It is time for the Farmall - McCormick 1955 (I think) Cub to act up. Not charging. Going through the steps of Flow Chart 8, I'm to the point where I need to run a line from FLD terminal to Ground. So, do I take off the hood, disconnect gas, etc., to find the FLD terminal or can I get to it with hood in place. Where might I find it? Can I do this step without hood disassembly? More enjoyable to do this in the summer.... Thanks for helping...I"m sure you guys can help!
How to find FLD terminal on generator under hood
- Thread starter DickB
- Start date
Hi,
The Field connection on the voltage regulator I have is on the side of the regulator with the 3 connections. It is toward the rear of the tractor, if you have the regulator mounted the original way, with the 3 connections under the hood, or facing toward the engine.
If you have the reg mounted with the 3 connections facing out, then it is easy to see the markings on the connections, if you take the wires off, one at a time, there should be a F stamped in the metal between the screw hole, and the reg base.
The Field wire is short, it goes from the voltage regulator to the F post on top of the generator. You can trace it from the regulator to the generator.
I don't have a pic of the posts on top of the gen. They are usually marked with an A for Armature, and a F for Field.
The other connections on the reg are marked also, Bat, for battery, and L.
The connection on the side of the reg with 1 connection is Gen.
I've never seen a reg with them in different positions, but anything is possible.
The Field connection on the voltage regulator I have is on the side of the regulator with the 3 connections. It is toward the rear of the tractor, if you have the regulator mounted the original way, with the 3 connections under the hood, or facing toward the engine.
If you have the reg mounted with the 3 connections facing out, then it is easy to see the markings on the connections, if you take the wires off, one at a time, there should be a F stamped in the metal between the screw hole, and the reg base.
The Field wire is short, it goes from the voltage regulator to the F post on top of the generator. You can trace it from the regulator to the generator.
I don't have a pic of the posts on top of the gen. They are usually marked with an A for Armature, and a F for Field.
The other connections on the reg are marked also, Bat, for battery, and L.
The connection on the side of the reg with 1 connection is Gen.
I've never seen a reg with them in different positions, but anything is possible.
So, instead of attaching a jumper wire to the Generator at the FLD terminal, I could as well attach it at the Voltage Regulator at the F post? That would be handy if that is the fact...and it seems to be. Please advise.
I have an old VR and I use it to check on the markings on those 3 terminals that are on the engine side.
I have an old VR and I use it to check on the markings on those 3 terminals that are on the engine side.
Yes, but with one warning. If testing by grounding the regulator field shows a bad generator, it could be a bad generator or a bad wire/connection between the 2 FLD connectors. You would need to check the wire before knowing conclusively that the generator is bad.DickB":15s8x1fb said:
Got down to the final step on Flow Chart 8. That's 4.Jumper "Bat" and "Gen" at VR with jumper on from "FLD" (at VR) to ground (+ on battery). Had to get help to watch the ammeter as I had Cub purring, and then hooked Bat to Gen at VR. The meter pinned all the way over to charge. And it stayed there, even when I removed the wire. Hmm. So it was the VR. (Phewww, a rebuilt generator is $265 and a half-day trip.) Called Brillman for a new VR (USA made, 6v, flat mount). It is on it's way.
With both jumper wires disconnected the ammeter did not show any charging. For the heck of it, a points file will be experimented with while awaiting the new VR.
Thanks for help...much appreciated and helpful indeed.
With both jumper wires disconnected the ammeter did not show any charging. For the heck of it, a points file will be experimented with while awaiting the new VR.
Thanks for help...much appreciated and helpful indeed.
Recheck the ground of the VR, both case to base and base to tractor frame..
Will do that in a day or two. Thanks for suggestion. Snow in the immediate forecast so fun in the barn postponed until things are a bit warmer...at least for now. Brillman mentioned to me that it might be a good idea, on a tractor that sits around unstarted for weeks at a time to get a trickle charger and hook it up to it. Thoughts on that? If I did it, are there 6v versions (suggestions on the good and the not so hot ones?) and if there are does one hook pos to pos (as stated on battery), and neg lead to battery neg? And leave the connections to the tractor in place?
I agree on the charger. There are inexpensive charger/maintainers that you can leave hooked to the battery when you are not using it. I got several from Wal-Mart, made by Schumacher. They were in the 1-1/2 to 2 amp charging range and would switch over to maintainer mode when the battery was charged. I have 3 different versions as I got them at different times. All work fine. They cost about $20 each. I haven't looked in the store lately to see what they currently have. I tried some cheaper off brand ones and decided they are not trustworthy (one clearly quit working, others seemed to continue functioning). As you may plug it in and walk away for extended time, stick with reputable name brands.
Yes, connect positive to positive and you can leave the cables connected.
Yes, connect positive to positive and you can leave the cables connected.
OK. Thanks Jim, thanks TIm. I'll take a look at WalMart and TSC. Will check in on Amazon as well. $20 or so sounds like A-OK,
Tim--Time to put the snow plow on, get the sicklebar of, but procrastinating on that. Hoping for a bit of a warming so that the remaining hidden acre or so of field can be mowed and left. Then the plow and...it has your spring on the bottom.... Ready to go.
Tim--Time to put the snow plow on, get the sicklebar of, but procrastinating on that. Hoping for a bit of a warming so that the remaining hidden acre or so of field can be mowed and left. Then the plow and...it has your spring on the bottom.... Ready to go.
I did a quick look at Wal-Mart online and didn't see a maintainer similar to mine. This link shows is to one but I think you are kind of far from Fleet Farm.
https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/schuma ... gLu0_D_BwE
If you go to Amazon and search for "battery maintainer" you find many choices. Be sure to look for one that is 6- and 12-volt and from a known/reputable company.
https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/schuma ... gLu0_D_BwE
If you go to Amazon and search for "battery maintainer" you find many choices. Be sure to look for one that is 6- and 12-volt and from a known/reputable company.
Thanks, Jim. There's a Schumacher 6/12v one at TSC, and also more of them at Amazon. Here's the one at Amazon, which is the latest version of the now outdated one at TSC.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0756 ... UTF8&psc=1
I'm interested in the extra wires that come with it. Looks like you can permanently wire the battery (with a connector probably dangling out of the Cub battery box) for a simple hookup to the Trickle Charger. So, if cords are long enough I should be able to bring the Cub into the barn, have the Trickler on a nearby shelf, plug it in, and go off for something else to do. That appeals to me. Otherwise, I might well be interested in putting in an electrical outlet nearer to the Cub for just that.
BTW, Amazon puts it in the mailbox in 2 days. No driving (30+miles RT) for $1.50 more. The changing world....
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0756 ... UTF8&psc=1
I'm interested in the extra wires that come with it. Looks like you can permanently wire the battery (with a connector probably dangling out of the Cub battery box) for a simple hookup to the Trickle Charger. So, if cords are long enough I should be able to bring the Cub into the barn, have the Trickler on a nearby shelf, plug it in, and go off for something else to do. That appeals to me. Otherwise, I might well be interested in putting in an electrical outlet nearer to the Cub for just that.
BTW, Amazon puts it in the mailbox in 2 days. No driving (30+miles RT) for $1.50 more. The changing world....
DickB":19i60ix3 said:
On the 6-volt Cubs, it is so easy to use the alligator clips on the stud of the starter switch that I just use the clips on that stud and a nearby bolt head. The 12-volt Cubs are not nearly as easy to use the alligator clips. So I attached one of the pig tails to an ammeter lug and a fuel tank mounting bolt. I stuff it in on top of the Touch-Control unit when it isn't plugged in. I only once had one work its way out and rest against the exhaust pipe. The cords on the charger are reasonable length, but you do need the outlet to be pretty nearby.
This reminded me of George Willer's Jumper Tabs making it even easier. http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=140&t=16548Jim Becker":3rq67ovk said:
That's terrific, Scrivet. Got the Trickle Charger yesterday and could not get a good ground contact near the starter, so went to the battery instead. It was a time issue thing. George Willer's Jumper Tabs look good and easy to do. Nice. But, since I've got the battery box top off, I thought I'd try out the permanent connector wires that came with the Trickle Charger. It looks like I would slip them over the bolts that tighten the lead "heads" that slip over the battery terminals. That would be a convenient wire/connector dangling out the battery box Just slip the inline connection into place....
In case I didn't mention it earlier, John Brillman spoke with me about VT failures caused by batteries slowly lowering their charge over weeks and weeks of a tractor not being used. He said that a surge of "juice' (my word) comes jolting from the Generator into the VR in these instances and, if this happens over a months and months, the VR gets damaged and fails. The solution he suggested was the Trickle Charger hooked to the battery when at rest...keeping that battery topped up. That's why I bought one. It is out there right now either charging or maintaining. I'll find out in daylight. So today I'll put in a new VR from Brillman, polarize the Generator, and see if the ammeter signals that all is A-OK, as always...just for the moment...in the Cb world. Ahhh, that Cub.
In case I didn't mention it earlier, John Brillman spoke with me about VT failures caused by batteries slowly lowering their charge over weeks and weeks of a tractor not being used. He said that a surge of "juice' (my word) comes jolting from the Generator into the VR in these instances and, if this happens over a months and months, the VR gets damaged and fails. The solution he suggested was the Trickle Charger hooked to the battery when at rest...keeping that battery topped up. That's why I bought one. It is out there right now either charging or maintaining. I'll find out in daylight. So today I'll put in a new VR from Brillman, polarize the Generator, and see if the ammeter signals that all is A-OK, as always...just for the moment...in the Cb world. Ahhh, that Cub.