice with straight tin and some rust that a DA sander can fix. Rear tires are nice, fronts need replaced. Came with a 4? inch mower, but no PTO pulleys or belt. when I went to winch it unto the trailer the front of the tractor raised in the air and the rear wheels would just not turn. After a long battle I got the tractor loaded , but had to drag it the whole way. When I arrived home I removed the seat and shifter plate. There was a bit of rust on the right shaft and the shaft was frozen, I got it freed up with some pb blaster , but the rear wheels are still not turning. I took the transaxle fluid plug out and the resivour looks low. I am wondering where the freeze is located? Should I take the plate off the rear end where the PTO shaft is located? My goal is to get a rolling chassis so I can then check for a stuck motor. I located a leak in the radiator. I have no crank to turn it over by hand either. Any other ideas to check for a stuck engine would also be appreciated. I have removed the tin and will relocate that to the basement for some restoration and removed the radiator while I was there also. I'd really like to get this stuck wheel thing taken care of asap. as it is I cannot even roll it off the trailer. thanks in advance for the suggestions. Paul
 
It is possible that one of the two shift forks is broken in the transmission. These forks move the slider gears in and out of gear. If broken the transmission could still be in gear. Remove the transmission cover and see if the two forks that the ball on the end of the shifter rod fits into are lined up across from each other and that they are in the center of the transmission, These forks move fore and aft on round slider rails. Check to see that the fingers on each fork fit into a collar on the gear and are intact and not broken. The center position of the two shift forks is neutral.
 
Here is what the shifter forks look like.




trans.jpg
 
I am sure you have already tried the old rock back and forth a little each time your walk around it, but if not, rock n' roll instead of just a straight pull.
 
The forks are lined up. While you are in there, however, check the tightness of the two bolts that hold the forks to the rails. Then try to move each fork fore and aft and see if the fingers on the forks are over the gear collars and not cracked or broken. It will take a little effort to push the rails because there are poppet balls sitting in grooves on the rails. Return each rail to the center position before installing the cover. From the picture, however, everything looks fine.

As the previous comment indicates, the starter gear may have jammed in and locked against the flywheel ring gear. You can either loosen the starter to release the lock or rock the tractor back and forth in high gear to see it it will unlock.

Also check your brake bands to make sure they may not have been left in the on position and got stuck to their drums. Check that the brake rods move properly as you push and release the brake pedal.

If you have a crank, try to see if the engine turns over. You may also be able to check this by pulling the fan belt taut as you try to turn the fan blades.
 
Paul,

First, welcome to the forum. Second, Massillon is not that far from lots of folks that would be willing to give you an on-sight evaluation of your problem. Wouldn't take much to talk them in to getting there hands dirty turning wrenches. Yes, we do that kind of thing and enjoy every minute of it.

Bill
 
Paul:

G'day and congrats on your new to you Cub. Lo-Boy's were first introduced into production in 1955. Before that they were all standard Cub's. You can see the difference between a Cub and a Lo-Boy.

Cub-54-56.jpg
Lo-Boy-55-56.jpg

--------------- 1954 - 1956 Cub -------------------------- 1955 - 1956 Cub Lo-Boy
Cub FAQ's #1 on ATIS

The guys have already given you great info on where the problems lie. You can find the fixes below:

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to the Farmallcub.com :big smile: Forum Family. And you have come to the right place for all things Cub related. If you click on the Site Rules, Regulations, & Important Information, it will point you to :arrow: the Welcome Wagon wherein you will find links to many useful sites and topics. One of which is the Cub Manual Server. You may also wish to check out the CubFests and Gatherings Calendar 2011 to find a gathering of fellow members where Cubs, Friends and a good time is shared by all. Enjoy!.
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Hey Paul,
Welcome to a great experience! These guys & gals will treat you right!
I am with Boss Hog - I had a similar problem some years ago, - seems that somehow water had found its way into the final drive bearings and eventually built up enough gunk that the bearing at the top of one final plumb locked up.
It's worth knowing while you are chasing mysteries...
Good Hunting!

Larry
 
Before pulling too much apart, I would go the easy route and check the tranny forks as was first suggested. The photo posted by mth74 should get you going in the right direction. If the forks are in line then I would start digging deeper.

Since you don't have a hand crank you can still check the engine to see if it turns. It could be something as simple as stuck fan blades.
 
On my 61' Low-boy, I found the brake bands (toggle type) were locked on the drums. Further investigation showed the brake peddle shaft to be frozen to the tractor, where it passes through the frame. See if those peddles are free. Also check the brake actuator levers, where they pass through the after-drive housing.
 
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