Free float 54 grader blade?

[ShawnAgne]

Was just plowing some snow in my gravel drive which isn't comlpetely flat and I was digging down into it . So was wondering is it possible to free float the grader blade so it doesn't have forced down pressure on it? I'm assuming so just a matter of where to put the chain. Advice would be appreciated.

 

[RUSSALL]

You can’t put it in float but you can add a flexible clevis.


Russ

 

[tnestell]

You can’t put it in float but you can add a flexible clevis.


Russ

My thought.

 

[ShawnAgne]

You can’t put it in float but you can add a flexible clevis.


Russ

Thanks that is what I meant by float, realize the hydraulics don't do float. How/what can I do it?

 

[RUSSALL]

I thought there was a mechanical drawing of the flexible clevis on here. I can’t find it. Maybe someone else can help.


Russ

 

[Gary S.]

TM tractor parts is your friend when looking for pictures of implements http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gim/clevis_001.htm

 

[MiCarl]

I thought there was a mechanical drawing of the flexible clevis on here. I can’t find it. Maybe someone else can help.


Russ

It's on page 8 of the leveling and grader blade manual, part #4. That's where it details the extension plate. Did the clevis come with the extension plate?

Would be pretty easy to make one. Could even just use a piece of chain.

 

[inairam]

the clevis is in quicklinks, pdf manuals, member made diagrams

 

[Barnyard]

 

[Nelson 634]

Correct position for plowing snow is the bottom hole on the blade. Not in any other hole. In that position it is positioned to scrape and not dig in. But as mentioned earlier the flexible clevis or extension plate needs to be used.
I would also mention, Ricky Racer has a modified cub blade to the more modern fold down or collapsing blade. When you hit a small obstacle it folds down and rides right over. Might do a search for that. I to have a gravel drive and the wheel horse with the fold down blade works nice. But I like using the cub even though it is a little more challenging. Walter

 

[Bob McCarty]

Does your blade have the shoes on it?

 

[Urbish]

Or you can skip all of that and use a chain in place of the lifting frame.

 

[ajhbike]

Jim...you sent me a pic once of that set up...I believe the connecting arm to the rock shaft was disconnected and a chain went from the rock shaft to to top of the 2 arms...it took away the down pressure. Still got the pic for Shawn?

Otherwise, I agree that the plow has to be pitched forward on the bottom hole so the snow rolls over

 

[ShawnAgne]

Or you can skip all of that and use a chain in place of the lifting frame.

Sorry for ignorance but which part is the lifting frame?

My 54 doesn't have the vertical spring that the 54A has so where would I mount the cleavis?

As far as the "bottom" hole are you referring to the holes on the blade itself that control pitch angle?

 

[Urbish]

Or you can skip all of that and use a chain in place of the lifting frame.

Sorry for ignorance but which part is the lifting frame?

The circled A-frame part in the attached picture. Some people use a triangle of chains instead of the lifting frame. This may cause your blade to bounce and will remove all down-force from the tractor. Might make it hard to peel up packed snow if that's a concern. Note that the blade in the picture is a L54 mounted on a standard Cub which is why it is angled downward so far.

As far as the "bottom" hole are you referring to the holes on the blade itself that control pitch angle?

I think he was referring to the holes in the lifting frame for the 54A which has two different holes you can use at the top of the lifting frame. Since you have a 54, you only have one hole.

You can and should check which hole the bolt is through underneath the plow where the spring mounts to the plow frame. There are three holes. Use the one that pitches the top of the plow forward, making the cutting edge sit almost perpendicular to the ground. This will help to keep the blade from digging in as much. You run it in the opposite position for grading or terracing as it makes the blade take slices of dirt or gravel.

 

[Urbish]

Jim...you sent me a pic once of that set up...I believe the connecting arm to the rock shaft was disconnected and a chain went from the rock shaft to to top of the 2 arms...it took away the down pressure. Still got the pic for Shawn?

Otherwise, I agree that the plow has to be pitched forward on the bottom hole so the snow rolls over

This may be the post you were referring to that shows a chain lift setup. Note that I do not recommend using a chain lift for the aforementioned reasons, but if it works for you that's great!

http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=95074

 

[ShawnAgne]

Thanks every one just got in from 3.5 hours of plowing (my driveway and the 2 neighbors). I could have done the highway into town as the trucks hadn't been through yet but figured I'd leave that for ODOT. I changed the hole I had the pins in on the blade and that helped some. Will go and check the bolt hole for the spring. I think I need to readjust my boots to.

 

[lowgearfarm]

I've used a chain lift for 40 years - first on gravel, now paved drive. I like the way it scrapes clean. Wore through multiple sets of shoes before deciding to run barefoot (?) on the cutting edge. Wore through multiple cutting edges until I found a willing welder to patch up the old edge every couple of years.

 

[Urbish]

I've used a chain lift for 40 years - first on gravel, now paved drive. I like the way it scrapes clean. Wore through multiple sets of shoes before deciding to run barefoot (?) on the cutting edge. Wore through multiple cutting edges until I found a willing welder to patch up the old edge every couple of years.

:thumbsup:

 

[ricky racer]

I tried using chains to lift the blade thinking it would be a hot set-up. Myself, I didn't like a floating blade. I want to scrape ice and packed snow off of my driveway so I like having down pressure.

I'm sure this chain set up is out in the barn somewhere if anyone is interested in it...