Front blade FINISHED painted and mounted

J

John Niekamp

501 Club
Bright and early today I painted and assembled the "New and Improved(I hope)" McCormick-Deering front/mid mount balde.

Here are the final pics I was asked to post when it was painted and mounted on the tractor. I basically tired to copy the 54A from pictures from TM web site. It not a duplicate, but very similar. There are two bent "U" shape pieces that go underneath the lift arms and I have not receive them from our warehouse yet.

S3010006.jpg


Here are a few pictures of how I built my assembly. Very few pieces was left over from the original design. The blade, mounting brackets and rear bracing was all I really used.

The the bow or yoke:
TOP http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/jni ... 010001.jpg
BOTTOM http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/jni ... 010002.jpg

For the trip sping, I took a piece of 3/8" hot roll plate and drilled several holes in line for any extra adjustment. (since I had no clue what this actaully looked likeI I just had a couple of pictures thanks to Larry Davis (Buzzard Wing) sent to me.


The lift arms:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/jni ... 010005.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/jni ... 010003.jpg

Adjustable Blade lifting link with spring

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/jni ... 010004.jpg

NOTE: this spring isn't the same thing the Cub actually used on the 54A blade, but it will have to work until I find one.

You will see that the lifting arms have 1-1/2 in 1/4 wall DOM tubing for the pivot shaft to go through and anything that pivots have grease zerks. There is two square headed set scews on the pivot bracket so the shaft can not move and the lift arms will pivot at the point where I have installed the grease zerks. Also by using the set screw there was no need of using the cotter pins in the ends of the shaft. I used 1" stressproof for my pivot shaft.

This is a picture of the blade when I first purchsed the tractor from E.J.P. back in March of this year.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/jni ... 4rusty.jpg

And these are some more pictures of the final installation:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/jni ... 010008.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/jni ... 010010.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/jni ... 010011.jpg

I have my weights all installed, now the blade is finished.

SO with that all being said all I can say now is come on mother nature.....BRING IT ON and show me what you can dish out :!: :!: :!:

OK, forgive me I was just kidding, I didn't really mean that. :cry:

John Niekamp
 
John,
That's one sharp looking blade! It's a shame to get it all dirty and scuffed up....but then it wouldn't be any fun just to sit and look at it! Niced job.
 
This is a picture of the blade when I first purchsed the tractor from E.J.P. back in March of this year.
Click to expand...

WOW John. Hard to believe that's the same tractor. That thing is beautiful. Great job. Hope there's room in the heated garage for it. Rick
 
Good Job. It looks great. Would someone who didnt have a machine shop be able to make one. all we have is a blade and nothing else
 
Scotty D":pa29odi3 said:
Good Job. It looks great. Would someone who didnt have a machine shop be able to make one. all we have is a blade and nothing else
Click to expand...

Scotty,

NO, you don't need a machine shop or even a fab shop. You already have the part that would be the hardest to build from scratch. The rolled up blade itself.

I have see some really nice fabrication done with no more than a mere hack-saw, torch, drill motor and a stick welder. It just takes more time, but the end results are the same.

I have been really spolied having the machines and equipment at my disposal for the past 20 years. (one of the main reasons I don't want to change jobs, LOL) With CNC controlled lathes, mills, torches and oil field engine lathes with 20 feet between centers. I can build or repair just about anything I would ever need for my own use.

Don't be afraid of trying to build your blade mounts with what you have. You'll do fine and remember your dad will be there to help you out as well.

Rick,

Yup it's the same ole Cub, but I didn't go to nuts with the paint job. As you could tell she was pretty rough starting out, but the old gal was in good shape mechanically. You get up close you can tell there are still a lot of rust pits on the hood and someday I will take it back off and do it up right. I am NOT a painter or body person what so ever and despise it terribly bad. The main thing I was after was getting it painted to stop the rust and to make he somewhat presentable. After all, it's my working tractor and the first time I took it out in the woods I got a scratch in the hood from a low branch. Oh well it's a tractor right :?:

John
 
John:

Top flight :!: :D

Need I say anymore :?: :?:

Well Done -
congrats.gif
. Looks really super. I like the black cutting edge too :!: Good idea :idea: :!: :D
 
Looks great John. Also looks like you have a "NEW" cutting edge on the blade. What is that bolt for in the center just above the center cutting edge bolt in the red area?.
 
johnbron":2l0zpzbp said:
Looks great John. Also looks like you have a "NEW" cutting edge on the blade. What is that bolt for in the center just above the center cutting edge bolt in the red area?.
Click to expand...

Thanks johnbron,

On the back side of the blade there is a bracket that attaches to the center of the yoke, the blade needs to pivot at this point to change the horizitonal angle of the blade. (This is probably used more for grading than for moving snow) What you do is take out the two outside pins and pivot the blade where you want it and then reinstall the outside pins to lock the blade into that angle position. The center bracket just keeps the blade from falling off when moving.

Well at least this is what I think the reason is and it makes logical sense to me, lol.

John
 
John:

That looks great!

I hope my cub(and my blade) one day are in such nice shape.

Anyeway, you may already know this, but I believe the spring you are looking for is identical to the seat post spring, if that helps any.
 
I ask for a finial & I got a pic that is mind blowing.
That is one great job Jniekamp!!!!!!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Better look out now I hear BD is looking for a show only cub :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
 
Very nice job on the Cub AND the blade. Since I call myself a fabricator :D , I am planning on building a snow plow blade from the blade and steel goodies I have already collected. It is nice to see another detail besides the one on the TM website. Be careful what you wish for with regards to snow but I'm sure we all look forward to finding out how it performs.
 
Tom:

Ifn you do fabricate one, please document with pics, sketches and such if you think it would be a possible.

I think it would be nice to have another blade design to go along with what is already on the server.

There are a couple other sketches that are being formatted to upload..

Let us know what you decide to do..
 
Thanks guys for all your compliments, I am very pleased with the outcome. I was a little hesitant at first when I first got working on it, not really knowing what it was suppose to be like, just sorta a guess. Like I said the basic design was from TM's website, they were a great help.

Rudi has some pictures and skectches of his blade that he built on his server. I really liked his idea on taking advantage of the rear axel housing to mount it too. I was going to build one just like it before I purchased "Kroil Express" from Mr. E.J.P. (he was the one that came up with that name, lol) and it came with this original blade design.

Again thanks and happy fabricating !!!!!!

John
 
Yow did that come out nice!

Makes me want to move mine from the outside of the garage to the inside,m but I can't cause there is a red (or soon to be red) tractor in there.

As always, excellent work John! And thanks for the pictures.
 
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