Missing Governor Sleeve Stop Ring

L

lyle11

501 Club
I recently disassembled a governor for the first time. I have never had this governor installed on an engine I have run. It is on a spare engine I bought and I just wanted to clean it up and inspect it. I replaced the Governor Spring and reassembled it.

I decided to disassemble another governor on one of my Cubs and only then realized the tiny little retaining clip (251 460 R1) was missing on the first governor I disassembled. Didn't find any part fragments inside, so I'm certain it was missing before I ever opened it up.

It seems like the tension fork riding on the bearing would keep everything in place. I'm not sure you can purchase the stop ring, or perhaps some common retaining clip you can find at the hardware store will work. Kind of hoping it's just needed to keep things in place for assembly.

What would be the expected performance ramifications from missing this stop ring?
 
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lyle11 said:
I'm not sure you can purchase the stop ring,
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Hi,
I did a part number search online, and there are some of the snap rings shown.
There are a few on Ebay, they are new, it says. He is selling 2 together, it says.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/326319663792?msockid=0496da91736b603611d8ce7172d161ba

This Case IH dealer has info online, it says they have it, it is $9.09
So probably the Case IH dealer near you can get one too.
https://www.messicks.com/catalogs/c...18-power-c-60-engine-governor-and-connections

I don't know how the governor works without the snap ring, I've never tried using one without it.
 
Glen said:
Hi,
I did a part number search online, and there are some of the snap rings shown.
There are a few on Ebay, they are new, it says. He is selling 2 together, it says.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/326319663792?msockid=0496da91736b603611d8ce7172d161ba

This Case IH dealer has info online, it says they have it, it is $9.09
So probably the Case IH dealer near you can get one too.
https://www.messicks.com/catalogs/c...18-power-c-60-engine-governor-and-connections

I don't know how the governor works without the snap ring, I've never tried using one without it.
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Thanks Glen. Governor was installed and I needed to mow so ran it with the governor missing the clip. Engine responded to throttling up and down but has what I call surging (engine revs up and down then settles down).

Shaft that goes to carburetor linkage has sbout 1/4" of play and needs the JB Weld fix. But if I'm reluctant to do that yet since the governor is easier to remove without the shaft connected. Not sure if that play of the shaft would cause the surging. Also need to adjust the bumper spring tension which I believe is to correct surging.

Plan is to do it right and get and install the retaining clip, but after swapping the engine this week with less than ideal equipment, I need a break from working on it.
 
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Instead of JB Weld, you might be able to wedge a small piece of shim, or pop can to take up the play. Then it would still be removeable.
 
Bob McCarty said:
Instead of JB Weld, you might be able to wedge a small piece of shim, or pop can to take up the play. Then it would still be removeable.
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I wasn't looking forward to doing this because I generally don't like dealing with tiny items, being an older guy. But I cut out a shim from a pop can and formed a semi circle around the rod going from each side of the key. Inserted it and it didn't seem to make too much difference in play so when I pulled it out and the shim stayed in the hole. So, I duplicated the process and inserted a second shim and it reduced the play by about 50%.

Figured I would stop there and see if it made any difference with the surging. And it definitely did. I don't have any issue unless I rapidly move the throttle from the low to high position. I could add more shims, but at this point, I'm happy with the performance. I mowed for about 90 minutes running full throttle like I always do so not a lot of throttling up and down, but no surging when I need to slow it down or speed it up.

I know this was discussed by another forum
member under "How To" and I think he concluded that missing the clip affected the performance. It's too early for me to reach any kind of conclusion, but certainly at this point, after limited use, I'm not going to be pulling the governor to add the retaining clip.

I might try to add another shim, but at this point, I'm worried what I have in there will fall out. Might end up JB welding it after I get more runtime on it and experience with it. Plus, I haven't even messed with the bumper spring yet.
 
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I feel rather foolish but it won’t be the first time. I removed the governor from another worn out Cub engine. The idea being to inspect and clean this governor and have it ready to quickly swap in, if I decided the missing retaining clip was causing an issue. I opened up this governor and found the SLEEVE stop ring in place. Then realized I was able to remove the Governor thrust ball bearing assembly (43 481 D) completely off the shaft with the sleeve stop ring in place because the sleeve stop ring stops the SLEEVE from moving too far on the shaft. It’s purpose is not to restrict the movement of the thrust ball bearing assembly.

So, in all likelihood the Sleeve Stop Ring was never missing. All I did internally with the original governor I was questioning was to open it up and clean it thoroughly. I slid the thrust ball bearing assembly off the shaft to inspect and clean it. And then, when I later looked at the diagram, I incorrectly concluded that the stop ring was not in place because I definitely did not remove any retaining clip when I slid the bearing assembly off the shaft.

So, anything I reported regarding engine performance with my “missing” stop ring is best ignored because I would bet it was never missing. I should have paid more attention to the name of the part being a “sleeve” stop not a “bearing” stop.
 
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