IH 100 Cub Cadet SPARKING WHEN HOOKING UP BATTERY

[AL Farmall Boy]

Hey guys, I just bought a Cub Cadet 100 and was told it ran but needed a new generator/starter. I bought a new battery for it and was going to see what it would do. Upon hooking up the battery I hooked up the (+) side first and when I started to hook up the (-) side, it sparks heavily when touched to the battery. From reading the forum (for Farmall Cub Tractors) regarding the Generators and Voltage Regulators, I think that I remember reading somewhere that if you will unhook each terminal at the voltage regulator one at a time, then touch the (-) side to the battery each time you do so, that you will eventually find the problem when the wire you unhook doesn't produce a spark at the battery when you touch the (-) cable to the post.

Ok. I did that last night and upon inspection.....I found that the middle wire (#2) to make the spark go away. When I unhooked it, the spark didn't occur at the battery anymore. To begin my testing, I started with wire/terminal #1, still a spark; then I moved to #2, No Spark. After that I just stopped testing. I don't have a wiring diagram for a Cub Cadet 100, no do I realize what this means.

If someone on here could please help me out and tell me what this means is the problem, I would greatly appreaciate. Also, If my test method is wrong, or if I need to do more testing; please let me know. I have included a diagram of the Voltage Regulator for your reference.

 

[Eugene]

Check each regulator terminal for a letter. Usualy located under the screw and wire retainer. The only way to know for sure is to check each terminal because not all regulators terminals are in the same location.

I'll look for an on line wiring diagram for your tractor.

Edit: http://www.cubfaq.com/wiringdiagrams.html

 

[AL Farmall Boy]

Thank you.

 

[AL Farmall Boy]

Is this the correct method for testing or should I do something else? What is that telling me, or do I need to know which terminal it is?

 

[Eugene]

You are doing OK. I believe you disconnected the B (battery) terminal on the regulator. If so the problem/short is some place beyond the end of the wire you disconnected.

Take a look at the wiring diagram in my previous post. The following will help you further isolate the problem area.

Disconnect the L terminal on the regulator and try the spark test again. If you get a spark with the L terminal disconnected the problem is in the regulator or the starter generator. No spark then use the wiring diagram and trace the L wire back through the ignition switch - etc..

Disconnect the G terminal on the regulator and try the spark test again.

You need to know the stamped letter on each regulator terminal. Example; the B terminal on one regulator may or will not be in the same location on the next regulator.

 

[AL Farmall Boy]

The center terminal is the BATT terminal just to clarify, AND the starter/generator will start the engine if that tells you anything.

 

[AL Farmall Boy]

ok, went outside and unhooked the (L) terminal. NO SPARK at battery when unhooked. I touched the (-) cable with that terminal unhooked and got nothing. Keep in mind that everything else on the VR was hooked up. When I unhook the (BATT) terminal on the VR, I get no spark. When I unhook the (F) terminal on the VR, I still get spark at (-) Battery termainal. I did not test the (G) terminal. With no spark, how in the heck would I gain access to the starter switch and the ignition switch!? Those are in close quarters and no room to gain access to!

NOw that I have presented that, what could the problem be, and how would I know how to solve/fix it??

 

[Eugene]

Disconnect the wire from the ignition switch to the coil at the coil. Then try your spark test again. If you get a spark the problem is in or near the ignition switch. Could be the insulation is worn off a wire and shorting or a faulty ignition switch.

If you get no spark then disconnect the wire from the side of the distributor and try the spark test again. No spark with the wire disconnected - problem is inside the distributor.

How to work under the dash on a Cub Cadet? Remove the battery. The rest is a tight fit.

 

[AL Farmall Boy]

Have I ruled out a faulty VR, and/or Starter-Generator?

Here is what I have Found so far. I will update drawing as time goes.

 

[Eugene]

When you unhooked the L wire from the regulator and no spark - you have determined the short is not in the regulator or starter/generator. That is not saying the regulator or starter/generator are functional, just not the cause of the short.

You now need to look for the short following the light green wire from the L terminal on the regulator back through the ignition switch, coil, and distributor.

The reason I suggested checking for the short at the coil is that you have easy access to the coil.

 

[AL Farmall Boy]

Well, well.....guess what I found. There was 2 wires twisted together behind the dash and I noticed that the key switch was not hooked up at all. I assumed those wires to go to the switch since no other wires were unhooked. I put on new terminal ends, hooked up the switch, and low and behold the spark is gone!!! The Cub Cadet has the original style key switch and didn't come with a key. I didn't think about it not coming with a key and therefore they left it wired together. I have several copies of original keys, so by hooking it back up it is functional now.

I poured some gas in the tank and fired over on the starter for several turns, choked it, fired it over again, and it started right up. It runs excellent, with the exception of just quitting randomly after being ran for around 5-10 minutes. When it dies, it starts right back up. It revs up and down perfectly and idles perfectly. I'm not too concerned at this point. The coil felt warm, but not hot. I'm sure that is normal. I also took my multimeter and put the leads on the battery posts with it running. It read 12.45 volts, so I guess that is a good sign that the generator is charging.

WHAT DO YOU ALL THINK?

 

[SundaySailor]

If you get no spark then disconnect the wire from the side of the distributor and try the spark test again. No spark with the wire disconnected - problem is inside the distributor.

With all due respect Eugene, most Cub Cadets do not have distributors. Not unless someone has dropped an engine in this thing - shoe horned so to speak.

I think you forgot you were on the Cub Cadet section. :shock: :lol:

 

[BigBill]

Food for thought;;;;;

On some of my cadet 100's that were run hard i noticed the wires that run inside the frame around the right side of the engine can fray and short out on the engine block corner. Just a warning what to sometimes inspect for too.

 

[Eugene]

With all due respect Eugene, most Cub Cadets do not have distributors.

I have an excuse. I suffer from CRS syndrome.

Plus I got no proof reader capable of correcting my technical errors.

 

[SundaySailor]

With all due respect Eugene, most Cub Cadets do not have distributors.

I have an excuse. I suffer from CRS syndrome.

Plus I got no proof reader capable of correcting my technical errors.

Eugene, you've provided many people with great information, including myself. No worries at all. We all get forgetful.

Cheers!