Lead paint removal

Joeandmack

Active member
“What are the mathematics of defeat”is a saying when you know you are going to lose but want to minimize the losses. The real commander (wife) has concerns (justifiably so) about the lead paint I am spewing using an angle grinder to remove the paint off the 58. I wear a respirator and only remove paint when alone, change my clothes after shower pretty much do the full decontamination routine. My four year old plays in the garage regularly and has her own workshop. I sweep and vacuum but admittedly am still concerned about the lead paint dust and the effects (2-8 IQ points) on developing brains and think risk factor outweighs benefits. People over ordinance.

With the goal of repainting the tractor and finishing the restore/rehab of the 58 I see three avenues based on my limiting factors of garage space and money, time is not a factor….yet. If you see more I am all ears

1. Call the half done job good and paint it blotchy and unmatched- an unacceptable position I think.

2. Use a paint stripper ( non toxic type) and remove old paint and not make dust.- sounds okay what do people recommend? ez off oven cleaner? Lye ?

3. Paint over old paint. - this option is certainly appealing. Though I imagine could have the worst results of paint peeling off down the road. Aside from degreasing parts and washing how would people prep a surface of paint to repaint?

Probably I’ll do a combination of plan 2 and 3, I would like to hear some devils advocates and peoples thoughts and advice. Haven’t been disappointed yet with people’s knowledge and experiences on this forum.
 
Lead paint is normally, but not always, associated with household type paints. If you suspect lead paint on your Cub, test kits are available at home improvement and paint stores. Non-lead paints can still be hazardous if the dust is inhaled, however,
 
Joeandmack":29x0jp87 said:
2. Use a paint stripper ( non toxic type) and remove old paint and not make dust.- sounds okay what do people recommend? ez off oven cleaner? Lye ?
Might try a citrus based remover and a pressure sprayer.

Purchased a high pressure, pressure sprayer. Tried it out by washing my pickup. Woops. To close, peeled a strip of paint off.
 
I just wash the thing off with gas then paint. Sandblast is the only way to get old paint off, then wash, then IMEADETLY get primer on before dew falls!
A friend of mine used something called click to wash old paint before he painted.
 
Don McCombs":c111m9n4 said:
Lead paint is normally, but not always, associated with household type paints.
I'll get a bit away from what I know and into what I think I have gathered from assorted bits of information. I think the association (media coverage) with household paints has to do with it being in space inhabited by children, which is where the exposure risk would be greatest. Back in the day nearly all paint had some amount of lead, red being among the worst because of the pigments. I think lead was used in commercial/industrial paints long after it was banned in house paint.

Your 2-3 combination is probably about as safe as you can be. You might want to restrict your paint stripper approach to the higher visibility smooth sheet metal parts such as hood, grille, fenders, etc. while painting over old paint on the castings and other chassis parts that are less prominent.
 
you would have to inhale the paint from 100 cubs before it may hurt you, the no lead thing is way out of hand, no lead in wheel weights now etc, if your kids are licking the wheels on your car you have bigger issues than to worry about lead
old nasty houses with many coats of paint peeling from the walls and kids chewing on the pieces is where this all started years ago
 
I've restored several vintage tractors including a '48 Cub and have used a combination of wire wheels, sandpaper, and strippers. Far and away, the easiest and most effective means was with Mr. Muscle oven cleaner. After removing the wheels, I put my Allis Chalmers IB on jack stands outside and thoroughly pressure washed it. Then when dry, sprayed the oven cleaner, waited for it to work and pressure washed it again. Although it did not remove all the original paint, what remained was there to stay after the process; it adhered so well, it needed no removal and was left to over-coat.

The finished process is squeaky clean and complete - and this from one who can get as anal as anyone on earth.

It will etch any aluminum, such as the ID tag, so such parts must be taped off or otherwise removed or protected. The trouble is that it may not be available anymore - and I've looked for it. Once I did it, I had only wished to have learned about it earlier in my restoration career.

Sandblasting residue must be thoroughly removed, or sand will fly into the finish and spoil it when spraying. Ugh!

I would suspect that other paint removers may work well, too, but I have no personal experience with them.
 
Patience , Patience, Patience, if you want a perfect job. I have done one a total top to bottom nut and bolt tractor. I have used soaking parts with vinigar, works pretty well especially small parts.The key is as soon as the are clean ,Wipe down with acetone and prime. I have used a small touch to burn off paint also works pretty well again wipe down with acetone and prime. Wire wheel , chemical stripping ,sand blasting all work. The finale product is all about the prep work. In all honesty these tractors with auto body paint didn't come off the assembly line looking like these "perfect looking tractors"!!. If you want just a show tractor one that you have to haul in an enclosed trailer go for it, but if you want to drive it around and have a little fun with it that's ok also. My next project will be a good mechanical tractor in it's working clothes.
 
As someone else has pointed out, get a cheap lead test kit from a hardware/home improvement store. I restore old cast iron cookware which may have been used to smelt lead at some point. Some of them get tested. Its quick and easy and will give you confirmation if you actually have lead in your Cub paint or not.
 
The test kits I've seen all turn pink/reddish if the test is positive. If you are testing red paint I'm not sure the test will be accurate (?).
 
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