Front mounted spray tank

I’ll do that. I have decided I’m going to mount a 15 gallon tank on the front just because that seems to be the most common size sold as spot sprayers and therefore I can buy one cheap. I am planning on just a couple of nozzles mounted to my cultivator arms so I can spray right in the row while I cultivate and let the herbicide get the weeds that the cultivator can’t get close enough to. It will probably be this fall before I have time to get it built but I will certainly follow up with the good, the bad, and the ugly of whatever I end up with.
 
You can purchase a boom for the 12 volt, FIMCO, 15 gallon sprayer tank.

I have a 15 gallon FIMCO tank and boom. Owned, guessing 30 years. Only had to replaced the electric pump.
 
That depends on what you are spraying. I can easily go through 30 gallons of water and roundup spraying road edges, field edges and around my ponds in a single round of spraying at my farm. And that’s all spraying with a single nozzle spray wand. When I’m spraying grass killer in my clover food plots with a boom I can spray way more than that. With that being said I’m going to use the cub mounted sprayer in my vegetable gardens and most of the time 15 gallons will be plenty.
 
I believe Sonny means that 15 gallons is plenty to be carrying on the front not how much is needed to do a job. That obviously depends on the job at hand.
 
Barnyard I’m sure you are correct. Sorry about that Sonny. I would love to go organic but here in NC with our long growing season I have not been able to make that work, not even in my smaller garden in town and definitely not at my farm. I know I don’t need to keep all the weeds out but pigweed, Johnson grass, and Bermuda are too pervasive to control with cultivation only. If you have any secrets how to make it work I’ll love to here them
 
Mht":s85yqchh said:
I would love to go organic but here in NC with our long growing season I have not been able to make that work, not even in my smaller garden in town and definitely not at my farm. I know I don’t need to keep all the weeds out but pigweed, Johnson grass, and Bermuda are too pervasive to control with cultivation only.
Not an option in the Ozark hill country either Trying to eliminate or set back invasive species: several types of thistle, eastern red cedar, honey locusts, and MULTI-FLORAL ROSE.

What I do know is that I can spot herbicide spray and kill individual plants. Let more desireable plants repalce them. If I don't herbicide spray, the invasive species will rapidly take completely over the acreage.
 
That sounds like my situation with Johnson grass. If you mow it you spread seeds, if you plow it you spread rhizomes, if you don’t do anything it spreads on it own. Even spraying it takes several years to get it out of a field and then you still have to stay on top of it or it will return. Kudzu is easier than Johnson grass to get rid of
 
Mht":2gwgflsk said:
Barnyard I’m sure you are correct. Sorry about that Sonny. I would love to go organic but here in NC with our long growing season I have not been able to make that work, not even in my smaller garden in town and definitely not at my farm. I know I don’t need to keep all the weeds out but pigweed, Johnson grass, and Bermuda are too pervasive to control with cultivation only. If you have any secrets how to make it work I’ll love to here them

I have thistle you could borrow some of ...... For two three years I gained the battle manually , then things came up , as did more thistles.

I don't spray. (Ya , it's tempting.)
A guy elsewhere uses a "wiper" to brush weed tops with herbicide. Kinda like a horizontal round wick.
That's dependent on crop , but most of the variety he is growing , the weeds get a jump in spring so are taller and make for good targets.
 
I know all about the tall weeds. I cultivated silver queen corn a week ago. The corn was 18 inches tall and the Johnson grass was higher than the hood on the my cub. The Johnson grass was so thick it would wrap around the cultivator shanks and lift them out of the ground.
 
Mht":av5pz3po said:
I know all about the tall weeds. I cultivated silver queen corn a week ago. The corn was 18 inches tall and the Johnson grass was higher than the hood on the my cub. The Johnson grass was so thick it would wrap around the cultivator shanks and lift them out of the ground.

You're up against an extra nasty there.
Long durability in the soils seed bank type seeds , and (!) rhizomes.
 
That’s for sure. Seeds can remain viable for 20 years and every time you cut a rhizome in half with tillage you’ve created two plants. Plowing the rhizomes up to the surface in the fall can help if we get lucky enough to get a good hard freeze in the winter and killing in June with roundup before seeds mature can help but no garden crops are roundup ready so you almost have to just fight the grass and not plant crops for a couple of years to get it under control. And I don’t think it will ever be possible to completely eradicate it because of the long term seed viability.
 
The downtime , labor,fuel,and crop out of production would hurt trying to eradicate seed in bank.

Letting it sprout before spraying , letting it sprout again and spraying . Well , you know....
At least if the foliage is killed it will stress the roots. I never had Johnson grass but imagine tilling would cheer up the rhizomes.

I have planted miscanthus gigantus.(sp.) for screening by using rhizomes. Not supposed to seed viably. And hasn't. I've left it to fight it's way unattended except for a couple pruned spots.
Going on five years and the rhizomes have not gone far. Or I'd dig and divide it. (By age it should be losing vigor without dividing it.)
Barely bloomed last year, so this year might tell more if it's fading.
I expected it to try to spread more.
Of course if you want it too , vs don't want it to....L.o.l..
 
Field bindweed up here!

Looks like morning glory!

It has the rhizome roots...... cut the root in 4 pieces and get 4 plants!


I remember one year, with the help of my then new 6' tiller, I infected a small 1/3 acre plot. When I would cultivate that years sweet corn, each row I would have to stop to clear off the bindweed vines from the cultivators!

The next year I tilled it with the tiller, and every time I would see some sprouting in the field I tilled it again.

Before Fall, I did not see much!

In small areas I take, and after tillage when it sprouts again, I dig it up with a shovel and extract the plant and roots, then burn them!

I've read where pigs in a area with field bindweed will root it out!
 
Story time since we are into killing weeds.

Central Iowa. Grandmother wanted morning glories to decorate the farm house flower beds. Grandfather told her not to. Grandmother planted them. For the next 30 years until they left the farm, Grandpa walked the corn rows spraying morning glories
 
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