Linear actuator

F

Findoggy

Well-known member
May be a silly question, but my understanding of things electrical is very limited. I have a large 12 volt linear actuator that I was thinking of hooking up to my snow plow blade to make it angle. I have a 6 volt system on my '60 cub...can I use it? I already tried it and the actuator works, albeit slowly. Other than the cycle time being slow (still beats getting on and off of the tractor since I have an IH windbreaker, and need to get on and off the back of the tractor), will it do any damage to my tractor's charging system? Will it run my battery down? I don't think I would constantly be needing to change the angle on the blade, just once in a while. If anyone knows of a good reason I shouldn't try this, I won't be offended by you telling me so. If I can do it, does anyone have nice close-up photos of how they have mounted their hydraulic cylinders to the blade to make it angle? thanks for any and all advice you can give.
Findoggy
 
You have already discovered the only downside to the application - the slow speed. It will not harm your charging system or your tractor.
 
Findoggy:

Document the project as you go :idea: :!: Sounds like an interesting project with a reasonable outcome. I like the idea of using what you have to get the job done. I like it when folks think outside the box :big smile:
 
Use of the actuator is an idea well worth exploring. Stresses on the actuator while the blade is being used probably will alternate between tension and compression, perhaps alternating rapidly at times. It would be very disappointing to have a failure occur soon after converting your implement. Failure would be more likely while the actuator is in compression and the failure could be buckling of the rod outside the body of the actuator. A Google search for "buckling" and "slenderness ratio" might be helpful in predicting the success of the modification.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buckling
 
Sounds really interesting to me as it would be a lot easier for the average wanna be mechanic to fabricate. Hydraulics are a lot more complicated. I think the linear actuators have the potential to be pretty durable as they're used in the JB applications and those have been in production for several years I think.

Joe
 
I have been told by different mechanics at work when the voltage is low it is hard on the starters. A friend of mine that worked on a grease truck for another company said he had to clean the battery cables every time the changed oil for this reason too. It would be a good idea to mount a 12v battery some where and use that to run the actuator. That's what I do when I use my 12v atv sprayer on my 6v cub.

Billy
 
Here is a couple pic's of mine, if it helps.


HPIM0753_%28Small%29.JPG


HPIM0910_%28Small%29.JPG
 
Its a one shot deal for me to get on and off the tractor. I can only do it once with my health so i turn the plow before it get on it and live with it. If i angle it to the right i make one pass pushing it to the right then i turn around and come back pushing it to the left. I never turn the plow. To push the snow straight i angle the tractor so the angle of the plow is straight and i push the snow straight back.



I been looking at these for my cub cadet so i can turn the plow too. Another thought is using a GM style steering pump to turn the plow with hydraulics at the sametime i can add a 3pt hitch too.

Crash Course on hydraulic systems 101;

Basic hydraulics is very simple.

You need a place to tap into the pressure comming from the pump. The pump has a larger suction line going in from the oil supply and a smaller pressure line comming out of the pump. Its basically simple its about the flow and were you want it to go after that. The oil that comes from the pump needs to be returned after its used. Now you connect the pressure line to the control valve on one side and on the other side i the return to the tank line. The control valve has two ports on the top of it which are working ports that connect to the cylinder to turn the plow. This is a simple application of basic hydraulics. Once you learn this all the other hydraulic applications will fall into place.

So we have an oil tank with a suction line to the pump, a pressure line to the control valve, hoses that connect the control valve to the cylinder and a return line to the tank. We also need a suction screen in the oil tank and an oil filter on the return line so no metal particales can get into the oil supply. Having enough oil so it runs cool and doesn't overheat and keeping it clean extends the life of the hydraulics. Dirty oil and excessive heat will kill hydraulics sooner than we think i've seen it happen on the machines and in elevators. You need to keep the hydraulic oil heat wise well under the rated flash point of the manufacturers rating its on the label.(info)

If you need anymore info and i can help you out feel free email me.
 
Well, don't know how far I'm going to get with this project at present. I pulled out the actuator I had lying around and it seems WAY too large. I would have to get creative with mounting to get it to angle both to the left and to the right. Hmm...looks like this may get put on hold. Just thought I might be able to use what I had lying around. As an aside, what would it cost me (roughly) to put hydraulic angle on my Cub. I remember it being somewhat cost prohibitive, and that is why I was considering this avenue instead. Thanks for the input guys. Findoggy
 
Findoggy:

I would think Rick has it nailed. When I built my hydraulic angle blade project, I did it over a couple years. One of the places I managed to save some coin was in the cyclinder. I did not by a tie-rod cylinder, I instead got lucky and shopped at Princess when they had one of their inventory clearance sales. I got the cylinder for this project plus my 3" cylinder for the splitter project for $60.00 Cdn or so if I remember correctly. I also opted to get a used Cub Cadet 129 Tractor Hydraulic Control Valve

!BhQkSKw!Wk~$(KGrHqMH-DEEreEq4qeoBLIU(j0nUQ~~_35.JPG


This one I just got for my splitter project, $30.00Us plus $30.00US shipping or $65.00Cdn. Shipping to the US would have been $10.00 or so US. I have a couple others but they are a different style and I did not want them on Ellie. I try to keep stuff similar (easier on my cranium) so the other styles will be saved for another Cub and hydraulic applications. I found the biggest cost for me was in hoses and fittings - especially the quick connects. I would not do it any other way though. The quick connects are simply the best solution.

So if you have some time, it is probably a lot easier to build the hydraulic project. Just watch for deals.. scour :eBay: for valves etc., where you can save some cash. Otherwise, Rick's ballpark figures are probably bang on. Thinking about it, I probably have almost that much into it aside from the savings I got buying on :eBay: and watching for sale items. I just checked and the cylinder I have for my blade is now $117.00 Cdn :big say what:
 
Wow, thanks guys...that's really a lot more than I'll be able to spend in the forseeable future. Looks like I'll have to keep getting on/off as needed to angle the blade...good thing I'm young yet!
thanks for the input,
Jason
 
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