I am reading 12v on NEG on ignition coil

[staninlowerAL]

............... I will add the points are corroded ....................

My bet is the ignition electrical circuit is not making contact to ground when the points close. When you install the new points be sure to clean any coating off the contact surfaces before installation because the coating prevents the grounding when the points close. You must have a complete path to ground at the points for the high voltage side of the coil (center terminal) to send current to the plugs via the rotor and distributor cap. BTDT JMHO Stan

 

[mrbushhog]

Making progress! Using a crude .022 gauge I was able to set the points(old ones) to work...better. I can now rotate the engine and voltage readings are good. Now I am moving on to the carburetor. Thanks for the help.

 

[Jim Becker]

Good progress. Have you verified a good spark at the plugs? If so, and if the plug wires are all reinstalled in the right order, you are ready to move on to the fuel system.

 

[mrbushhog]

It ran for a few moments but petered out on its on after about 2 minutes. Making slow progress here.

 

[mrbushhog]

Good progress. Have you verified a good spark at the plugs? If so, and if the plug wires are all reinstalled in the right order, you are ready to move on to the fuel system.

LOL... when I first went to crank it up, nothing. walked around to the other side and the coil wire was still off. It is always the little things.

 

[Glen]

You showed in a picture that I guess you were testing the spark using a spark plug, that works ok.
They also do it this way below on here.
I would test the power of the spark the Battery Ignition unit is making this way also.
Be sure the Cub doesn't roll while doing the spark test.

Remove the ignition wire from the center post on the distributor cap, and hold the wire by the insulation, with the metal end about 1/4" from bare metal of the engine block.
Be sure the transmission is in neutral, turn the ignition switch to on, and run the starter.
The spark should jump the 1/4" gap, and be blue or white. A yellow spark is weak, and needs improving.
The engine may not run, or run right, with a yellow spark.
Do the test in a building, or not in bright light, so you can see the spark well.
The battery should be fully charged for the spark test. Charge the battery if necessary.
A low output charger is better, it may take several hours to charge it.

 

[mrbushhog]

Well the tractor only runs for a few seconds then sputters out still, think it "might" be the condenser. gas is leaking every where, heck even antifreeze is pouring out of the radiator over flow tube after a few seconds of running. no oil pressure was great pressure , think the gauge went out but still need a new oil filter.
Probably going to start a new thread for what all I am going to have to do to this tractor. Maybe sell it cheap and sleep better not having to worry about it.

 

[Bill V in Md]

The Owners Manual says to fill radiator no higher than 2” below top of filler neck. Excess liquid will be expelled through the overflow tube.

 

[Gary Dotson]

It’s pretty common for a Cub oil pump to lose prime when they sit for a long period of time. The pump can be easily primed by removing the filter cover, get a pump oil can and squirt oil into the small hole near the top of filter housing. Put in as much as it will accept, then crank the engine with the starter. If you are successful, oil will squirt out of the hole. You can then re-install the filter cover. It’s quite easy to do, takes about 5 minutes. I have 1 Cub that will sometimes lose prime, over the Winter.

 

[mrbushhog]

The Owners Manual says to fill radiator no higher than 2” below top of filler neck. Excess liquid will be expelled through the overflow tube.

yup, I did over fill it the other day when the cold front came through. I could not see any fluid in the radiator and as soon as I poured some in it was too late. Going to pull some out.

 

[mrbushhog]

It’s pretty common for a Cub oil pump to lose prime when they sit for a long period of time. The pump can be easily primed by removing the filter cover, get a pump oil can and squirt oil into the small hole near the top of filter housing. Put in as much as it will accept, then crank the engine with the starter. If you are successful, oil will squirt out of the hole. You can then re-install the filter cover. It’s quite easy to do, takes about 5 minutes. I have 1 Cub that will sometimes lose prime, over the Winter.

I am thinking that's the issue. I need to get a new oil filter and do the oil in the hole procedure. I had great pressure years ago. just hope I did not hurt the engine, it might have ran 1-2 min and I just put in 3 quarts of new oil.