Help for snow plow frame removal

[Swede]

This Cub has had poor if any maintenance for years and I want to improve on that. Trying to remove the snow plow frame the bolt that passes throw the casting below the engine was totally bound up. after much work and Deep Creep I have it out this far with help from a friend. i know the bushing blocks were not properly utilized and feay the bolt is bent. can't get any more pulled than what shows. Thoughts on cutting the bolt on the right side and trying to drive back out the left side? Ideas to fully extract as kinda leary of the cut and drive idea but has to come out so I can make things correct. Thank you for considerations!

PS what has to happen so I can correct the final drive leak?

 

[tst]

final drive leak, look to see if the oil is coming from the hole where the brake rod goes in, if so probably the axle seal at the transmission

 

[Jim Becker]

I have a couple suggestions. Assuming the spacer blocks are both in there and near the proper position, the bolt that far out should be free of the left block. This might be a bad idea, but you might loosen the setscrew/bolt for the right block. A little freedom for it to move may ease some pressure on the bolt. How much freedom of movement does the frame now have? Is it possible to move it enough to get it out of the way for removing the left block? It might also help to put a jack under the frame, directly under the bolt to release any weight that is currently hanging on the bolt. If you get the left block and left side of the frame out of the way, there is probably no down side to knocking the bolt back in

 

[Don McCombs]

I don’t think I see any evidence of the use of a rust penetrant on what you have done so far. I would use a liberal application of something like PB Blaster on the bolt and retainer blocks and let it sit for several days. Then try again. The bolt is a standard Grade 8, 5/8-11 X 12 bolt. So, if you have to eventually cut it, it’s easily replaced.

 

[john2189]

Did you try turning the bolt to see if there is a spot where it is looser?

 

[MM-TX]

This Cub has had poor if any maintenance for years and I want to improve on that. Trying to remove the snow plow frame the bolt that passes throw the casting below the engine was totally bound up. after much work and Deep Creep I have it out this far with help from a friend. i know the bushing blocks were not properly utilized and feay the bolt is bent. can't get any more pulled than what shows. Thoughts on cutting the bolt on the right side and trying to drive back out the left side? Ideas to fully extract as kinda leary of the cut and drive idea but has to come out so I can make things correct. Thank you for considerations!

PS what has to happen so I can correct the final drive leak?

I think @Jim Becker and @john2189 have good advice. I would also split/chisel (or cut with a multitool if you have one) and get that other wood block out of the way. Then jack and or block or leaver the frame to get the binding sideways stress off that bolt. If that's not good enough a small bearing splitter on that bolt head will work better than that pickle fork.

 

[Glen]

PS what has to happen so I can correct the final drive leak?

Hi,
They have said on here that the transmission oil level being too high can make the seals on the axle shafts leak, then oil runs out on the brakes, and on the ground.
I would check the trans oil level, or change the trans oil before replacing the oil seals.
Cubs commonly get water in the trans from rain, or condensation in the housing over time. The trans could have water in the oil, raising the oil level. Or the oil could be overfilled, and make the seals leak.
The Cub operator's manual shows where the 3 transmission oil plugs are.
The oil filler plug is to the rear of the shifter.
The oil level plug is low on the left side of the trans. Fill it until oil runs out the hole.
The oil drain plug is at the bottom of the trans, visible from under the platform.
The trans holds 3 1/2 Pints of oil.
All the capacities are in the operator's manual.

I sent you a message about the final drives. You get to it at the upper right of the page.
Be sure both ends of the brake pin go in the holes for them as you put the final drive on, it can break the casting if the pin is not in the holes, and you tighten the bolts holding the final drive on.
The picture below shows putting the final drive on the Cub, it is the right side in the pic.
It is the 2nd style of brake in the picture. The 1st style has a pin also.

 

[Swede]

This Cub has had poor if any maintenance for years and I want to improve on that. Trying to remove the snow plow frame the bolt that passes throw the casting below the engine was totally bound up. after much work and Deep Creep I have it out this far with help from a friend. i know the bushing blocks were not properly utilized and feay the bolt is bent. can't get any more pulled than what shows. Thoughts on cutting the bolt on the right side and trying to drive back out the left side? Ideas to fully extract as kinda leary of the cut and drive idea but has to come out so I can make things correct. Thank you for considerations!

PS what has to happen so I can correct the final drive leak?

WOW Fellas! a wealth of council and advice. Will pursue all and report back. Thank you so much!

 

[cdahl383]

I've had much better luck using Kroil vs PB Blaster. Soak it with Kroil and knock the bolt back and forth, don't just try to drive it out one way right off the bat. Working it back and forth will usually help get it out easier, though it takes some time and patience.

Hit it with a brass drift and dead blow hammer. The brass drift will deform before the bolt as it is a softer metal. The dead blow hammer will help transfer more of the energy through the bolt rather than bouncing off the brass drift as a regular hammer would.

I've done the same thing with frozen dirtbike swingarm bolts and bushings. Kroil, brass drift, dead blow hammer, repeat, use patience haha!

 

[offrink]

I've had much better luck using Kroil vs PB Blaster. Soak it with Kroil and knock the bolt back and forth, don't just try to drive it out one way right off the bat. Working it back and forth will usually help get it out easier, though it takes some time and patience.

Hit it with a brass drift and dead blow hammer. The brass drift will deform before the bolt as it is a softer metal. The dead blow hammer will help transfer more of the energy through the bolt rather than bouncing off the brass drift as a regular hammer would.

I've done the same thing with frozen dirtbike swingarm bolts and bushings. Kroil, brass drift, dead blow hammer, repeat, use patience haha!

Came to say the exact same thing. Large brass drift with a 3+lb lead or brass or dead blow hammer. It might take a while but spray, hammer, back and forth, and spray and hammer and back and forth. It will come. I’ve never hear of the bold bending in the middle with blocks.

 

[Swede]

I have a couple suggestions. Assuming the spacer blocks are both in there and near the proper position, the bolt that far out should be free of the left block. This might be a bad idea, but you might loosen the setscrew/bolt for the right block. A little freedom for it to move may ease some pressure on the bolt. How much freedom of movement does the frame now have? Is it possible to move it enough to get it out of the way for removing the left block? It might also help to put a jack under the frame, directly under the bolt to release any weight that is currently hanging on the bolt. If you get the left block and left side of the frame out of the way, there is probably no down side to knocking the bolt back in

Bolt rotates freely but with a wobble. Only plow frame yet attached is the "U" hanging from the bolt so no bind weight. Can't get the left arm of the frame to clear the casing pocket to see if I can fish out the bushing block. Will hit the job again tomorrow.