Hdyro trans-rear ends

J

Jack Donovan

501 Club
Hi all, I bought a Hdyro rear end at an Auction, Cub cadet unit. I don't know anything about them and was wandering if there was a way of testing it to se if it was any good. was thinking of setting it on saw hourses and mounting a electric motor to it with a couple pullys to see if it would work and shift . What do you all think. I'm open for any suggestions.. Jack
 
Jack,
from my experience, there is not really too much to go wrong with one of the hydro rear ends. If you cannot turn the wheels/axles, without depressing the dump valves, then it is holding pressure good. If you can depress the dump valves, and turn the wheels/axles, then the valves are working ok. If you open up the rear cover, and the hytran fluid looks fairly good, then I'd say your probably in good shape.

Other than that, the only way I could envision testing one would be to install it in a tractor. The biggest problem with testing would be getting the linkage and swash plate oriented the right direction. The original designer/installer of hydros in Cub Cadets immediately flipped the tractor over, because he had the shift linkage directly connected to a control lever, which gave him no wiggle room, and the hydro engaged the second he moved the lever. After that he designed the swash plate, which lets you move the linkage quite a bit before the hydro engages.

Just some info for thought.
Bill
 
gitractorman
I think you mean that after flipping the tractor over Mr. Ricketts designed designed a lever and cam assembly to control the swash plate. Initially the speed/direction control lever was connected directly to the pump's internal swash plate which made it basically impossible to feather or gently change direction or speed - either were instant. He designed the lever and cam as an interface between the speed/direction control lever and the swash plate to make things more manageable.
 
There are two books that I feel are a necessity as a Cub Cadet owner and enthusiast. One is Ken Updike's (bermuda Ken) book, Original Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet. This one is an excellent reference, covering all of the IH built Cub Cadets, and the International Cub and number series Lo-boys.. The link below is from the publishing company, but you may PM Ken to see where the best place is to purchase it. http://www.motorbooks.com/Store/Product ... _32789.ncm

Another great book is Hank Will's Cub Cadet the First 45 Years. http://www.greenmagazine.com/store/page17.html

Hank did a great job assembling this and it is an amazing reference. It has a section in the back, Chapter 8, which goes through every tractor model built by IH, including serial numbers, specs, capacities, tire options, etc. It is a very handy reference when looking at a Cub Cadet to buy.

I use both of them all of the time, both as reference and my kids love to look at all the pictures.. Ok, I do too.

Bill
 
Hi Jack. I'm using a similar set-up in a small ride around rig. To test mine, I hooked up my Dewalt 18volt cordless to the shaft, using a piece of hose and found it spins just fine. An electric motor would work even better. Those dump valves can be a pain to free up if they're rusted. Took me awhile.

Rick
 
Jack
I suppose we should have asked what type of Cub Cadet hydro you bought. Is it shaft driven or belt driven? If it is a shaft driven, Sunstrand model 15-U unit from an IH built Cub Cadet Garden tractor (case will look a lot like a Cub transmission case with the hydro pump/transmission mounted on the front of it) they are pretty much bullet proof.

It it is a belt driven, Peerless type from a Cadet Lawn tractor, then yes, you want to check it out before going to the trouble of building something out of it.

In addition to using the Sunstrand 15-U hydro in the higher end models, the later MTD built Cub Cadets used several different kinds of hydro's, depending on the model, such as Peerless, Eaton, Hydro-Gear or AutoHydro , etc, and I would check them first.
 
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