inserts for loop on rear rims

I

inairam

501 Club
I have to change out a tire on a 50s loboy. The rim had square head bolts. I thought the rim loop was clogged with dirt but the loops have 2 metal tab inserts.

I do not see this in the parts manuals. Has anyone seen these type of rims and know where to get the inserts?
 
This may not be why you have "inserts", but when I have needed to install or remove those "captured" square head bolts, the heads don't fit tightly in the loops, and I feared rounding off the corners of the heads. My solution was to use a large screwdriver jammed alongside one flat of the head, while I tightened or loosened the nut. This kept the head from rotating. Your inserts may be doing the same thing.
 
ok I should have waited until had photos to post.

I took off both rims as I did not have two turf tires mounted and had to use two ag tires I had mounted. I broke two square head bolts on both rims. The " good " tuft tire has one broken insert in what is otherwise a serviceable tire and a solid rim. The dry rot tire has 4 intact inserts and a solid rim

1) Where to get a replacement insert?
2) With the two tabs how to I get it in

Any idea how to save this tire and rim?
 

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That insert is part of the loop. You may have to find a bad rim with a good loop you could remove and rivet to your rim.
 
I doubt you can find the insert new. If you made or had new ones made, you'd still need to detach the loop to insert it and then rivet or weld back on to the rim.
 
Hi,
If it is not shown as a separate part in the parts manual, I think the part is not sold separately, and originally they just sell the whole rim as a replacement to fix it.

They have said on here the rims with 4 rivets per lug were made by Firestone. If the tire is off the rim, you should be able to read the info stamped on the inside of the rim.

That is a good idea Bill said above, find another rim and get the part from it.
You could buy a new rim, TM Tractor has them. They use different bolts to attach them to the wheel disc. :)
 
It seems that piece is there just to keep the long bolt centered. So couldn't you use a square nut threaded to the center position on the bolt to do the same?
 
Dale Finch":22x2nmu4 said:
It seems that piece is there just to keep the long bolt centered. So couldn't you use a square nut threaded to the center position on the bolt to do the same?
Click to expand...
That piece actually holds the rim to the center. Without it the head of the bolt will pass completely through the loop.
 
I just used longer bolts and thick flat washers to attach the rim to the tractor when that happened to me. Worked fine, and makes it easier on future generations because you can now put a wrench on the head of the bolt.
 
I don't think my tractor has inserts, or even a place for them. My rims are attached with carriage bolts (1/2" as I recall).
 
If you are considering any repair option including a welding process, be aware that that the rims were originally galvanized to create that silver finish. It’s not clear how much of that original finish is left, but welding on galvanized steel releases extraordinarily toxic fumes.
I am often looking for excuses to practice my feeble welding skills, but in this case, I wouldn’t take a chance. Stick with mechanical fasteners. If you replace the broken piece, drill out the rivets and replace with same.
 
Don McCombs":bamow3rv said:
MiCarl":bamow3rv said:
I don't think my tractor has inserts, or even a place for them. My rims are attached with carriage bolts (1/2" as I recall).
Click to expand...
Then, you likely have the new style aftermarket rims like these…
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/wh/724fp.htm
Click to expand...

I replaced one of the rims with an aftermarket because the tractor came with an A rim on one side. Just looked and the rims appear identical so I think the other one probably was replaced by someone else.

Is there any reason the OP couldn't just use carriage bolts in the originals rather than messing with putting in the insert?
 
MiCarl":2ijikn01 said:
Is there any reason the OP couldn't just use carriage bolts in the originals rather than messing with putting in the insert?
Click to expand...
The old style loop has a 3/4" inch opening for the bolt had. The new style loop takes a half inch carriage bolt which has a 1/2" square under the head. It would not grip in an old style loop and would just spin when you try to tighten it.
 
I finally got this repair done. I took the pieces to work and our machinist make a copy slightly oversized for me. I filed and sanded it and ground off the inside tab ( inside of the rim near the centers) I hand-fitted it and welded it through the slot in the loop that the tab was supposed to be in and grounded the weld flush to the loop. I was able to do it with the rubber on. Saved an early-style rim.
 
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