I Needs Advice

R

Rudi

501 Club
Godd morning all.

Well, David was over Monday night and we managed to get Ellie-Mae's shoes on right and put some chains on her. Only Ladder type, but seems much better than before.

We also looked at a couple of concerns that I had.

Yup, front seal is leaking. Not enough that I have to get into it right away, but I will eventually have to do it. That means pulling the pulley.....

I have not got a clue as to why type of pulley puller to get. So I am asking for your advice.

I have a catalogue from my local Princess Auto store - it is a farm supply type that deals in tools and surplus items as well. It is a pdf file and has to be downloaded, but it is only a small file.

The pullers are on page 213. Any chance y'all could have a look and let me know what/which is the one to get?

Also, second question--

When I took the hood off and was playing with the belts, I broke one of the bolts on the rad pipe going into the head. Now I am getting some leakage. Not a lot, but it too will have to be fixed sooner or later. How do I get the bolt out without damaging the head?

Drill successively larger holes in the bolt and then pick out the threads?????

Also, can I use a sealant of some type to stop the leak? It is a small one.
 
Rudi,

Jim Hudson and George Willer have addressed pulley removal. Very good info. Just search the archives or maybe they will revisit the subject.

The busted bolt is not a fun project. A temp fix can be done by drilling and tapping a (1 size smaller hole) in the one that broke off. Use a grade 8 bolt with appropriate size washer. Could become a permanent fix if you luck out. The leak will only get worse without downward pressure of a bolt. I wouldn't advise using stop leak in a thermal siphon cooling system.

Study long and drill once!!!

Good luck Rudi.

moe1942
 
Rudi, I like to use lefthanded drill bits, If you're lucky and use plenty of penetrating oil the bit will grab the bolt and screw it out. I'm sure others have good/better ideas. Dan
 
I don't have a thing to contribute about the pulley removal, however, I have a few cents worth about the broken bolt. I wouldn't try to tackle it with your average garden variety hand drill. Too easy for drill to walk out on you. If at all possible, get the bolt to a milling machine where the work can be properly clamped down. Also a milling machine has a very stable spindle. With the right tools and a skilled operator you'll get the bolt out and ONLY the bolt, saving the chance of more damage/repairs or even scrapping the piece out. I know it may seem like too much...but I've repaired quite a few "repairs" over the years. In case you were wonderin'...yup, I is a machinist.-Marion
 
Rudi use 2 bolts from the puller to the bearing separator. Get a bearing separator big enough so the bolts will go down by the side of the pulley. I never had to use any heat on mine.
Check your email for more info on Harbor Freight. The one from Prince looked like to many $$$
Pulley%2520puller%20(Medium).jpg
 
Rudi,

Is the bolt broke flush with the head or the top of the outlet elbow? Or somewhere in between?
 
Jim:

Thanks, will try and find one affordable.

Donny - I think if I remember correctly that it is broken off flush with the flange on the neck. If that is the case, maybe some judicious use of penetrating oil and a little heat might allow me to take it out with vise grips??? Or is that dangerous?

Course if it is broken off flush with the head, then I really am in doo doo cause I guess it will have to come off and go to a machinist...
 
Rudi,

If in fact it's flush with the top of the outlet elbow use penetrating oil,heat and the vise grips. If it's flush with the head maybe you could rent a magnetic mount drill motor. Don't know how much it would cost but maybe cheaper and easier than taking the head off. (New gasket ect.)If you can get a mag drill try the left hand drill as Dan stated or drill a into the bolt and use a (not so) easy out with some heat.
I did this on my 55 for the pipe plug where the oil pressure guage sits. Burnt the paint but got that sucker out.
 
Rudi,

This reply may get a little long, but I hope it helps.

Sometime, either today or tomorrow I plan to tackle a similar problem. When I pulled the head from Marilyn's engine, I found a bolt missing and didn't remember removing it. When I got the head off, I discovered why. Someone had broken it off earlier, flush with the block. Here's what I plan to do about it:

1. Put the head back in place and put a couple long bolts in a couple of the short holes, as far apart as possible. That will allow me to shift the head slightly to center on the guide bolts. Then, I'll snug it down with a couple more bolts. Using the hole as a guide for a drill that just fits the hole, I'll start a dimple (perfectly?) centered in the broken stub...assuming the holes in the head are spaced right. The size will be letter X (.397"). That should work for your water neck as well. If your broken bolt is the rear one, you could do it before you loosen the front one. If it's the other one, you could put the neck on backward and still use it as a guide to locate the dimple.

2. After removing the head again, I'll use the dimple in the center of the stub to anchor a drill guide for a much smaller pilot drill over the dimple. The drill guide can be made from a thick piece of steel (3/4"?) by drilling the hole squarely on the drill press. The guide will be located by using the shank end of the drill to exactly find the dimple. The guide can be anchored by a strap over it using a couple of the other tapped holes. The guide makes it possible to use a hand held drill and keep it centered and square.

3. The hole will be drilled out in steps...each time using the drill in the drill press to enlarge the hole squarely in the guide. The final size, if everything works as planned will be tap size for 3/8-16 which is 5/16" (.312"). I'll probably stop short at letter M (.295") or letter N (.302") to see if any threads show. If so, a sharp pick can start the cleanup so a tap can find the thread and finish the job.

A larger mill would make it possible to put the block in the mill, which would be a bit simpler. If you have a good drill press, you may be able to use it to do the job on your head...if you want to remove it.

I'm sure your talent and perserverence will allow you to do the job in place by this method without removing the head.
 
Donny:

I am hoping it is flush with the neck! My brother-in-law actually has one of those mag mount drill presses. He uses it all the time to bore holes in i-beams and such for signs. Might be a possibility although I would have some concerns getting the bit perpendicular and centred properly. But it may be an avenue.

George:

The way you explain it clears up a lot of questions I had and may even be the route to go if I don't take the head off. I know I can drill perpendicular holes with a portable - do it all the time, but metal is a different critter. With the guide block you described, I should be able to handle it though. Be real curious to see how you go about it.

Pics would be really beneficial and would be real useful for the tips and techniques section. Let me know how it turns out.

Boy, I have so much to learn about mechanics!

BTW - I now have 3 forward and 1 reverse!

Thanks guys
 
Marion(57 Loboy)":17j2wsdx said:
Also a milling machine has a very stable spindle. -Marion
Click to expand...
And I might add Marion, very expensive precision bearings!. I just got finished replacing spindle bearings in my vertical mill, but boy what a difference bearings can make!
Michael
 
George,
I like your thinking, thank you.
When I pulled the mower off the 54, I found an impliment bolt broken off at the front hole of the drawbar bracket. I think that with your idea's, some patience, and a dremel to flatten the surface of the brolken bolt, I'll be OK.
I am going to make a step from the pistures posted here (with the plate and pipe), before I weld it up, I can use the mounting plate as my guide.
It's got to warm up a little outside before I start on that though 8)
 
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