Hydraulics slowing down?

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DonMountain

Well-known member
On my 1958 or 1959 Cub LoBoy that I mainly use for grass mowing around the farm, the hydraulics system seems to be slowing down sometimes lately. After its warmed up, when I raise or lower the mower deck and hitch with the FastHitch system it sometimes stops or won't move at all. Or moves very slowly. I recently added a little HyTran to the system. But it wasn't down very far. Could it be the filter clogged up? Or something else? I think I cleaned or replaced that filter maybe 25 years ago? But I don't even remember where it was?
 
DonMountain said:
I think I cleaned or replaced that filter maybe 25 years ago? But I don't even remember where it was?
Click to expand...
Hi,
The unit has to be removed from the LoBoy, and the bottom cover removed to see the filter, or strainer, it is called. The strainer can be cleaned through the bottom of the unit. The Touch Control head, on the rear of the unit has to be removed to remove the strainer. Sometimes the screen on the strainer is torn from age. The strainer should be replaced if it is torn.
Below is a listing for the strainer at TM Tractor Parts, you can look at the picture.
https://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/918fp.htm

Below is a picture from TM Tractor Parts of the bottom of a Touch Control, it has many bolts holding the cover on. There should be a gasket there for the cover, it probably needs replacing if you remove the cover.
TM Tractor Parts has a new gasket. The head has a gasket too. :)
 

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put a pressure gauge on it and see if the pump is making enough pressure for it to work normally, if pressure is good then problem is in touch control
 
I thank everyone for your help on this matter. So, are there suggestions besides those that I thought up on why the hydraulic lift has slowed down, or stopped working? And I am going to need some suggestions on how to do things here since I have never dismantled the Touch Control system. The only work I have done on the hydraulic system is to remove the hydraulic lines when splitting the tractor to replace the clutch one time and to have the engine rebuilt a long time ago. And where might I find drawings or a manual on the Touch Control box? And how and where would I put a pressure gauge on the system and what kind of pressure gauge?
 
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DonMountain said:
I thank everyone for your help on this matter. So, are there suggestions besides those that I thought up on why the hydraulic lift has slowed down, or stopped working? And I am going to need some suggestions on how to do things here since I have never dismantled the Touch Control system. The only work I have done on the hydraulic system is to remove the hydraulic lines when splitting the tractor to replace the clutch one time and to have the engine rebuilt a long time ago. And where might I find drawings or a manual on the Touch Control box? And how and where would I put a pressure gauge on the system and what kind of pressure gauge?
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Start by determining which TC block you have by checking the part number. Be sure to get the right parts that match that number and lastly locate the HOW TO that applies to your TC block in the Hydraulics sub-forum. Dale Finch is one of the forum members with extensive knowledge on the subject and she or someone at a Cubfest could assist you in the rebuild/repair. JMHO Stan
EDIT: The Shalllow Creek Farm Cubfest is in your area and the date has not yet been posted. You might contact Barnyard and see what's on the schedule for this year. https://farmallcub.com/community/threads/2025-cubfest-farmall-tractor-show-calendar.117635/
 
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2500 lb gauge on the hydraulic lines at the touch control, has plugs in the hole now , remove plug ,install gauge, shop manual will explain it all
 
I thank you all for your help on this hydraulics problem. I don't have a shop manual for this tractor. All as I have is the user manual that just tells me how to run, adjust and maintain the tractor. Where might I find one of these shop manuals?
 
Hi,
Below is the Cub and LoBoy service manual, it has lots of info.
I would read the hydraulic section, section 8, before working on the Touch Control.
There is a contents beginning on page 1 of most sections, that makes it easier to use online.
https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue Ribbon Service Manuals/GSS-1411 Service Manual for Cubs and Lo-boy Tractors/index.html

This manual was made in the 1970's so it has 6 volt, and newer, 12 volt electrical system info.

Below are pages from the Cub and LoBoy parts manual, showing the Touch Control, and what is in it.
It says all LoBoys that have Touch Control came with the newer 360719R1 Touch Control, so the info Stan posted above isn't for your Touch Control, unless someone put on an older Touch Control.
There is a How To for the newer Touch Control.
The part number is cast in the left side of the unit.
https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub Parts Manuals/TC-37F Revision 3/Group 10 - Hydraulics/Page 10-05.jpg

https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub Parts Manuals/TC-37F Revision 3/Group 10 - Hydraulics/Page 10-06.jpg


Like was said above, it's a good idea to check the pump pressure first. The smaller Touch Control tube is the pressure side of the system.
If you don't feel comfortable working on, or disassembling a Touch Control, you can try to find someone that knows about them, maybe someone on here would help you with it.
Below is the How To for the 360719R1 Touch Control.
T

Thread 'Hydraulic Block Rebuild'

This is a rebuild for hydraulic block 360719R1. Different block(s) will require different parts so make sure to get the right rebuild kit. There are some variances as well but this should still be of assistance. The pictures should tell the story on their own. As has been previously noted on the forum, the replacement filter (screen) is a bit too long. You will have to make it fit as best as you can (it is about an 1/8 inch too long).
(See this thread for additional information: https://farmallcub.com/community/threads/farmall-cub-touch-control-block-rebuild.118209/post-945651)...
 
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That is a lot to digest. And where might I find one of these pressure gauges for a 2500 pound hydraulic system? And the 2500 pound pressure fittings? Regular steel pipe is only Schedule 40 grade (120 psi) or Schedule 80 grade (300 psi). So even that 6" pipe nipple is not easily obtained at a local hardware store? And what is a "snubber"?
 
You can look online for a pressure gauge. tst probably knows how to test the system pressure.
The system has to have fluid to work. If the pump shaft o ring is leaking, the fluid can run out of the Touch Control into the engine oil pan.
Check the oil level on the dipstick, if it goes up, the o ring is leaking the fluid into the engine oil.
Then the pump would need new o rings, TM Tractor Parts has the Case IH seal kit for the pump.
The fluid level should be to the filler plug hole with the arms in the rear, or down position.
 
Well, I would like to apologize for all of this discussion as I have figured out what was wrong with the Cub Lo-Boy. But not how to fix it. I had a similar problem about 2 months ago with only a little loss of hydraulic movement of the lift system. And had put maybe 1/4 pint of HyTran in there to resolve the issue at that time. About 2 weeks ago I changed the oil and put a new filter in the tractor, filling it up to the top line on the dip stick. Then a week ago, the hydraulics started slowing down and not working again. So thats when my discussion started because I thought something was happening to the touch control box. Today I pulled the fill plug on the touch control box again, and it was low as I couldn't touch the level with my finger. Filling it back up, it started working again. So, now the problem is? Am I filling it with the hydraulic piston in the wrong position? Or is all my HyTran leaking through the hydraulic pump? I pulled the engine oil dip stick and the level hasn't come up any that I could tell from when I changed it two weeks ago? But I could have erased all the evidence by changing the oil two weeks ago?
 
DonMountain said:
Am I filling it with the hydraulic piston in the wrong position?
Click to expand...
The system is supposed to be filled to the filler plug hole with the arms in the rear, or down position.
The fluid level rises as the arms go to the rear position. It is supposed to have an airspace above the fluid. If you fill it with the arms ahead, it will have too much fluid in it.
If you check it with the arms ahead, when it has the right amount of fluid in it, it will look low, even if it has enough fluid.
If you filled it with the arms ahead, I would remove the filler plug, run the engine, and move the arms to the rear position, and let the extra fluid run out.
DonMountain said:
Or is all my HyTran leaking through the hydraulic pump?
Click to expand...
If the oil level on the dipstick isn't rising, the fluid isn't going into the engine, unless it is a slow leak. If the engine is burning any oil, or smoking, the oil level might stay the same, with the engine burning it.
Touch Controls can leak at the front of them, and the fluid runs down the clutch housing, under the rockshaft area. Look and see if it is leaking there. Use a light if needed.
 
Thank you Glen for the recommendations. I did fill the reservoir with the arms at the rear. I think my operator's manual tells me to do that. And of course the front of the hydraulic reservoir is completely covered with grime, old oil and dust from mowing all summer. This is strictly a working tractor and not a collector tractor. So it is hard to keep it clean. And recently I had a leak through the brass washer under the bolt head that holds the engine oil filter together, contributing to all the mess all over the tractor. And my wife who uses it the most doesn't notice these kinds of things. So, any suggestions on how to clean all of this oil and debris off? I don't have a steam cleaner? I have 50 psi water from the yard hydrant and 120 psi air from the air compressor? Gasoline as a solvent applied with a brush and air nozzle to blow it all off?
 
Water spray is Ok, just cover the distributor, vr, gen, and starter. The electrical system doesn't like operate as it should if it gets wet. Suggest you use an industrial type cleaner like purple power, mean green, etc and spray it or apply with a brush. Let it soak for awhile then wash it off, might need to repeat. No pressured water on the radiator fins or you might bend them. JMHO Stan
 
I clean heavy "gunk" off with putty knife, screwdrivers (for tight spots) then wire brushes of various sizes. My cleaning solvent of choice is kerosene. Spray it on (any hand held spray bottle), let it sit a while, use a wire brush, then more spraying to flush the crud off. Finally I'll use some kind of cleaner (I like Krud Kutter in a spray bottle) followed by a good water rinse.

Some jobs simply take old-fashioned elbow grease!!
 
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