Henderson loader questions

[radioguy41]

I now have a Henderson loader for the Cub, thanks ajhbike, and have some questions.

I believe at one time TM had some photos and information on their website that is no longer available. Does anyone have copies of it that could email it to me?

Is there any chance anyone has a copy of the hydraulics schematic?

Are there any photos/illustrations of the installation process other than the manual?

Any detailed photos/closeups of an installation would be greatly appreciated.

This is the style/model I have:

 

[Barnyard]

View attachment 5

 

[radioguy41]

Thanks. Is that yours and if so, where's you get the decal?

 

[Barnyard]

Not mine. It belonged to Bud Sottong before he passed away. Photos were taken at his CubFest several years ago.

 

[radioguy41]

Oh, ok, thanks.

 

[muleboss]

Here some pictures of one I have[atta

 

[radioguy41]

Thanks. Interesting how the upper support bars were filled in. On mine someone added bracing underneath instead.

 

[radioguy41]

I need to replace two of the steel rods shown below, the two upper ones. What I'm not sure of is the type of steel since there is a lot of pressure applied to them when operating the loader. Anybody ever come across any specs for something like this?

Click on image for a larger view.

 

[ajhbike]

I would look into shaft stock

 

[Gary Dotson]

Rather than being 2 separate rods, I would think that would have originally been 1 continuous rod. Probably was hot roll steel, originally.

 

[radioguy41]

Yes, they are one piece rods but in total there are three of them. One was saved intact but two were cut. You can see the lengths in the illustration I posted above.

Made some progress this morning. I was able to break loose the two cylinders at the upper rod ends. I can move each about 30-40 degrees so it's a matter of time until they are completely loose and I can wedge them off.

 

[SamsFarm]

What I'm not sure of is the type of steel since there is a lot of pressure applied to them when operating the loader.

Probably was hot roll steel, originally.

My guess woud be hot rolled steel too!

Quick internet search
From https://www.mkmetal.net/steel/bar/hot-rolled

Hot rolled steel
"Tensile Strength 67,000 psi"

1" hot rolled bar has a area of .7854 square inches.

67,000 x .7854 = 52,621.8 pounds of pressure to stretch your 1" bars

 

[radioguy41]

I'm pretty sure it's not alloy steel, high carbon steel, or any kind of hardened steel. My Sawzall cuts through it like butter. I'm looking at grade 1018 rods, 59,465 psi tensile strength.

AISI1018 Carbon Steel is a low carbon steel which is characterized by good weldability, good machinability, high strength and impact properties in either the normalized or hot forged condition. SAE1018/AISI1018 steel is widely used for screw machine parts, shafts, pins, spindles and rods.

I was able to remove both cylinders this afternoon, once I cut the ends of the shaft off.

Click on image for a larger view.

 

[radioguy41]

Picked up a little hydraulic tool to help with getting those shaft stubs out (and some other things) but it'll have to wait for Spring.
The frame is in storage in the shed for the Winter.

Click on image for a larger view.

 

[T-Mo]

Check our pdf manual section.

http://farmallcub.com/fcman/index.php?d ... ls&order=0

I had this posted a few years back. I had one on a '44 B, traded the tractor with loader last year.

Here is a video of it when I first bought it.

[youtube]9l2JzIyPxM0[/youtube]

 

[Matt Kirsch]

A little late to the party I know but I'm betting the rods are nothing more than ordinary "mild steel."

 

[radioguy41]

You learn something new every day. Today I learned that the shaft the loader frame pivots on is not a single shaft at all but two stub shafts held in place by a large pin thru the tube and shaft at each end (see image below). Unfortunately we worked at it for a couple of hours but can not budge either stub, they are rusted fast. Used a hydraulic press and heated the tube red hot but no budge. So, what to do? Well, something that has come to my attention may have an impact on my decision. With that tube in place between the gas tank and torque tube it seems it interferes with the rockshaft. It does not allow the rockshaft to come fully forward before it hits the tube. The other thing is with the tube going across under the tank like that it is a real bugger trying to get your hand in there to turn on the gas.

Later models of this loader were made differently. There is a piece of channel iron running vertically on each side with a horizontal brace attached across the top of the gas tank. The tube between the tank and torque tube is left out. This allows the rockshaft to have full motion and also easier access to the fuel bowl. My welding shop/machinist friend thinks we can modify this puppy to closely match the later style. I think I'm going to have to massage that idea for a bit before I make a decision.

Click on image for a larger view.


My style.


Later style.

 

[Jim Becker]

. . . With that tube in place between the gas tank and torque tube it seems it interferes with the rockshaft. It does not allow the rockshaft to come fully forward before it hits the tube. . . .

That is a deliberate piece of the design. It allows you to power the loader from the Touch-Control without a hydraulic bypass block.

 

[radioguy41]

Small update. My friend Mike the welder made a new tube for me (using the original end plates) and I ordered a pair of new 1" pins that fit perfectly. Now I gotta find a tractor to start hanging this stuff on.

Click on images for a larger view.

 

[radioguy41]

Got around to lining up the new pins and drilling the retainer pin holes. Just in case the holes weren't perfectly centered I notched the pins (1 for the left, 2 for the right) and notched the top of the tube on each side accordingly to avoid possibly mixing them up side to side. Works perfectly. Next up is paint but too cold and damp right now.

Click on image for a larger view.