Hiller Disc Setup

B

B. White

Member
I'm going to give the cub its first real job since I've had it and will hill a few rows to plant sweet potatoes in a few weeks. These discs in the pic came with it. The previous owners ran them until slap wore out. I don't guess they could get the old disc on the left off to replace it, so they took a newer disc and cut the center out and bolted it to the old one. I'm cheap, but not that cheap, so I went ahead and ordered new discs already on shanks.

Looking at the tractor I would think the one with the longer bar would go on the left for hilling, but the way it is mounted now it would go on the right. Found a couple of youtube videos and it is hard to tell. Some do look like the long one is on the right side, but some of them don't look setup right and their rows are off center, best I can tell when they show it from the front. Found the page from a manual below, but it shows offset shanks so I'm still not sure.

I understand I'll need to play with them to get it the way I want, but figured I'll ask and make it easy before I start off wrong. Also, if you have run these about what distance apart on the trailing edges worked good as a starting point.

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Long arm definitely goes on the right. Ag Supply has the hillers. They are chinese but they work. I have them for the 140s.
 
Your ground speed and angle of discs will determine how far and how high dirt is hilled. I'm thinking I set mine at about 35º. I converted this 3 pt. model to FH for my 130 w/cultivators. IIRC I hilled these potatoes 3 times through the season. Puttered along in first gear the first time, second time first gear about 3/4 throttle, this last pass second gear about half throttle. I bought new 15" hiller disc's mounted on shanks, replacing the 13" one's that were on it. They do a dandy job

With these, I set them about 3" wider than the previous pass a week to 10 days before so as to get into some "new dirt". Pretty handy to cultivate first, then hill with the same tractor to loosen the soil. I marked the different spacing on the toolbar with a paint pen to make it a somewhat permanent mark centering the shank. A cordless impact speeds re-setting them an easy job.
 
workinonit said:
On the 140s anything mounted in that from slot on the right has to be on a long tool bar to reach the center of the row.
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Understood, but he was asking about a cub. Setting the bars equidistant in the clamps on a cub centers them. I’m not familiar at all with cultivators on a 140 and don’t doubt what you’re saying
 
I'll play with it in a couple of weeks and see what it does. Thanks for the input. After looking again, I don't think it is going to matter which goes on which, since I think they are going to have to be as far out as they will go, but my only experience is with bigger discs I mounted to a cultivator frame that are at 24" on the trailing edge. These smaller discs may work fine closer, but I won't know until I try. When I went back and looked the sweeps on it now have the same bar setup and the long one is on the left side adjusted inward and the short one on the right is as far out as it will go.
 
For my two cents I run a mason string from a pin in the center of the drawbar to the center of the tie rod, I can then use that to set up hillers and cultivators or a shovel to mark my rows without having to eyeball the center. There may be an easier way but it works for me.
 
Plowed up Irish taters last week with a middle buster and ran an all purpose plow through it today. A little grassy, but it has been wet and more rain coming Thursday, so I didn't want to mess around with harrow or tiller. I set them as far out as I can get them and laid out some rows for sweet taters. Close enough for me. Will be quick and easy next time. Not fun getting them level when it is 93.

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I have seen many where the mounting arms have been cut shorter, they were the same length from the factory
 
SONNY said:
Watch the oil pan when you mount this stuff!!! Neighbor found that out the hard way!!
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I ordered the shortest available from Agri Supply and went ahead and cut a couple of inches off after comparing to the old originals. L/H side still made me a little nervous when checking it. It has about 3/4" clearance. I used a brick under each side to set the height when up. It is not a lot of clearance for travelling, but looks like it will work.
 
Hi,
You can set the upper stop at the Touch Control lever so the arms don't go fully up, so implements have more clearance under the Cub. :)
 
the sets on mine are either broke off or never been moved since new and very corroded so I cant use them anyway. I just set stuff under so it dont hit and go!
 
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