Gaskets?

P

pett3227b

Well-known member
I'm working on my Cub motor and am wondering what most people do with the gaskets? Should I put a sealant on just the back of each gasket or on both sides? I am used to using high tack and like it. I was putting it on both sides but then found it to be difficult when trying to disassemble again. Are all the gaskets on the C-60 engine going to function fine with just sealant on the back of them? Thank-you
 
This is a mechanics trick of the trade and EVERYONE will have a process they like. Most gaskets from factories will be installed DRY, however the manufacturer doesn’t do maintenance and really doesn’t care what happens out the door. In certain applications I like to use Aviation Perm-a-Tex in other applications I will use Dow Corning DC-4 (distributor gasket where I need to turn to adjust timing) but I can tell you I NEVER use RTV as a gasket sealant. That being said someone will come along and swear by RTV. So it’s a mechanics call and what works for them doesn’t work for someone else.

I think everyone will agree on copper spray gasket sealer on head gasket and sealer on the head bolts treads (threads only).

NJ Farmer
 
NJ Farmer":vktgnxql said:
This is a mechanics trick of the trade and EVERYONE will have a process they like. Most gaskets from factories will be installed DRY, however the manufacturer doesn’t do maintenance and really doesn’t care what happens out the door. In certain applications I like to use Aviation Perm-a-Tex in other applications I will use Dow Corning DC-4 (distributor gasket where I need to turn to adjust timing) but I can tell you I NEVER use RTV as a gasket sealant. That being said someone will come along and swear by RTV. So it’s a mechanics call and what works for them doesn’t work for someone else.

I think everyone will agree on copper spray gasket sealer on head gasket and sealer on the head bolts treads (threads only).

NJ Farmer
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RTV works fine and there is nothing wrong with it. It gets a bad rap cause almost NO ONE READS DIRECTIONS, and therefore DON'T USE IT CORRECTLY. OR they use massive globs of it that fall off like your hear people complain about it plugging passages. I have used it with and without gaskets. I don't have issues with it. I use Ultra grey and ultra black.

The Right Stuff I think it's called is like an RTV but doesn't have to sit as long before returning to service. I use it as well.
 
I like Hi- Tack, usually just on one side, to aid assembly. If the surface is a bit rough, I’ll apply it to both sides. I generally use the spray Hi-Tack. There are applications where a silicone, such as Ultra Gray or Ultra Copper will be used on a gasket, such as an intake or exhaust manifold, it has no place on paper or cork gaskets. If you need it on those, pitch the gasket and just use the silicone.
 
Most RTV’s are silicone and NOT compatible with petroleum products….ie Oil and Gas. Also RTV will cement the gasket in place making the next caretaker job twice as hard.

Again what works for you is great….keep it up! This is not up for debate it’s just technique.

NJ Farmer
 
The best, I have found, is "Permatex Ultra Black Oil Resistant Gasket Maker".
I could never get my Cub oil filter housing lid cover to not leak oil. I always used a new gasket. Now I use the Permatex and it is leak free. There is no need for the Cub felt gasket.
You need to follow the directions. Here's how:
- Apply a bead (1/16" - 1/4") on one metal surface.
- Then finger tighten the bolt until the silicone just starts to ooze out.
- Let it set 1 Hr.
- Then do a final tighten to "form" the gasket
There will be no leak.

John
 
tst":1xucwwdz said:
rtv is not always a good idea, some of the gaskets are thick for a reason for clearance
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I won't argue with you on that. Some gaskets on many applications are a certain thickness for a reason.
 
NJ Farmer":lkog6b87 said:
Most RTV’s are silicone and NOT compatible with petroleum products….ie Oil and Gas. Also RTV will cement the gasket in place making the next caretaker job twice as hard.

Again what works for you is great….keep it up! This is not up for debate it’s just technique.

NJ Farmer
Click to expand...
Some of the RTV are not compatible with oils, none are compatible with gas. This is where you need to read your directions so that you use and Ultra Grey or black on an oil sealing surface as they are oil compatible and 100% made for that application. This goes back to what I said about reading the directions. Use blue RTV on valve covers or assemblies with oil and they will fail.
 
Okay thanks guys. I think that I will stick with the High tack but only use it on one side. I am definitely using the copper stuff on my head gasket and head bolt threads. I will check my exhaust manifold gasket to see what it is made of.
 
pett3227b":377pyoz9 said:
I am definitely using the copper stuff on my head gasket and head bolt threads.
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Hi,
They have said on here to not use the copper spray on the head bolt threads.
The head bolt threads need Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket on them, it is a non hardening liquid.
If you buy one, stir it before using it, it can settle in the can sitting.
Below is a picture.
 

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Glen":214dfizw said:
pett3227b":214dfizw said:
I am definitely using the copper stuff on my head gasket and head bolt threads.
Click to expand...
Hi,
They have said on here to not use the copper spray on the head bolt threads.
The head bolt threads need Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket on them, it is a non hardening liquid.
If you buy one, stir it before using it, it can settle in the can sitting.
Below is a picture.
Click to expand...
Use that stuff on your two piece Johnson Evinrude lower units as well!! That stuff is like alien snot!! The only thing that cleans it up is alcohol, MAKE sure you have some on hand. That stuff is good stuff cause it's gas resistant!
 
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